Ok guys--I need your yelling at me "JUST DO IT" if that is what you think. Got a 1952 side dist. 8-N. Overall a very clean and nice 8-N I primarily use to mow 1/2 mile roadsides in front of our place on both sides in the summer. It does not smoke, use oil, knock or any of that stuff. BUT--it starts hard, starts slow. Carb has been overhauled, it had a new gas tank last year, sediment bowl, very nice clean fuel now. Plugs, wires, and dist. is timed and adjusted correctly. My battery is getting near replacement time, I'm thinking serious of conversion to 12 volts. If I buy a kit here on YT, will I get instructions adequate enough to do the job myself? Not a true wrench here, but can squeak by usually if I get dirty and do it. Let me know if YT's kit will walk me through, and get this done without some 60 dollar shop time up the road from me. As usual, grateful for your advise.
 

I have two 8Ns and use them year around - both are 6 volts and do not give me trouble. Since you are only mowing grass and not plowing snow I don't see the need for going to 12 volts. Also, per your post the tractor is in good shape and you didn't mention any problems charging.

Yes, you need a battery so that is a wash cost wise, 6 or 12 volts. If it turns very slow you may need a starter - in which case you would also be buying a starter after going to 12 volts.

If you want 12 volts then that is your option. If you follow this forum long you will see changing to 12 volts is not always as simple as many people tend to claim. Many have problems mating their coil to 12 volts, 6 volt starters can break drives/flywheel teeth....operating on 12 volts, then you have the lights.....

Just my opinion.
 
Let me know if YT's kit will walk me through

Yes. It's some wiring, an alternator, poorly written instructions, and a resistor so you can use the 6v coil. I would recommend going to a full 12v round can coil so you can eliminate the resistor block entirely. JMOR's wiring diagrams are a very helpful resource.

Now if you actually NEED to go to 12v is what you have to decide. My choice to go to 12v on my Ns was simply because the two I own needed a full wiring overhaul anyhow and one had both a bad battery and coil so it was an easy choice.
 
I think I like your answer the best so far, I will look for a (perhaps) better quality battery than I have now. I'll also check the compression too, maybe it's wore out and I don't know it. I think it should start quicker and easier than it does.
 
I have a 1948 8N that is converted to 12 volt and pertronix electronic ignition. I bought the coil topper doohickey that enables me to use a round coil and bought the recommended, on this site, true 12 volt coil from NAPA. I am still running the wire to and through the ford factory resister. Was running OK for a very short while, then would start and run for a shorter time, and now will just barely fire and then die. I have been busy with other projects, and haven't checked it out, but was sort of suspecting a gasoline problem. Any thoughts?
 
" I will look for a (perhaps) better quality battery than I have now. I'll also check the compression too"

Makes good sense to me too. Plenty of folks have done 12 volt conversions only to find they still had the same problem due to a dragging starter, poor compression or bad cables.
75 Tips
 
Sounds to me like a leave it 6v tractor. As already stated, you need a new battery. I would stick with 6v any day as I like to keep things as original as possible. need a new starter, you need it whether you change to 12v or leave it 6v.
 

My two are still 6 volt and work fine. They can be a little more sensitive to dirty grounds and bad wiring. Most of the ones I have seen that don't start well on 6 volt is because of poor wiring condition.

However the side mount is very easy to convert to 12 volts since you can simply replace the coil with a 12 volt coil. This is what Hobo means by born to be converted. The front mounts are require some extra steps because of the square 6V coil. Most people go to 12V negative ground so they can use an alternator and so it is consistent with other vehicles. It is a personal decision. A well maintained 6V system works fine, but you have a generator that needs polarized periodically. They are a little harder to jump, etc.

You can jump a 6 volt with a 12 volt and see how it cranks. Just disconnect the starter. Then go directly to the starter and ground with the 12 Volt and start the tractor. That will give you an idea how it will crank on 12 V.

Good luck.
 
(quoted from post at 04:00:15 05/28/16)


......"You can jump a 6 volt with a 12 volt and see how it cranks. Just disconnect the starter. Then go directly to the starter and ground with the 12 Volt and start the tractor. That will give you an idea how it will crank on 12 V.

Good luck.

Interesting point.
 
Any tractor I purchase with 6 volt gets changed to 12 volt as soon as possible. Several reasons. 6 volt batteries are more expensive than what's needed for most tractors in 12 volt. Better starting in cold weather, I'm not talk +20, I'm talking -20F (most who claim their 6 volt tractor starts great in the cold have never lived where temps get below zero much less -20. The alternator is much more reliable and cheaper to replace if needed. Compatibility with all my other 12 volt systems if a jump is needed either way. And finally the last 2 battery chargers I have purchased won't even charge 6 volt. One is a roll away unit that was over 200 dollars. I can't think of a single reason for keeping anything I own 6 volt. Not one.

Rick
 
My biggest problem with the 6V systems is finding good voltage
regulators. They seem to be junk now and they are expensive.
I don't have any problems with a 6V system starting though.

Here's a quick, 22 second, video of my 9N starting cold.
Cold being first start of the day, not -20F. I'm in Michigan
and it will start reliably when really cold but not this quickly.

That tractor is still 6V today. Many of my others are 12V.
Again, not for starting issues but charging issues.
Starting issues are more likely due to a bad/weak battery,
corroded connections/cables, low compresion or a weak starter.

YouTube
 

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