I have an exhaust manufold stud that has broken off below the surface of the manifold. Manifold is still on the truck, in a tight location. Is it possible to burn the stud out using an ox/acet torch without damaging the manifold? I have never tried this. I do not think it will be possible to weld a nut on it or drill it very easily due to the tight location. Thanks for your help!
- Thread starter TwinCreek
- Start date
Sounds like the back manifold bolt on a 5.4L ford. Metal tab under the manifold rattles till it warms up and expands.
I tried welding a nut but it wouldn't hold. Next step is to get a right angle drill and drill it with a right or left hand bit, then try an ez out.
I might have been money ahead to have left the welded nut on it. Or tack weld a short stud/bolt and add some washers.
I tried welding a nut but it wouldn't hold. Next step is to get a right angle drill and drill it with a right or left hand bit, then try an ez out.
I might have been money ahead to have left the welded nut on it. Or tack weld a short stud/bolt and add some washers.
Easy Out means just that: If it doesn't come out easy, remove the Easy Out and try something else. I have a Kohler engine that had a 3/8" head bolt broken off. Someone drilled a small hole off center and used a 1/8" ☐ Easy Out. Half of it broke off 3/8" below the surface. How do you remove a broken off Easy Out????
Thats a ford. Probably use the same studs that the 5.4L uses which is common on the 5.4L I read. Probably a service bulletin cause it's the shops that tell me what the rattle is. I have the fender well off and give them a shot of WD every so often. The others are pretty well rusted and I suspect will break off too. The shops I've talked to only give open ended quotes since they don't know what all they will have to do. If it didn't run ok as is, I'd tear into it. May try to weld a fender washer on it and then a nut.
Easy outs work only on a bolt that's not seized.
Welding up a stud or bolt that is broke off flush or below the surface,and then welding a washer to it with a nut welded to the washer gives the best results.
Drilling a broke stud or bolt and retapping is difficult cause it is allmost impossible to keep the drill perfectly centered unless one uses a guide and milling bit.
My 2c
Torching a bolt out of cast iron is an option ony if access is good and one don't burn te truck(or what ever else) down in the process.
Welding up a stud or bolt that is broke off flush or below the surface,and then welding a washer to it with a nut welded to the washer gives the best results.
Drilling a broke stud or bolt and retapping is difficult cause it is allmost impossible to keep the drill perfectly centered unless one uses a guide and milling bit.
My 2c
Torching a bolt out of cast iron is an option ony if access is good and one don't burn te truck(or what ever else) down in the process.
Hobo,NC
Well-known Member
- Location
- Sanford, NC
I have removed quite a few 400 manifolds,,, never had a issue with breaking off bolts in the block,,, may have had a rounded head are 2,,, a twist socket are a metric socket took care if it... Its not as bad as it looks...
352,360 and 390's are a different story :twisted:
352,360 and 390's are a different story :twisted:
Brian Jasper co. Ia
Well-known Member
The 4.0 is known for the bolts breaking off if you try to remove the manifold. The 400M actually used bolts sized for the purpose, unlike the 5.4 and other overhead cam V8's and 10.
Bob Collins
Well-known Member
I have used a product called a "Clamp-A-Stud" on broken exhaust manifold studs, it looks like a shallow C-clamp. Made of forged steel it clamps the pipe to the manifold from the 'outside' so to speak. They come in three sizes and are kind of expensive, but quick and strong. DAMHIKT but use a stainless hose clamp to hold it to the pipe after installation just in case it wants to fall off. Made in USA by Nickson Co. Just my 2 pennies worth.
Hobo,NC
Well-known Member
- Location
- Sanford, NC
trucker 40
Member
If its real hard to get to you might want to take it to a muffler shop that can weld a stud on the manifold.I had that done one time.They have a hollow stud and some attachment for a MIG welder that welds the stud though the hollow inside to where it broke off from.You cant tighten it as tight,but it can be tightened enough to stop it from leaking.On my truck it never leaked after that and I drove it to work every day for a couple of years.They did use a torque wrench on it so they didnt over tighten it.It only took a few minutes after he ground it off flat with the manifold.Then he clamped it on somehow and welded it.It took longer to weld it than the rest of it did.
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