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12V Conversion problem

R

redbelly1948

New User
Hello all,

Seem to be having an issue with converting my 1948 8N to a single wire alternator. Got the kit and followed the instructions to a tee, but....

First off when I bought her from the original owner she did not have keys and they direct wired from the coil to a "Pull on & off switch." The Amp meter was not connected and I have no lights as of yet installed. The "Pull on & off switch" was also wired to the existing resistor at the junction. NOTHING else was wired to the existing resistor. (original set up image attached)

Tried wiring using the existing 6V coil direct to the old resistor and when I connected the battery...Sparks and Smoke! No good. Then added the additional resistor and it did the same.

Since there was NO Amp meter connected at first, I did make sure to switch the wires as directed from the instructions.

Cant find ANYTHING on this problem. PLEASE HELP!!

Cheers,
 
RedBelly, welcome to the forum!
Obviously the wiring isn't right, so I would fix that first.
Google "wiring diagrams by JMOR".
He has made some very easy to understand pictograms of
just exactly how to hook up your 12V conversion.

If you use the 6V coil, you need the extra resistor.
If you use a 12V coil you can eliminate the extra, but still need
the original ballast resistor in the correct location.
 
(quoted from post at 13:55:59 01/10/16) RedBelly, welcome to the forum!
Obviously the wiring isn't right, so I would fix that first.
Google "wiring diagrams by JMOR".
He has made some very easy to understand pictograms of
just exactly how to hook up your 12V conversion.

If you use the 6V coil, you need the extra resistor.
If you use a 12V coil you can eliminate the extra, but still need
the original ballast resistor in the correct location.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your wisdom sir. I will see what I might have done. On another note, do you think it could be because of having a keyless switch? Just a thought. Thanks again!
 
If the switch is hooked up where the key switch used to go,
then no. It would perform the same function and not cause
an issue as far as the running/working goes.
It might be easily bumped or something, but it works the same.
 

I'll give it a go! I did notice that the diagram does not show the additional resistor if I am using the original 6V coil. I'm assuming that I can go off the instructions that I have from the kit to add the resistor as you said. Thanks!
 
(quoted from post at 17:21:28 01/10/16)
I'll give it a go! I did notice that the diagram does not show the additional resistor if I am using the original 6V coil. I'm assuming that I can go off the instructions that I have from the kit to add the resistor as you said. Thanks!
Click to expand...
have many diagrams out there......pick the right one for your tractor & your desires on metering, harness, etc.
 
(quoted from post at 14:45:43 01/10/16)
(quoted from post at 17:21:28 01/10/16)
I'll give it a go! I did notice that the diagram does not show the additional resistor if I am using the original 6V coil. I'm assuming that I can go off the instructions that I have from the kit to add the resistor as you said. Thanks!
Click to expand...
have many diagrams out there......pick the right one for your tractor & your desires on metering, harness, etc.
Click to expand...
I posted images of what your diagram is telling me. Still burning out the battery terminal. ?
 
31713.jpg
 
Are the wires on your ammeter touching the metal bracket?
They need to be insulated from that or you would get sparks
and smoke as you describe.
You should be able to disconnect and tape them both as a test.
Tractor should run but won't charge the battery.
 

This might help (or confuse)!

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii165/whopist/8NSimpleWiring.jpg

Note: It shows a 12V coil without the second resistor, but you can use the 6V coil with the second resistor.

Good luck!
 

That seems to be the ticket!! Although I need to get a new Amp meter now since the old threads on mine have now been over used. Thanks for the info. Nice to know you are all out there when in a fix!! Cheers!
 
The wires on the amp meter are on the mounting bracket wrong (Dead short to ground), should be 1 wire going thru the loop below that bracket. no hard connection to the meter. Just cut off the ends run wire thru the loop and then splice together.
 
(quoted from post at 19:21:07 01/10/16) Glad to hear you got it going!
Click to expand...
hat is a loop style ammeter. There should be NO wires connected to those mounting screws! ...and don't cut or bend the loop, just thread the wire through it like eye of needle.
 
(quoted from post at 20:12:33 01/10/16)
(quoted from post at 19:21:07 01/10/16) Glad to hear you got it going!
Click to expand...
hat is a loop style ammeter. There should be NO wires connected to those mounting screws! ...and don't cut or bend the loop, just thread the wire through it like eye of needle.
Click to expand...
Yeah I saw that, but he said he needed a new one because the
threads were worn out so I let it go.
The new one will have posts with insulators that match most diagrams.
I only have one loop style left on the place and I don't think it works.
 
(quoted from post at 17:12:33 01/10/16)
(quoted from post at 19:21:07 01/10/16) Glad to hear you got it going!
Click to expand...
hat is a loop style ammeter. There should be NO wires connected to those mounting screws! ...and don't cut or bend the loop, just thread the wire through it like eye of needle.
Click to expand...

I was wondering what that was for. Do I use a 12g wire for that?
 
On that style of ammeter, the wire should just pass through the loop at the bottom instead of being attached to the studs as in the picture. The studs are for mounting only.
 
That would be fine. If meter reads backwards, just thread it through in opposite direction. Since you are negative ground it needs to thread from battery/solenoid, into the loop from outside edge of tractor, through loop and on toward steering box & then to loads.
 
(quoted from post at 17:31:20 01/10/16) That would be fine. If meter reads backwards, just thread it through in opposite direction. Since you are negative ground it needs to thread from battery/solenoid, into the loop from outside edge of tractor, through loop and on toward steering box & then to loads.
Click to expand...

Thanks all for the great direction and knowledge. I did order the replacement from nnalert's. I'll download pics once it's done and ready to go.
 
"what is the resistor block for if everything is 12 volts?"

It has a varying amount of resistance. Near zero when cold and
increases with heat. Effectively that gives you full voltage to the
coil when cold for easy starting and then limits the current when
it warms up so the square can coils don't burn out.
 
(quoted from post at 17:03:12 01/11/16) Not meaning to hijack thread but what is the resistor block for if everything is 12 volts?
Click to expand...
ot in disagreement with Royce, but I will add that 'everything including the coil' is NOT really 12 volt. Most of those so called 12v front mount coils are 2.5 Ohms and if connected w/o a resistor, the current would be 12/2.5 or when charging/running, 13.6/2.5 or somewhere between 4.8 amperes and 5.4 amperes and that is too much current for points as well as coil. A "true" 12v coil will have a higher resistance, typically 3.2 Ohms resulting in current of 12/3.2 up to 13.6/3.2 or around 3.75 to 4.25 amperes. Such a coil is not available for the front mount distributor. Now you want to ask why don't you? I don't want you to get me to lying, but an educated guess is that the housing will not handle the heat. You see, when the coil is used with a resistor the total electrically generated heat is distributed between the resistor & the coil, whereas w/o a resistor, it is all in the coil.
 
(quoted from post at 08:14:53 01/11/16)
That seems to be the ticket!! Although I need to get a new Amp meter now since the old threads on mine have now been over used. Thanks for the info. Nice to know you are all out there when in a fix!! Cheers!
Click to expand...
lot of people replace the amp meter with a volt meter.
 

Okay everyone. Did the conversion, she started up, everything sounded and looked real good. Took her out and 10mins later a puff of smoke came from the left side and she stopped. Tried to restart with no luck. She wants to turn over but no spark. Pushed her back into the garage and now battery dead.

Hoping for some expert advice on what it might be? Going to get new plugs and hope that was the issue.

I don't like smoke!
 
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