Breaking roller chain?

hayray

Well-known Member
What is the best way to break roller chain, like size 60 or 50 standard. I have a chain brake I bought years ago but when I use it the pin pushes the plate on the other side with it. Maybe I have way too small of a brake? I always end up fighting with the whole roll of chain and grind and use a punch.
 
I lay the chain on it's side with the respective pin over a hole of some type and break it loose with a big drift punch, then drive it out with an appropriate size pin punch, then move on to the next pin. Nothing too it. Sometimes on larger chains I have to grind the head of the pin off but I try to avoid that if at all possible. Done correctly you can drive the pin back in place to rejoin the chain if necessary, then a dab of 7018 on the head to keep it from moving.

Rod
 
I grind the nubs off and then use a power chisel with a punch bit to push the pins back.

Makes short work of 'em.

Allan
 
'ALways fun working with those greasy roller chains huh? Sounds like your chain break is the problem. I grind mine off and use a punch just as the others have stated. Sometimes "intended tools" don't work. THe "greasy" part is what gets me. I"ve started wearing surgical gloves each time I have to repair the roller chains on my skidsteer. Often times I'll use the long sleeves that go up to my shoulder. 'Work especially well whenever I"ve got a chain that's 8-10ft long. Losing the cotter pins is a problem too. I"ll tie a long small strand of plastic baler twine to the cotter pin before I take it out....sure makes it easier to find whenever I (and I always do) drop it.
 
You're gonna need to take out both pins in the link; just push the other one also and let it take the 'plate' out with them. Have never seen a chain breaker that didn't work like that.
 
Rod, another way to do it if you don't happen to have a hole handy (LOL) is to put a small socket under the chain and then just whack the end of the pin with the hammer. When you're trying to balance the chain on top of a socket you don't have a third hand to hold the drift. I know, you guys will cringe about using a small socket, but when there isn't anything else to use and the $300,000 combine is sitting still just because of a two bit chain, you do it the quickest way you can. Jim
 
I always lay the chain out over heavy plate with a hole in it. Use a big enough hammer and take one swing to start. That will stat it, then pin punch it out, that easy.
 
I've got to be honest... when I get to the point where a chain is breaking... it goes in the scrap pile. It might break once. After that it's gone unless I just can't get a new length at the time. I've wasted more time than enough fixing junk chain only to wear the sprockets out anyway... so now I mostly just change it. Only time I need to shorten a chain is on the bench before it goes to the machine. If it does break on the machine I sometimes drive the pins out right on the sprocket, then fix with a repair (connector) link or offset.
I used to go through a lot of 100H on a Degleman rock rake... all running in a gear lube bath. The black flies that stuff attracts... ohhh I still hate thinking about it.

Rod
 
SERIOUSLY, HOW can ANYONE have problems with a tool as simple as a roller chain breaker?

I've dealt with this stuff since my pre-teen years and am 52 now and have NEVER not been able to undo a roller chain with a chain breaker. WHAT gives with you guys?
 
If I can't find a handy hole, I open the jaws of a vice a little bit and put the chain link across the gap. Like Fixerupper's method, you do need three hands :)
 

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