Author	[Modern View]
Len PA 08-03-2012 06:13:05 173.86.64.241 Report to Moderator	I have a 1950 8N (purchased it in 1988), It has been converted to 12 Volts (in 1997) with electronic ignition (sorry Dell).It is used a lot, while mowing it loses power and stalls out ( if I had a condenser I would have replaced it) It is getting fuel and starts up after a few minutes ( I can see the fuel flow through the in-line filter) It does smoke ( both the tailpipe and the oil breather cap)Is it time for a compression check or ignition replacement? Any help would be greatly appreciated [Reply]   [No Email]
JMOR 08-04-2012 08:13:02 99.105.24.57 Report to Moderator	Re: 8N Quits after warmed up in reply to Lamont7777, 08-03-2012 06:13:05   Quoting Removed, click Modern View to seeThere you have it! Another W.A.G. None of us know whether he as a spark or not, at this point in time!!!!   [Reply]  [No Email]
Den N Ms 08-03-2012 19:51:09 184.41.143.48 Report to Moderator	Re: 8N Quits after warmed up in reply to Len PA, 08-03-2012 06:13:05   Len PA ,You say,.It is used a lot, It does smoke ( both the tailpipe and the oil breather cap)Is it time for a compression check or ignition replacement?Nope Its time for an engine rebuild.It makes me laugh,every one is lookin for a magic condenser or carburetor ,ATF or somthin to magically fix it, or a magic elixir to repair all the worn parts in their engine. Granted some engines can be helped out but some you just have to bite the bullet and go for a rebuild if you expect to get any trouble free use out of them.   [Reply]  [No Email]
soundguy 08-03-2012 18:55:59 173.105.251.121 Report to Moderator	Re: 8N Quits after warmed up in reply to Len PA, 08-03-2012 06:13:05   ditto what's been said. narrow it to a fuel or spark issue. at moment of stall.. see if it has spark post back   [Reply]  [No Email]
Dell (WA) 08-03-2012 10:06:19 97.113.108.140 Report to Moderator	Re: 8N Quits after warmed up in reply to Len PA, 08-03-2012 06:13:05   Len.........congratulations, you have found a heat sensitive electronic ignition module. You doubt? Call yer EXPENSIVE electronic ignition manufacturer, that is why you pay BIG BUCKS. Smoke has 'nuttin' to do with it. ........Dell   [Reply]  [No Email]
old 08-03-2012 09:10:10 209.86.226.27 Report to Moderator	Re: 8N Quits after warmed up in reply to Len PA, 08-03-2012 06:13:05   In line filters cause more trouble then they are worth. As it is you should have 3 filters built into the system so adding a 4th only slow the fuel flow down more. I would do as the others said and I also would throw that in line filter as far as I could away from your tractor it is just a fire waiting to happen and a problem   [Reply]  [No Email]
Bruce (VA) 08-03-2012 07:39:41 24.125.80.178 Report to Moderator	Re: 8N Quits after warmed up in reply to Len PA, 08-03-2012 06:13:05   " Is it time for a compression check or ignition replacement? " Neither one. It's time for some troubleshooting. It is important for you to tell us if the distributor is on the front of the engine or on the side. The troubleshooting is different based upon the configuration of your engine. It takes three things for an engine to run: spark at the right time, compression, & fuel in the right mixture. For the moment, forget about compression & concentrate on narrowing the problem down to spark or fuel. There are three very important tools you always need to have in your N tool box: a 3 inch piece of wire w/ alligator clips on each end, an old spark plug w/ the gap opened to at least 3/16” ( ¼” is better) and a 7/16 box end wrench. (see tip # 50 at the link below) And, you really do need a working ammeter on the tractor; it is a very important diagnostic tool. With these tools, you can quickly narrow down most N problems to spark or fuel. Next time it stops, check quickly for fuel then spark. When I say quickly, I mean get off the seat, grab the tools & do it right then. Do not wait a minute or two. First, check for fuel. Get a can & put it under the carb. Remove the bolt in the bottom of the carb; as long as the fuel is turned on, you should see gas flowing out of the carb. Let it run for at least 30 seconds. If it’s a dribble, or runs for 5 seconds & stops, or none at all, you have solved half the problem: it’s fuel related. If gas flows well out of the carb & only stops when you turn it off at the sediment bowl, chances are very good it’s not a fuel problem. So, next, turn the key on, crank the engine & look at the ammeter. What is the needle doing? Does it show a constant discharge, no movement at all, or does it move back & forth slightly? Next, get the old plug, ground it to a rust & paint free spot on the engine, turn the key on & crank the engine. If the spark jumps the 3/16” gap, you probably don’t have a spark problem. If it won’t jump the 3/16” gap, you have a spark problem. If the ammeter needle shows a constant discharge, or doesn’t move at all, that also tells you that you have a spark problem. Jump the ignition switch w/ your jumper wire & see what happens. If it runs, you found the problem. If it doesn’t have spark after you jump the ignition switch, post back for more info on further troubleshooting. (and do not forget to turn the ignition switch off; see tip # 38) If it does not have gas coming out of the carb at a steady stream w/ the bolt out for at least 30 seconds, you have a fuel problem. First, remove the gas cap. Your vent could be clogged & it vacuum locked. If that doesn’t work, tap the carb bowl w/ a hammer handle in case the float is sticking closed. (don’t whack it w/ the head of the hammer; you can crack the bowl). If you still don’t see gas flowing, the N has three fuel screens; one in the brass elbow, one in the top of the sediment bowl & one on the stem of the sediment bowl in the gas tank. Check the screen in the elbow & the screen in the top of the sediment bowl. (don’t worry about the one in the tank) Both probably need to be cleaned. If you have the fuel knob turned on all the way, & 1 gallon or less in the tank, it may be trying to feed off of the reserve inlet which is probably clogged. Only open it 2 full turns. Put at least 2 gallons in the tank. (and do not forget to turn the gas off; see tip # 9) There are ways to check for spark & fuel that work & ways that don't. For example, having gas to the carb is nice, but having it past the float is what counts! The fact that fuel is flowing in the in=line filter doesn't tell you much. That’s why removing the 7/16” bolt in the bottom of the carb is the way to check for fuel. And, same thing w/ spark at the plugs. Some folks think that checking for spark means pulling a plug wire off & looking for one. Well, it's the distance the spark jumps at the plug that gives you the info you want. It takes about 17kv to jump a 3/16" gap & 22kv to jump ¼” in the open air. Remember, it’s 14psi outside of the engine & about 90psi at a 6:1 compression ratio in the cylinders & compressed air creates electrical resistance, so you really need the 17-22kv to fire the plugs when the engine is running. A store bought plug checker will work better than an old plug because it won’t shock the snot out of you like an old plug might! 50 Tips   [Reply]  [No Email]
HCooke 08-03-2012 07:38:44 70.195.65.38 Report to Moderator	Re: 8N Quits after warmed up in reply to Len PA, 08-03-2012 06:13:05   When it quits check for spark. If you have good snappy white spark that will jump 3/16" then check for fuel flow THRU the carb by removing the drain plug at the bottom of the carb. Catch fuel in a clean container and let it run for at least 2 min - should be a steady flow. Report back.   [Reply]  [No Email]