Distributor

Caryc · Feb 19, 2012

OK guys, 8N 12 volt side mount dist.

Decided to check my points and reset. At first I somehow had it in my head that the gap was .015" so that's what I did. Would not start.

I Checked in the F04 manual and it said .0024" - .0026" which I took as a misprint that was supposed to be .024" - .026" so I set them at .025"

Now I think it's just flooded since I just get pop backfires. Tell me please on the distributor which plug does the nipple closest to the head go to? Does it go to the front plug (closest to the fan)? It's not possible to get the cap on 180 degrees out is it?

I put the cover on with the arrow closest to the oiler like it says to and it seems like the cap will only fit on one way to mate with the notch in the cover.

old · Feb 19, 2012

Dust cover and cap only fit one way if on the correct way. As to which nipple is # 1 it can be any of them depending on how it was set over time. I.E. you can pull a distributor and drop it back in so any of them is #1. I would first make sure you have a good spark that will jump a 1/4 inch gap and then 2nd clean the plugs because they are probably gas fouled. If you do not have them a set of auto lite 437s work the best with this crap gas we have now days. Oh and yes the point gap should be 0.025 on a side mount

Dell (WA) · Feb 19, 2012

Cary.........ennytime you have starting problems,
CHANGE yer SPARKIES.........NO ARGUE!!!!
Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025" (same as
yer sidemount points) Don't throw yer FLOODED
sparkies away, just clean'n'dry them one-atta-time
in HOT running engine and save'um fer the next
time (and there will be a next time)

As fer which nipple is #1, its just above the cap
clippie at about 10-o'clock. Sparkie #2 is about
7-o'clock; sparkie #4 is about 4-o'clock; and
sparkie #3 is about 1-o'clock. Therefore timing is
1,2,4,3 CCW. Sparkie #1 is closest to radiator,
isn't that amazing???

The 5-nipple sidemount capple has a "notch" so it
only fits on the dizzy body 1-place. The dizzy is
timed 4*BTDC at idle (4-500rpms) Iff'n you have a
dwell meter, dwell is 56-60* (0.025" gap) Iff'n
you don't have a timing light, the FO-4 has a
method for static timing. ........Dell, yer self-
appointed sparkie-meister

Caryc · Feb 19, 2012

Thanks for the replies guys. I think when I set the points wrong I just flooded the heck out of it. The weep hole on the bottom of the carb even started leaking.

I'm going into town tomorrow so I'll pick up a new set of 437's and a spare set of points and condenser.

Caryc · Feb 20, 2012

Well, I got the new 437's and still no go. No spark, I mean. I'm going to replace the coil. The tractor seemed like is was losing power after it warmed up. A new coil sure won't hurt anything anyway.

As I said, it's an 8N 12 volt with alternator and side mount dist. Here are some numbers I got here. Can anyone tell me what coil I need? I'm showing a picture. Is the ceramic block shown there a resistor? There is nothing marked on the old coil. I take that back, there is a circle with the number 20 in it on the top of the coil. I kind of thought that if I had a 12 volt system there was no resistor needed in it. Am I running a 6 volt or 12 volt coil?

Side-Mount Distributor:
Points:
NAPA #CS749
NAPA HEAVY DUTY PIERCED (ventilated) #CS753
Standard Ignition #FD-8081
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD-8081X (Premium)
Condensor:
NAPA #FA66
Standard Ignition #FD-75
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD75X (Premium)
Rotor:
NAPA #FA67
Standard Ignition #FD-108
Distributor Cap:
NAPA #FA352
Standard Ignition #FD-128

6 volt coil IC7 ($48)

6 volt voltage regulator VR950

6 volt coil IC7SB ($23)

Neoprene front seal (replaces rope seal) #550199

12 volt coil, no resistor needed: IC14SB

trouttman · Feb 20, 2012

(quoted from post at 16:40:40 02/19/12) OK guys, 8N 12 volt side mount dist.

Decided to check my points and reset. At first I somehow had it in my head that the gap was .015" so that's what I did. Would not start.

I Checked in the F04 manual and it said .0024" - .0026" which I took as a misprint that was supposed to be .024" - .026" so I set them at .025"

Now I think it's just flooded since I just get pop backfires. Tell me please on the distributor which plug does the nipple closest to the head go to? Does it go to the front plug (closest to the fan)? It's not possible to get the cap on 180 degrees out is it?

I put the cover on with the arrow closest to the oiler like it says to and it seems like the cap will only fit on one way to mate with the notch in the cover.

Caryc, did the tractor run or before you decided to check and reset your points?

trouttman

Caryc · Feb 20, 2012

(quoted from post at 18:08:34 02/20/12)

(quoted from post at 16:40:40 02/19/12) OK guys, 8N 12 volt side mount dist.

Decided to check my points and reset. At first I somehow had it in my head that the gap was .015" so that's what I did. Would not start.

I Checked in the F04 manual and it said .0024" - .0026" which I took as a misprint that was supposed to be .024" - .026" so I set them at .025"

Now I think it's just flooded since I just get pop backfires. Tell me please on the distributor which plug does the nipple closest to the head go to? Does it go to the front plug (closest to the fan)? It's not possible to get the cap on 180 degrees out is it?

I put the cover on with the arrow closest to the oiler like it says to and it seems like the cap will only fit on one way to mate with the notch in the cover.

Click to expand...

Caryc, did the tractor run or before you decided to check and reset your points?

trouttman

Yes it did, but I have replaced points in it before so I'm sure I did nothing wrong. I checked them and re set them three times now and still no spark. I checked with a spare plug in a wire grounded to the exhaust manifold and didn't see any spark.

Bruce (VA) · Feb 20, 2012

Do you have battery voltage across the points when they are open? Verify the gap on the points at .025. Then, dress the points by running a piece of card stock or brown paper bag through them. New points sometimes have an anti-corrosive dielectric coating on them & old points can corrode or pick up grease from a dirty feeler gauge or excessive cam lubricant. (I always spray my feeler guage blade off w/ contact cleaner.) Make sure you have voltage across the points, as in past the insulator on the side of the distributor. That is a very common failure point on sidemounts, along w/ the attached copper strip. It's hard to find a short there because it is usually an intermittent . So 'wiggle' the insulator & the copper strip a bit when you are doing your checking. If you find the short there, the Master Parts catalog lists everything you need on page 154. You can make the strip and you could also make the insulators as well. But, somethings are just easier & in the long run cheaper to buy. Get the strip, 12209, screw 350032-S, 12233 bushing & 12234 insulator & just replace it all. If you just replaced the rotor & lost spark, put the old one back in. Insure that the rotor fits firmly on the shaft & that the little clip is there. Make sure the distributor cap is not cracked & doesn't have carbon tracks. Check continuity on the secondary coil wire. Make sure it is firmly seated in both the cap & the coil. In fact, replace it temporarily w/ a plug wire. Next, remove the secondary coil wire from the center of the distributor cap, turn the key on & crank the engine while holding the end of the wire 1/4" from a rust & paint free spot on the engine. You should see & hear a nice blue/white spark. If not, you have a bad coil or condenser. Just put the old condenser back in to eliminate that as a possibility.

Post back w/ results; I'll be interested in what the problem was.
50 Tips

Caryc · Feb 20, 2012

(quoted from post at 18:19:00 02/20/12) Do you have battery voltage across the points when they are open? Verify the gap on the points at .025. Then, dress the points by running a piece of card stock or brown paper bag through them. New points sometimes have an anti-corrosive dielectric coating on them & old points can corrode or pick up grease from a dirty feeler gauge or excessive cam lubricant. (I always spray my feeler guage blade off w/ contact cleaner.) Make sure you have voltage across the points, as in past the insulator on the side of the distributor. That is a very common failure point on sidemounts, along w/ the attached copper strip. It's hard to find a short there because it is usually an intermittent . So 'wiggle' the insulator & the copper strip a bit when you are doing your checking. If you find the short there, the Master Parts catalog lists everything you need on page 154. You can make the strip and you could also make the insulators as well. But, somethings are just easier & in the long run cheaper to buy. Get the strip, 12209, screw 350032-S, 12233 bushing & 12234 insulator & just replace it all. If you just replaced the rotor & lost spark, put the old one back in. Insure that the rotor fits firmly on the shaft & that the little clip is there. Make sure the distributor cap is not cracked & doesn't have carbon tracks. Check continuity on the secondary coil wire. Make sure it is firmly seated in both the cap & the coil. In fact, replace it temporarily w/ a plug wire. Next, remove the secondary coil wire from the center of the distributor cap, turn the key on & crank the engine while holding the end of the wire 1/4" from a rust & paint free spot on the engine. You should see & hear a nice blue/white spark. If not, you have a bad coil or condenser. Just put the old condenser back in to eliminate that as a possibility.

Post back w/ results; I'll be interested in what the problem was.
50 Tips

So you're saying with the key on and the points in the open position, I should touch a volt meter probe to each side of the points and get 12.6 volts?

Well, crap, I can't do that now since I pulled the coil out already. I am going to replace it since I have it out now, that's why I asked about identifying a new coil. As soon as I get a new coil in there, if it doesn't start, I'll do the tests you suggested.

Distributor

Caryc

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old

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Dell (WA)

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Caryc

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Caryc

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trouttman

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Caryc

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Bruce (VA)

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Caryc

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