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Booster water pumps

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Texasmark1

Well-known Member
Ok you guys that like to tinker (as I do). Posted the other day about this sprayer "hootus" I made for washing out the decks on my lawnmowers. It's made from ? pvc with 3 caps in which I drilled about 7 ea. ⅛" holes for a spray pattern. I want to see if I can boost the pressure without any big fanfare.

I have a shallow well centrifugal pump of about ? hp that's doing nothing and the thought occurred to me that I might see if I can use it as a booster, thinking along the lines of a 2 stage air compressor where the second stage "gain" is added to the first stage (minus losses of course). The community water supply water pressure, which as stated runs about 60 psig under moderate dynamic conditions would act as the primary pump and the shallow well the booster.

Thoughts/experiences appreciated.

Thanks,
Mark
 
The issue you will encounter is volume. If you use 3/4 or 1 inch hose, and have a similar size supply system to assuer serious flow to the new pump, it should provide pressure. The pipe doing the spray may need to be anchored to keep it in one place. Jim
 
The problem with a shallow well pump is they have a venturi in them to increase suction, but it decreases volume. But you could try it! If you take the venturi out then there is the recirculation passage. There used to be an old fellow at Traut wells in St Cloud that really knew pumps.
 
Texasmark1,I have seen a similar set up to boost pressure that worked great.It was a 7 stage submersible pump inside of a 8" pipe with a gasketed, bolted flange top with the outlet welded into the top plate and the input for the hose with system pressure in the side at the top,so that the inside was pressurized. That thing really had some pressure and volume.
 
A submersible will put out a lot of pressure, depending on the number of stages. If it's pumping from a 200 foot water table it needs 88 psi just to get to the surface and then 60 more to shut off. I think a lot of the bigger pumps will develop 200psi when new.
 
Hey guys, thanks for the interesting replies.

It rained 1 ?" night before last, after raining about every 3 days this spring....plenty of ground moisture. Grass is spring rye primarily....as you know, lots of moisture in the plant. Mowed for about 2 hours this afternoon and when finished got over a small drainage ditch to get the deck off the ground in the middle and stuck the little guy under it, positioning the spray heads just to the rear of the spindles. Turned on the community water with no booster pump, got in the seat, put the PTO on, "pedal to the metal" and in a few minutes and that was that.

Initially you could see the green water coming out the discharge chute but it soon cleared up but I ran it a couple minutes more.

Took it over to the concrete and got down for a look see and she was spotless. Almost like a cylinder/piston crown when you have a head gasket leaking.

Now that I have control of that, I can start mowing in the mornings this summer when it's cool and not worry about compacted grass under the deck and having to jack the mower up to clean it out every time I do.
 
Texasmark1,Do you have grease-able quill/deck bearings if so you need to give them a shot of grease after washing it to purge out any water that is trapped in the bearings.
 
While the mower is clean, try painting the blades and underside of the deck with graphite paint. It will be much easier to clean in the future.
 
Thanks for the idea. When I redid my 2005 DR Pro Z I put on 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of enamel. Then I brushed on a coat of moly in the green can. Don't know if it will stay very long. Course it's in semi retirement now till I figure another use for it.
 
Yes I do. Unlike the car wash when I was a teen working part time at a gas station. There it was change the oil and grease the car then wash. I wash and lube afterward.

Thanks,
 
While I, personally, would not wash the underside of my deck with pressurized water, if this is what you want to do, then consider adding an air inlet to the line. Experiment with a low flow to start with, then continue increasing the air flow until you get the pressure where you want it. That "should" be all the pressure you need.

As air expands so much, it will really give some ooomph to the water going through your "hootus".
 
Interesting concept. Only problem I see is interference with the incoming water. Would need a check valve to prevent it from backing the
water out the line and every # of air pressure would reduce the available water since it would be competing with incoming water pressure
for pipe space. Don't know but it's working as is. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
Air connects to the water line fairly close to point of use - as close as possible. Back pressure from the water keeps the air moving in the correct direction, which is the path of least resistance. It'll make a horrific noise when that air starts coming out, but it'll be the quickest and easiest way to boost the water pressure, assuming you already have an air compressor.

Not sure if it matters whether connecting using a T or a Y, but I think I'd probably use a Y so that the direction of flow is the same for both water and air.
 
Thanks for the explanation and yes I have air. May give it a try just for grins if nothing else. May work so good I'll use it.
 
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