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Royse 08-25-2012 16:25:31 69.36.49.151 Report to Moderator	Thanks for the replies on my previous post. I went and looked at this mower this morning, turns out it is not any model of "80" that I was told. It is a Woods Cadet 60. Has some dents in the metal, quite a bit of rust and a bad U-joint in the PTO shaft, but I bought it for about scrap price, so I'll see how it works out. Anything particularly bad with this model? [Reply]   [No Email]
Royse 08-26-2012 07:36:57 69.36.49.151 Report to Moderator	Re: RE: Woods 80 rotary mower in reply to douglloyd, 08-25-2012 16:25:31   Charles/Dean thanks for the advice. I did grab the blade and try to move it before I bought it. It spun freely, but I didn't notice any slop. Now that I know that is a common fail point, I'll flip it up and check it out a lot better before I do any thing else. [Reply]  [No Email]
Dean 08-25-2012 17:05:46 67.172.15.77 Report to Moderator	Re: RE: Woods 80 rotary mower in reply to Royse, 08-25-2012 16:25:31   It's a Dunham Lehr design. I have a 60" Dunham cutter that is quite similar if a bit older. The gearbox company (Brillion IIRC) is long since out of business and parts are unobtainable. Worse the CR seals for both PTO and Blade shaft are obsolete and NLA. Keep plenty of the proper oil in it. DO NOT use chassis lube. Dean [Reply]  [No Email]
Charles Krammin 08-25-2012 17:03:00 69.174.184.231 Report to Moderator	Re: RE: Woods 80 rotary mower in reply to Royse, 08-25-2012 16:25:31   Old bushogs are like any old bushog, built in the "OOOLLEE days". These are what to look for (expect), how to rectify. What not to do and what to do. Looks like my OLE Howsee. Gearbox 50HP max, seals on bottom leak, add JD corn head grease or 50-50 mixture grease and 90w gear ole (OLe drained hydrulic oil works good), every run. Fix if you want, but its a tough job. Looks like slip clutch is intact. Make sure its free to spin, probably frooze up and will need some BT Blaster. It relaces a shear pin on mine. TSC has PTO shafts, of size you need for HP. Buy and overrun clutch for OLe Fords. Use chain limitner and adjust so siderunner are level and height you want. Run a stablier bar, to helpwith chain limiter, so cutter doesn't "Tilt". Adjust tailwheel to height desired. Swivel bearing probably frooze up and will not take grease. BT blaster or heat to free up. Sharpen blades on machine, with handheld power grinder. I use 12' "Milwakee". Easier than taking off to sharpen, Hard part is getting it in a position where you can work on it with out it falling on you, like lift with loader and strap it to tree and then some way to keep blades from turning. Looks to me you got a "keeper"-cheap-needing some "TLC". Ole Charlie (fix-it) Krammin SW MI [Reply]  [No Email]
Charles Krammin 08-25-2012 17:18:19 69.174.184.231 Report to Moderator	Re: RE: Woods 80 rotary mower in reply to Charles Krammin, 08-25-2012 17:03:00   Opps and PS 12 " grinder, not 12'. Agree it looks like "brillion gear box. lower bearing and housing may be shoot already as this was a bad point with this gear box. Can you lift blades up and down? If so my advise- SCRAP-IT. BTDT. Charles Krammin SW MI [Reply]  [No Email]
Royse 08-25-2012 16:57:47 69.36.49.151 Report to Moderator	Re: RE: Woods 80 rotary mower in reply to McNugget, 08-25-2012 16:25:31   LOL Yes, other than being Hugly. [Reply]  [No Email]
Bob Harvey 08-25-2012 16:41:13 209.91.107.227 Report to Moderator	Re: RE: Woods 80 rotary mower in reply to Royse, 08-25-2012 16:25:31   Do you mean other than 'Hugly' ? ;^) [Reply]  [No Email]