Building a Line (Compressor)

Hey guys...

Ive been thinking about it, and before i try to track down parts for this thing, haul it to a compressor shop (thanks for the info, everyone), etc, id like to try building a line for it.

Im talking about the copper tube that goes from the pump, to the tank. It had this copper tube there, but one of the fittings blew when i plugged the unloader valve, and i dont really want to bend it back. I bought a parts compressor off craigslist, and the line off that is about half an inch too short...

Im thinking i could get some black iron pipe, and come up with an assembly like the one in the other picture.

Im not the greatest welder, but if copper tube would do the job, i bet my welds can too.

Im thinking 7018 for this, because its for a static load.

Is there any reason why this wont work?? Im assuming that copper was used because it is thin, and will let heat out. But if i dont let heat out, then i might just have some warmer air coming out my hose, and i might just have to drain the water out of the tank a little more, right??

Or will this blow up and kill me, or something else that would suck??

Looking at this copper line on here has always kind of scared me for some reason. I guess its because its out in the open, and i saw what happened with the little unloader line. That much force behind something bigger, that would be like a grenade if it went bang.

Before the fitting blew, i was accually planning on buying some 1/4 inch plate, and welding it to the top "shelf" of the compressor, so that if it blew, it would blow up, not out.

I guess im paranoid a little, but whatever.

Any ideas here?? Thanks guys

And some updates:
Today, with a helpful tree, a come along,a couple chains, and most of the afternoon, i managed to get alot of my junk into the back of the dakota. Its capacity is 1450lbs, and weve got to be pretty close to that. But its in, and im taking it to the scrap yard today. Thanks everyone, i decided to just take cast this first trip. I also made a pretty cool video about it.

I also looked around, and found the frame i need for the S10 for $100 at a local junk yard. So, after i get the "C" finished up, im going to work on that.

And oh yea, the C. Its in my shop, waiting on me to finish this compressor and sandblast and paint it.

The unloader line i picked up off the parts unit looks like it will work, if i drill a new hole in the top "shelf" of the compressor.

Lanse, as one of the other guys told you, the brass fitting at the tank end is a one-way check valve that allows air to flow INTO the tank but NOT back towards the compressor, and it MUST be defective, damaged, or plugged, causing a MASSIVE pressure buildup in the compressor "head" and piping to the tank and unloader valve to blow up the unloader line and force the copper air line out of it's fittings!

There is DEFINITELY something like that wrong, now figure out what it is and FIX IT BEFORE powering up the compressor again!

(That copper line IS strong enough for WAY more pressure than the "working pressure" of your single-stage compressor.)

<img src = "http://images.grainger.com/B309_43/images/products/250x250/6X213_AS01.JPG">

You need to replace the check valve, then simply put a new ferrule on the copper tube and put it back in place. There's NO need to "reinvent the wheel" with new iron plumbing.

PLEASE have someone who understands compressors have a look at it before you "finish it off" or get hurt.

Below is a link to a valve like you need or VERY similar to it (they have other sizes, if you need a different size or style) at Grainger.
Tank check valve

Lanse I highly suggest you[b:24052f04b7] [u:24052f04b7]don't[/u:24052f04b7][/b:24052f04b7] do[b:24052f04b7] [u:24052f04b7]any[/u:24052f04b7] [/b:24052f04b7]welding on that or any other compressor tank! You are not ready for this! Do a quick search on Google for compressor accidents, you'll see what I mean! :shock:

FYI, the copper tubing you buy in rolls from Home Depot or Lowes is generally rated at 600-PSI.

Alright...

Thanks bob!!

How are those things measured?? Would you happen to know?? I dont want to wait around for a new one, just to have to send it back.

Im going to call a few local places around here today, and see if i can find this stuff...

We have compressor shops around here where you can get anything you want. I'm not so sure you can weld copper, but I could be wrong. It's so cheap to buy what you need, why bother?

As a structural engineer, I second the DO NOT WELD on any part of the compressor. While it is a quasi-static load (there is some dynamic loading from the compressor running), it is a cyclical load. Cyclical loading + Weld= Fatigue. Fatigue == BOOM. It takes special training, and possibly special equipment to weld pressure vessels.

If you can figure out who the manufacturer is I would personally get a new OEM part.

Lanse, the threads that go onto the tank are "iron pipe size"... if it matches 1/2" pipe fittings, it's 1/2", for example.

The top fitting matches "CTS" copper tube size... if your copper line matches 1/2" CTS, it's 1/2", for example.

If your's has other sizes or combinations, they are out there as well.

The little plug is 1/8" and gets removed to connect your unloaded back up... IMPORTANT so the compressor "unloads" at shutdown, taking off the pressure so the motor can rapidly start it when air is needed.

Lance, you are making this way too complicated. Get that compressor to someone who knows what they're doing and you will have a good working unit in no time.

Glenn F.

Lanse, go to a compressor shop and get a diagram of how everything hooks up and talk in person to someone who knows compressors. Don't weld on any part of the compressor or the motor mounting plate. The whole thing is considered a pressure vessel. Even on larger pressure vessels a certified pressure welder has to weld the minor little things on, like the name tag with all the specs. or ladder clips etc. Sooner or later you're going to try and do something that you aren't sure what you're doing, and be seriously injured. A compressor for example, could kill you if it blew apart. You're not being paranoid. You're being impatient and trying to save money. Talk to someone with experience and knowledge before you proceed. Then you could have a good safe compressor. Dave

your compressor is a husky right, tractor supply... I had to pick up one about a 16 months ago..about 31 dollars...

You dont want to weld on a pipe,or the tank.If black pipe will hook up,so will copper.Like others said its something about that valve is defective or that line wouldnt blow off.There are splices for copper line,but a new piece of copper line from a hardware store is probably a lot less money than a 4 dollar splice.Then you can get 2 ferrules and 2 nuts for copper line and have what you need.Then with a new valve for the tank you should be set.

Lanse,

I have a son a year or two older than you are, and reading your posts makes me frightened. People here are trying to be encouraging of a young man with mechanical curiosity which I think is great, but if you were my son, this one is where I would draw the line.

DO NOT weld on any part of this tank, the associated piping, or anything within 15 feet of it, including scrap on the floor. Your skills are worlds away from sufficient to this task.

Get a new check valve for it and replace the copper line like-for-like with soft copper and compression fittings as suggested below. Quit plugging, taping, vise-gripping and otherwise jacking around and fix the blasted thing right or junk it. Compressed air and overpressure are a deadly combination.

While you're at it, and since you have a driver's license, why don't you get down to the nearest community college for some courses in welding, plumbing, and/or electricity? Two weeks with somebody who knows what they're doing will teach you more than two years of jacking around on the internet.

Try to stay alive,

Oxford

Lanse, read what Oxford posted. Then read it again. Then take his suggestion and do it. Hate to see you get hurt or worse over this compressor. The courses he recommended will be beneficial to you for the rest of your life.

Great advice Oxford and the others have given you.

You can weld Copper and Brass with a rod called Phos-Copper. You use a gas flame.
As for the copper line between the compressor and the tank check valve, I have NEVER had any luck replacing them. I always get them bent the wrong way when hooking up. They then over time work harden and break. I buy Stratoflex line and fittings for my connections between the compressor and tank check valve.

Kent