Author	[Modern View]
DON TX 09-03-2012 12:34:50 76.196.6.124 Report to Moderator	This TE20 has the alt wire going to the solenoid hot side instead of the key switch. Does it matter or is this 1 of Dells "8 ways to wire a 12v". DON TX [Reply]   [No Email]
soundguy 09-04-2012 07:49:09 173.104.189.94 Report to Moderator	Re: Another electrical ? in reply to DON TX, 09-03-2012 12:34:50   1 or multi wire job?   [Reply]  [No Email]
DON TX 09-04-2012 14:58:27 76.196.6.124 Report to Moderator	Re: Another electrical ? in reply to soundguy, 09-04-2012 07:49:09   3 wire p2 to alt excite   [Reply]  [No Email]
soundguy 09-04-2012 16:10:34 184.233.61.14 Report to Moderator	Re: Another electrical ? in reply to DON TX, 09-04-2012 14:58:27   if a gm10/12 si p1 excite, p2 sense.. p1 needs switch/lamp/resistor or diode isolation from ignition   [Reply]  [No Email]
DON TX 09-04-2012 17:05:29 76.196.6.124 Report to Moderator	Re: Another electrical ? in reply to soundguy, 09-04-2012 16:10:34   Done that. Just wondered if tying the alt wire-amp gauge-solenoid hot side is ok? That's how it ran before. I'm not familiar of the 8 ways Dell knows how to convert and works. Seems to me it should but then I'm electrically challenged. (%^) DON TX   [Reply]  [No Email]
soundguy 09-04-2012 17:18:45 184.233.61.14 Report to Moderator	Re: Another electrical ? in reply to DON TX, 09-04-2012 17:05:29   they way i would do is is charge out of alt to ammeter.. from ammeter to hot side of solenoid. wire lamps and ignition to same side of ammeter as alt. nothing else on solenoid/bat side. if meter reads backwards.. swap wires side to side. this preserves a net charge / discharge setup wire from key to coil.. wire from key thru lamp to p1 wire from p2 to charge stud   [Reply]  [No Email]
DON TX 09-04-2012 20:00:02 76.196.6.124 Report to Moderator	Re: Another electrical ? in reply to soundguy, 09-04-2012 17:18:45   Yep, I thought they had too much coming out of the hot side of the solenoid. Bat +, alt/amp & key switch power. I'm going to get a terminal block and set it up so even I can figure it out. T/B may not be necessary but makes it easier to follow the electrons and probly easier on the key switch after I hook up the lights. Still don't understand the resistor between the coil and distributor. I took it out, of course. Thanks to all. DON TX   [Reply]  [No Email]
soundguy 09-05-2012 04:55:00 107.41.48.179 Report to Moderator	Re: Another electrical ? in reply to DON TX, 09-04-2012 20:00:02   the terminal block doesn't make it any easier on the switch.. just not running hte lamps off the key makes it easier. if you have a 2 post ammeter.. adding a terminal block is just adding MORE connections. a resistor inline from key to coil is if you have : a, a front mount system on 6v using oem coil.. thus it needs oem resistor b, above, on 12v, needing additional resistor to keep 6v coil.. or if using a 12v coil, then the oem ballast resistor. c, side mount setup using 6v round coil, needs dropping resistor. wire using the 2 post amp meter. bat on one side.. everything else on other. it's the easiest way to do it.. period..   [Reply]  [No Email]
DON TX 09-05-2012 16:13:03 76.196.6.124 Report to Moderator	Re: Another electrical ? in reply to soundguy, 09-05-2012 04:55:00   Thanks, I understand the need for a resistor but not between the coil and distributor. The term block is why I want it for the lights. They tend to have the most probability of a short or lack of ground (my experience). If there is a prob later, he will come back to me. Thanks again. DON TX   [Reply]  [No Email]
soundguy 09-06-2012 04:43:08 173.107.232.190 Report to Moderator	Re: Another electrical ? in reply to DON TX, 09-05-2012 16:13:03   i'm not getting the terminal block for the lamp connection deal. makes no sense electrically. you are introducing yet another connection into the system. the wire that runs to the lamp switch can come off the same side of the ammeter post as the wire that runs to the key switch. electrically the same.. yet the key switch won't be handling the lamp power.. and you should be using a fused lamp switch or circuit.. thus no issues. resistor between coil and dizzy? bad placement.. though technically will still make sparks.. it's still in the primary circuit..   [Reply]  [No Email]
old 09-04-2012 15:13:17 209.86.226.27 Report to Moderator	Re: Another electrical ? in reply to DON TX, 09-04-2012 14:58:27   #2 on the plug is the sensing wire and it hooks to the big post on the alternator. The #1 wire is the excite wire and it with a diode or other such device goes to the ignition switch the side that is hot when the key is turned on   [Reply]  [No Email]
old 09-03-2012 12:55:20 209.86.226.60 Report to Moderator	Re: Another electrical ? in reply to DON TX, 09-03-2012 12:34:50   If your talking that the charge wire from the alternator as in from the big post on it to the hot side of the solenoid that will work just fine. Now if it has an amp gauge that may not work as it should if hooked that way   [Reply]  [No Email]
Mr. T. Minnesota 09-03-2012 14:25:31 68.170.114.158 Report to Moderator	Re: Another electrical ? in reply to old, 09-03-2012 12:55:20   Don, My 8N is circuited that way too. The main lead goes from the main post on the alternator and to the hot side of the solenoid. The lead passes behind the amp meter(no posts) and works just fine. I have been working on my governor and have not had much success?? Can not get it to idle down. Just rebuilt the governor and still no satisfaction. Will have to start at step one in FO4 and adjust everything to specs.Wish me luck!! Only good news is it will be 70 degrees for a high on Wednesday. Hope this helps! Mr. T. Minnesota   [Reply]  [No Email]
old 09-03-2012 17:00:12 209.86.226.40 Report to Moderator	Re: Another electrical ? in reply to Mr. T. Minnesota, 09-03-2012 14:25:31   Ah but the amp gauge on a TO20 may not be the same as on an N series tractor but yes a lot depends on how it is all wired up and they can be made to work in a number of ways   [Reply]  [No Email]