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12v conv ?

D

DON TX

Well-known Member
I changed my last 6v to 12. Used an alternator that I had checked good at Oreillys. It started right up and found the charge light stays on when running and off when off.? Checks +14.5v when running, ammeter shows +30+a with full throttle, barely above 0 at idle. The battery may be weak but it spun the starter over fast and I had just taken it off charge when I installed it. It runs rough and smooths out with little choke then runs rough when warm (may be gas?). When I shut it down the ammeter showed slight discharge til I pulled a cable off. What is the problem? I've triple checked the wiring using a diagram shown here regularly. All help appreciated.
DON TX
 
sounds weird.

sounds like a 3 wire also.

ensure the charge lamp goes to #1 and there is a jumper from #2 to charge stud.

there should be NO draw when engine off, key off.

also.. even at idle as low as 400 rpm.. that alt should make SIGNIFICANT amperage.
 
It does have a ground post, is that a 3 wire, grounded to frame. It has P1 going to ammeter with charge light, P2 going to bat stud.
DON TX
 
if it is a delco 10/12si.. there are 3 commections you need.

charge stud to ammeter

#2 to charge stud.

#1 to lamp that is on with key

i question your p1 hookup

also check what alt model you have..
 
I have seen more then one set up with a light bulb do what yours in. Can be caused by the wrong size bulb or some such thing. That is why I use a diode and never have to worry about an idiot light
 
Good chance then that your alternator is about yo go belly up on you. As with any thing electronic it can be tested 100 times and come up ok 99 but then all at once you hit it just right and it says bad. That is why I am no longs an electronics tec. I have learned to hate not being able to hear and see something when it is bad
 
After looking hard (with readers and a flashlight), it is a delco-remy labeled Hasbro rebuild 7101. It looks like the 10si with a ground stud. The blades are facing each other instead of side by side. They are marked R and F The case is the same shape and size as a 10si. It had been working when set on a shelf some time ago. Hard to read the R,F. I assumed it was P1,P2. I have the R going to the ammeter thru the charge lamp. F going to the charge stud. I should've had my reading glasses on. How is this to be wired.
The farsighted--(%^(
DON TX
 
If I wired it wrong, it may be toast. My last post has new info. Like you, I like to be able to listen and look at something and tell by sight and sound if it's broken. Transistors don't do that very often.
DON TX
 
Sounds like you have an alternator with no regulator. Are the R and F posts on the back? I bought a'44 Tuesday in Centerville with one of those, but it has a little solid state regulator mounted on the top mounting bolt. I assume the R and F are for Regulator and Fields.
 
(quoted from post at 01:55:44 02/24/13) If I wired it wrong, it may be toast. My last post has new info. Like you, I like to be able to listen and look at something and tell by sight and sound if it's broken. Transistors don't do that very often.
DON TX
Click to expand...
on, if it looks like this, it is a 10DN & does need the external regulator box. I would dump it and get 10SI with internal regulator. With the R to output connection (if it is a 10DN), it has likely been damaged anyway & is why it continues to draw battery current after everything is turned off.
alt_Delcotron_10DN.jpg
 
Yep and some times you can do things with microchips that should not work but they do. I remember a stereo I worked on and I hit 2 legs of the chip with the test probe and shorted it out and that cause the chip to crack. From that point on the radio played just as it should and did so for who knows how long since the boss said play it a few days and if it keeps working close it up and call the customer
 
If you do have a 10dn there is an add on transistor regulator you can add. It costs as much as a 10si however. Might be money ahead to just switch to a 3wire 10si. The ear spacing and bolt size is the same as what you have. Your parts place might even accept the 10dn as a core, some will. HTH

Mike
 
R & R'd with 10si, drove it around for 10 mins before it kicked in but it is charging and working as advertised on TV. Thanks for all the help.
DON TX
 
#1 will be the field excitation and does need to go thru a lamp.. but not to the ammeter.. it needs to go to a switched source.. like ignition.. otherwise it will ALWAYS stay on and drain the battery.

i bet if you look furthere.. the r and F also has a 1/2 on the other side of the opening onthe case.
 
Don't mean to horn in on your post, but I am going thru the exact same thing. My alt looks just like that. I also have a Moorcraft (22?) w/3 posts: BAT, FLD, & STA. Is this a good replacement, and if so how should the whole system be wired?
Thanks,
Lynn
 
Since I'm electrically challenged it would be better if you posted a new thread. This one is on page 2 now and will be out of sight. There is plenty of guys that will give you good advice.
HTH
DON TX
 
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