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12 volt conversion for 49 8N

R

Ramhoff

New User
Bought conversion kit from yesterdays tractors Tractor ran before conversion now wont start. Retraced wiring all seems right, but coil has power at all times. Key on and off. Please help. Work to do and no tractor.
 
(quoted from post at 13:37:55 06/02/11) Bought conversion kit from yesterdays tractors Tractor ran before conversion now wont start. Retraced wiring all seems right, but coil has power at all times. Key on and off. Please help. Work to do and no tractor.
Click to expand...
think you know the answer..........wiring isn't all right. But since I can't see what you have done from here, only you can determine what is wired incorrectly. Now, I you can accurately draw out your wiring & post it or e-mail it, I can then see what is wrong.
 
I used your wiring diagram out of the archives and have reviewed it over and over all new wiring.
 
You are missing somehin. Don't assume anything is right. Go back to the very beginning and start over. Recheck evrything, then recheck again. you will find what is wrong!!
 
bottom line.. coil don't have power all the time. period.

check and recheck yer wireing... you've got something WIRED WRONG.

soundguy
 
I REALIZE there is something wrong with wiring or I wouldn be asking for help but all the wiring that I did when I replaced the 6 volt with the 12 volt is exactly what is shown on diagram. The only thing I can think could be wrong is it is not the original key switch on the tractor. My coil wire (brown) goes from coil to added resister and then to the top left original resister block post. Ignition switch has more than just the two wires that are on original. I did not put this switch in bought it that way.
 
then I sugest a TOTAL rewire.. not a hack n pach grafting.

if you don't know where all the extra wires go.. time to strip, remove or trace them.

if it is a kew-to-start type auto switch.. I'd loose it for sure..

soundguy
 
(quoted from post at 17:04:14 06/02/11) I REALIZE there is something wrong with wiring or I wouldn be asking for help but all the wiring that I did when I replaced the 6 volt with the 12 volt is exactly what is shown on diagram. The only thing I can think could be wrong is it is not the original key switch on the tractor. My coil wire (brown) goes from coil to added resister and then to the top left original resister block post. Ignition switch has more than just the two wires that are on original. I did not put this switch in bought it that way.
Click to expand...
emove the two wires on the key switch.......separated there should be no coil power...........touch together & should have coil power.
Highlighted path is all that is necessary to power coil. Colors may not match your harness.
8N_before263844_alternator_COLOR_NET1_rev2mkd.jpg
 
The only thing i see different on the wiring diagram you sent me is that my alt wire goes directly to ampmeter and not to resister block first. I will change this. Should the coil wire attach to ignition switch somewhere? Some of the diagrams i have looked at show it hooked into it.
 
(quoted from post at 07:35:10 06/03/11) The only thing i see different on the wiring diagram you sent me is that my alt wire goes directly to ampmeter and not to resister block first. I will change this. Should the coil wire attach to ignition switch somewhere? Some of the diagrams i have looked at show it hooked into it.
Click to expand...
Look at JMOR's drawing. find coil, trace wire from coil to ballast resistor thru reistor then to the ignition switch then to the terminal block which ties it in the line form the battery . In other words everything he high lighted in green.
 
(quoted from post at 18:35:10 06/02/11) The only thing i see different on the wiring diagram you sent me is that my alt wire goes directly to ampmeter and not to resister block first. I will change this. Should the coil wire attach to ignition switch somewhere? Some of the diagrams i have looked at show it hooked into it.
Click to expand...
e sure one of ammeter terminals has only one connection and that is to the battery+ via the battery cable to solenoid.
 
Got the wiring for coil the way you said to and took wires off ignition switch no juice to coil at all. I beleive it is wiring on switch thats my problem. Switch has three posts Batt. Assc. and Ign. No assc. is for lights but where does wire go for the other two. At the present time there are two wires coming off the Ign they were both hooked into existing resister and for some reason unknown to me Batt wire was cut off. Shouldn I just have one off Ign and where does this go? What gauge wire should come off Batt and where should it go?
 
(quoted from post at 00:19:58 06/04/11) Got the wiring for coil the way you said to and took wires off ignition switch no juice to coil at all. I beleive it is wiring on switch thats my problem. Switch has three posts Batt. Assc. and Ign. No assc. is for lights but where does wire go for the other two. At the present time there are two wires coming off the Ign they were both hooked into existing resister and for some reason unknown to me Batt wire was cut off. Shouldn I just have one off Ign and where does this go? What gauge wire should come off Batt and where should it go?
Click to expand...
It would be easier if you got rid of the three terminal switch and got one with two terminal or wires to it. If you have a test meter remove all wires from stirch and with stitch off, check for continuitry from terminal to terminal. there should be none. With the switch in the on position do the same. with it on you should have continuity from the battery terminal to the ignition.

JMOR's drawing show the resistor block. Only the two terminals on the right side of drawing are for the resistor. the third one is just a place to hook all the other wire together.

Think of an electridal circuit as plumbing. electrical current flows thur wire as water thur pipes.

Would you not think that if the switch is marked batt, ignition that that might be where the wires should run too?
 
(quoted from post at 08:40:41 06/03/11)
(quoted from post at 00:19:58 06/04/11) Got the wiring for coil the way you said to and took wires off ignition switch no juice to coil at all. I beleive it is wiring on switch thats my problem. Switch has three posts Batt. Assc. and Ign. No assc. is for lights but where does wire go for the other two. At the present time there are two wires coming off the Ign they were both hooked into existing resister and for some reason unknown to me Batt wire was cut off. Shouldn I just have one off Ign and where does this go? What gauge wire should come off Batt and where should it go?
Click to expand...
It would be easier if you got rid of the three terminal switch and got one with two terminal or wires to it. If you have a test meter remove all wires from stirch and with stitch off, check for continuitry from terminal to terminal. there should be none. With the switch in the on position do the same. with it on you should have continuity from the battery terminal to the ignition.

JMOR's drawing show the resistor block. Only the two terminals on the right side of drawing are for the resistor. the third one is just a place to hook all the other wire together.

Think of an electridal circuit as plumbing. electrical current flows thur wire as water thur pipes.

Would you not think that if the switch is marked batt, ignition that that might be where the wires should run too?
Click to expand...



LOL I can see a problem here.....what happens if the person don't know squat about plumbing???????


Rick
 
(quoted from post at 08:25:52 06/04/11)
(quoted from post at 08:40:41 06/03/11)
(quoted from post at 00:19:58 06/04/11) Got the wiring for coil the way you said to and took wires off ignition switch no juice to coil at all. I beleive it is wiring on switch thats my problem. Switch has three posts Batt. Assc. and Ign. No assc. is for lights but where does wire go for the other two. At the present time there are two wires coming off the Ign they were both hooked into existing resister and for some reason unknown to me Batt wire was cut off. Shouldn I just have one off Ign and where does this go? What gauge wire should come off Batt and where should it go?
Click to expand...
It would be easier if you got rid of the three terminal switch and got one with two terminal or wires to it. If you have a test meter remove all wires from stirch and with stitch off, check for continuitry from terminal to terminal. there should be none. With the switch in the on position do the same. with it on you should have continuity from the battery terminal to the ignition.

JMOR's drawing show the resistor block. Only the two terminals on the right side of drawing are for the resistor. the third one is just a place to hook all the other wire together.

Think of an electridal circuit as plumbing. electrical current flows thur wire as water thur pipes.

Would you not think that if the switch is marked batt, ignition that that might be where the wires should run too?
Click to expand...



LOL I can see a problem here.....what happens if the person don't know squat about plumbing???????


Rick
Click to expand...

Well , in that case the person might leave plumbing and electrity alone!! :lol: :lol:
 
(quoted from post at 19:27:05 06/04/11) My 640 started fine and worked for an hour this am Still 6 volt.
Click to expand...
Both of my 8N's are 6 volts and they run just fine also, but each to his own!
 
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