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Topic: 9N hesitation
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| Abbby
08-05-2012 17:06:35
67.209.94.33
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front mount and 12V conversion. Got the carb rebuilt, new points,cap, rotor and wires. Runs much stronger then it did so I am happy but just tweeking it in. The engine has a slight hesitation when I give it some gas at most speeds. Otherwise it runs great. Takes off at slow idle with mower on in third gear so plenty of power. Seems I need to make a slight change to carb or governor. Any ideas? If it was an old carborated car or truck I would want to adjust the accellorator pump in the carb. |
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| CharnerL
08-05-2012 20:26:52
66.175.158.221
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Re: 9N hesitation in reply to Abbby, 08-05-2012 17:06:35
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| Check the linkage from the govenor to carb. If it is loose or a little slack you can remove it and bend it so there will be no hesitation when the gov. calls for fuel. |
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| Royse
08-05-2012 17:58:56
69.36.49.151
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Re: 9N hesitation in reply to Abbby, 08-05-2012 17:06:35
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| Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see
That would seem normal to me if it's not an extreme delay.
These aren't race cars, and not even a modern car with a foot feed.
They were really meant to be set at the desired speed and left there.
Check out what the guys have said, but if you're talking about a momentary delay I'd leave well enough alone.
Two cents. |
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| old
08-05-2012 17:45:48
209.86.226.59
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Re: 9N hesitation in reply to Abbby, 08-05-2012 17:06:35
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| First off make sure you have the point gap correct at 0.015. Next check to make sure you have a spark that will jump a 1/4 gap or more and is a good blue/white spark. Next does choking it help or hurt?? If it helps the carb is set to lean if it hurts it is set to rich. Also when was the last time you serviced the air cleaner. If it is full of dirt/water that could also be your problem |
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| Bruce (VA)
08-05-2012 17:32:22
24.125.80.178
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Re: 9N hesitation in reply to Abbby, 08-05-2012 17:06:35
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| | Leave the governor alone. Re-adjust the carb. Make sure the tractor is at operating temp; that usually takes 10 – 15 minutes at idle depending on ambient temp. Both Ford and Marvel/Schebler (assuming you have a M/S carb ) say to set both the side-pointing idlemix and the down-pointing mainjet to 1-turn as a starting point. I set the down-pointing mainjet to 1-1/2 turns and don't fool w/ it until the final step. Then adjust the side-pointing idlemix for fastest idle; not the smoothest idle. Next, adjust the behind the carb idle-speed set-screw for very slow 400-rpms idle. Do that idlemix adjust for maximum idle at least 3-times. Make sure that you turn the screws slowly, like 1/8 of a turn at a time & wait a second or two for the engine to catch up. Take your time! Do it like this: 1. Adjust idle mix jet until RPM increases 2. Adjust idle-mix set screw until the engine nearly stops (as slow as you can get it unless you have a tach that tells you 400 rpm) Repeat steps 1 - 3 three times. Remember the side-pointing idlemix is out for lean, in for rich. If you do not have any problems inside the carb, it is easy to get the idle down to 350 - 400 rpms. Your last step is to go back to the main jet. Remember, in for lean, out for rich. If you end up turning it OUT more than ½ turn for max power (remember, you already had it 1 ½ turns out) then stop right there because you have a dirty carb or a fuel problem. |
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