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Money Pit 12-15-2012 02:11:18 12.45.43.66 Report to Moderator	Heres the pics. I put some yellow paint on the end of the axle to highlight it. the red hub is the old one. less than 3/32” diference between the old and new. It was mentioned about the washer pushing against the axle so the hub couldn’t tighten. Even with the old one the washer never touched the axle the hub wasn’t pushed onto the axle that far. Zane; there are rub marks on the spring like you said. My bigger concern is what caused the hub / drum to be so far inward it wore the chamfer onto the brake shoes. Also rubbed on the upper spring anchor. Hoping to get my 2 hour brake job done this weekend. Unless I need more parts. thanks again [Reply]   [No Email]
Hobo,NC 12-18-2012 15:40:53 98.17.81.140 Report to Moderator	Re: Hub Pics old and new in reply to HCooke, 12-15-2012 02:11:18   russb wa said: (quoted from post at 00:10:19 12/19/12) I have not worked on this part of N. I was reading Hobo's post and he is talking about a different shim set. I think it goes behind the backing plates to adjust preload on the bearnings? Getting that whole setup right is important and easy to misunderstand. Correct BUT if one does all his shim'n (adjust prel-load) on one side it will make the axles favor that side... You will have one long side and one short side... Other than a axle stretcher it would have to come apart to determine why one axle came up short are as he did take the EZ road and move the hub on the axle... Theirs no silver bullet,,, sorry :cry: This post was edited by Hobo,NC at 15:44:42 12/18/12. [Reply]  [No Email]
Hobo,NC 12-15-2012 19:11:10 75.89.255.106 Report to Moderator	Re: Hub Pics old and new in reply to Money Pit, 12-15-2012 02:11:18   You old axle looks great that still does not rule out the other end may be worn were they butt together.... Short of a shim job of some kind I am gonna say the axles are going to have to come out to determine why one axle is in/out farther than the other... To many are no shims on either could cause your issue tho I have never seen it but I keep it in mind so only use one shim (as a gasket )tween the backing plate and the axle housing then do the rest of the shimming tween the bearing retainer (both sides) and the backing plate... If one were to do all their shim'n on one side its possible to have one short side and one long side... Before I started I would want to know what the axle end play is... SO WHAT IS IT :?: So what I may do,,, check the shims on the bad side its coming apart anyways,,, then check the other,,, if I determine the axle length is OK and to many shims on the other side use 2 are know shims on the other side this will push the axle farther out the bad side and shim/set up the bearing pre-load their... The optimal BRG pre-load would be dead nutz zero BUT 1 to 10 tho is acceptable,,, on assembly I shoot for .004 to .010,,, then when I nail it all down its usually .001 to .003 I am very happy :D Your options shim the hub as is are take it apart.... [Reply]  [No Email]
ZANE 12-15-2012 06:45:31 98.83.71.37 Report to Moderator	Re: Hub Pics old and new in reply to Money Pit, 12-15-2012 02:11:18   I cut 6 shims from banding strap material to the right length and width to fill the spline taper fit and then with the hub back off the end of the axle far enough to slip the shims into the splines I then hammered the hub on until I could get the nut started. If you can’t get the nut on with the big flat washer under it just leave it off until you can get the hub partially pulled back on the axle and then remove the nut and install the washer under it again. I then tightened the nut with a 3/4" drive pull handle and a 3' cheater till I was afraid the threads might strip and quit. I then removed the nut and cut the ends off the shims that had protruded from the end of the spine and to see how much more I had to play with and the end of the axle was still more than 1/4" inside the hub. GOOD! I then put the nut back on and repeated the tightening process. Don’t put the locking wire in the nut until you have run the tractor for a few hours and then re-tighten the nut again. Do this a few times before you replace the locking wire. I wish you luck! Zane [Reply]  [No Email]
tractorfix 12-15-2012 04:52:11 69.196.164.225 Report to Moderator	Re: Hub Pics old and new in reply to Money Pit, 12-15-2012 02:11:18   Thats an easy fix . Cut some strips of shim stock and lay them in the splines. Sometimes it takes a bit of trial and error to get the right size. The make sure the hub is torqued properly and you're good to go. I've done this many times and it works out well every time. [Reply]  [No Email]
soundguy 12-15-2012 14:59:17 107.41.91.157 Report to Moderator	Re: Hub Pics old and new in reply to tractorfix, 12-15-2012 04:52:11   yep.. back on the 10th I mentioned this... post from the 10th... [Reply]  [No Email]
russb wa 12-18-2012 12:10:19 67.185.6.72 Report to Moderator	Re: Hub Pics old and new in reply to soundguy, 12-15-2012 14:59:17   I have not worked on this part of N. I was reading Hobo's post and he is talking about a different shim set. I think it goes behind the backing plates to adjust preload on the bearnings? Getting that whole setup right is important and easy to misunderstand. [Reply]  [No Email]
soundguy 12-18-2012 13:16:59 184.4.146.28 Report to Moderator	Re: Hub Pics old and new in reply to russb wa, 12-18-2012 12:10:19   the shims WE are talking about are the ones you cut to shim up a sloppy worn hub and axle. [Reply]  [No Email]