wiring @ dash on 9n /12 volt

MnNC

Member
calling all wiring gurus !
am about to remove old 12 to 6 volt resistor (not infamous ballast) which i've learned i don't need now that i have a new 12 volt coil....easy eh Dell :)
question: where to connect the wires coming off removed resistor ? here's the deal--on one terminal there is a wire from the switch and another which appears to go to the front of tractor. on the other terminal there is a short wire coming from the ballast resistor.
if i was to guess...connect all three together ?
oh, and get this. the folks at D Carpenter where i got the new 12 volt coil, sent another resistor and told me: "be sure to install with new coil" :)my oh my ;)
thanks all and good day !
 
not sure where your 3rd wire goes without a pic or more explanation. I have a couple ideas, but don't want to openly speculate. in any case, you can simply move the single wire to the side with the other 2 and eliminate the resistor as long as you have a working oem resistor and a 2.5 ohm 12v square coil.

soundguy
 
(quoted from post at 08:25:38 07/28/11) calling all wiring gurus !
am about to remove old 12 to 6 volt resistor (not infamous ballast) which i've learned i don't need now that i have a new 12 volt coil....easy eh Dell :)
question: where to connect the wires coming off removed resistor ? here's the deal--on one terminal there is a wire from the switch and another which appears to go to the front of tractor. on the other terminal there is a short wire coming from the ballast resistor.
if i was to guess...connect all three together ?
oh, and get this. the folks at D Carpenter where i got the new 12 volt coil, sent another resistor and told me: "be sure to install with new coil" :)my oh my ;)
thanks all and good day !
ther than some WAG, that question can not be answered, without more information. Specifically BOTH the TO and FROM of each wire involved. Where does each end of each wire connect?
 
You can get two types of coils. One has an internal resistor the other does not. The one without the internal resistor NEEDS the external resistor, unless you like buying and changing coils.
just my experience joe
 
thanks soundguy...
the third short wire connects to the ballest resistor and runs to the other terminal opposite the switch wire and wire that runs to front of tractor.
JMOR...not sure where the wire connects at front of tractor...was thinking the coil

will try to upload a picture...
thanks guys !
 
I've suggested this one before......

Tip # 42.

It's apparent that you & nobody else can figure out how the tractor is wired. Screw it up & you will let the smoke out of the alternator, lights, coil.....possibilities for failure are endless.

I learned w/ my very first N in 1999 not to chase shorts & bad grounds on these tractors. Just replace it all.....everything.....and you will never have a wiring problem again. Less than $100.

Battery cables, ignition switch, terminal block, wiring harness, plug wires, coil wire & light wires.

Get the 12v wiring diagram from JMOR. Remove the breather & tool box. One hour later, it's done.
50 Tips
 
thanks old9
i had no idea...
another piece of the puzzle to figure out :)
don't want to buy another coil !
 
there are no internal resistor coils for these.

it's either wires with a higher ohm primary or a lower ohm primary.. thats IT.

soundguy
 
thanks Bruce for the repy.
you are right, i haven't a clue how this old N was wired :)
i do know that the wiring harness is less than a year old and that it ran beautifully until i transported it 200 miles from Virginia mountains to the Sandhills of N Carolina.
its been a fun project !
she will run again someday !
 
Another possibility is that your 'extra resistor' may have wires hanging on it but not wired such that it is even in the circuit. You must determine all connections of associated wires.
 
listen to bruce,AND listen to carpenter.if carpenter says to make sure you install resistor do it.(in other words you didnt get a true 12v coil ,but a six volt coil stamped 12v,like a lot of them are) quite frankly,if your tractor is running and working now you are gaining absolutly nothing,othere than replacing old wires.resistance in coils winding is what determines wheather you need resistor or not,not anything stamped on outside.
 
thanks JMOR
appreciate you replies
will get her running again soon !

here is a pic of the drop-down resistor
it about the size of a 50 cent piece and curls
like a 'C' or 'U'
one side a wire from the ballast resistor
other side, wire from the switch joins with a wire that runs to front of tractor....
to be continued :)
 
thanks Jack
was wondering why Carpenter gave me another resistor with my supposedly new 12 volt coil :)
 
(quoted from post at 12:31:55 07/28/11) thanks JMOR
appreciate you replies
will get her running again soon !

here is a pic of the drop-down resistor
it about the size of a 50 cent piece and curls
like a 'C' or 'U'
one side a wire from the ballast resistor
other side, wire from the switch joins with a wire that runs to front of tractor....
to be continued :)
yes, please continue. Also, just because Dennis sent a res with your coil does not mean it needs it or that it will start or run right with it. Go ahead and begin with it, but don't be surprised if you end up removing it later.
what_res.jpg
 
We need to know the facts & the whole picture, before we start guessing. I just put the sketch up to hopefully give him something to build on, add to or correct.
 
Yep on the diagram, good job.
There is also a wire from switch to headlights that I have removed for now.
Its so dang hot here in eastern NC that I have moved inside to the AC. Will try to post a pic later. Maybe that would help the cause.
Thanks again
Hot but not bothered n NC ;)
 
(quoted from post at 13:49:19 07/28/11) Yep on the diagram, good job.
There is also a wire from switch to headlights that I have removed for now.
Its so dang hot here in eastern NC that I have moved inside to the AC. Will try to post a pic later. Maybe that would help the cause.
Thanks again
Hot but not bothered n NC ;)
o, there are NO wires attached to the two terminals that I show as un-used on the 12250 ballast/terminal block?
If that is truly the case then you are running with no external coil resistors, whatsoever. It has been done, but if you leave ignition on, engine stalled, points closed, the coil really heats up & may not live through the experience.
 
JMOR...your diagram is correct as it relates to the drop down resistor; however there are 4 more wires at the ballast resistor. Three @ bottom terminal and one @ other terminal that goes to switch...
just put on the drop down resistor Carpenter sent with coil and checked voltage at coil and got 4.78 after bumping engine several times.
the ampmeter moves but not much and favors the + side. pulled plug and grounded on block, no spark :(
will try Bruce's suggestion and hold down belt and move fan to get points to open and close per the ampmeter and then read voltage. will have to recruit some help (wife) as my arms are not long enough :)
thank for your help...you too soundguy an others !
 
" i transported it 200 miles from Virginia mountains to the Sandhills of N Carolina. "

Well no d@mn wonder it won't run. A VA tractor in NC must be christened. Get a bottle of good vinegar based NC BBQ sauce & put a few drops on the hood. Tractor won't ever run until you do that.

You near Troy or Biscoe?
 
:)) good one !
yeah...she ran fine up on the mountain between Independence and Elk Creek Va.
bring old N down here where its 100 degrees and she say: " no way I'm running in this heat, try me again in the fall when its cooler " :)

we have a small farm here in beautiful Southern Pines NC. about 40 minutes east of Biscoe and Troy and a stones throw from Pinehurst, the big golfing resort.

appreciate all you guys help. i actually know very little about how to maintain these old tractors. have always liked them. reminds me of when i was a kid...long ago ! :)
 
I got real up close & personal w/ that sand & those pine trees in 1968-69 at Ft Bragg & Camp Mackall near Southern Pines. We did a lot of training in Uwharrie National Forest near Troy.
 
(quoted from post at 18:15:13 07/28/11) JMOR...your diagram is correct as it relates to the drop down resistor; however there are 4 more wires at the ballast resistor. Three @ bottom terminal and one @ other terminal that goes to switch...
just put on the drop down resistor Carpenter sent with coil and checked voltage at coil and got 4.78 after bumping engine several times.
the ampmeter moves but not much and favors the + side. pulled plug and grounded on block, no spark :(
will try Bruce's suggestion and hold down belt and move fan to get points to open and close per the ampmeter and then read voltage. will have to recruit some help (wife) as my arms are not long enough :)
thank for your help...you too soundguy an others !
Again 'trying' to draw what you describe:
what_res_2.jpg


This is how you need it to be wired:
9N_2N_12v_conv_NET1_rev2.jpg


Is the 4.7 volts measurement made with BOTH the Dennis C resistor & the 12250 resistor in series with the coil? I expect by the low number that it is & it you have a "12v coil/ 2.5 ohm primary", then that means coil current & resulting coil voltage is too low. Jumper the Dennis resistor & see if it will start.
 
thanks JMOR
yes, that's pretty much it. there is a headlight wire off the switch that i failed to mention and have untied for now...did not want to snap-crackle-pop my lights...
i removed the Dennis down resis and now getting 11.75 volts at coil.
still no spark at plugs
thinking points next....when it cools off some :)
thanks so much for the proper diagram, great !
one more thing..i have two wires going to alternator and another one that looks like a ground there also.
 

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