First one of these I have worked on. Converted to 12 volts, starts OK, turns off OK, however the amp. gauge shows no charge or discharge. The kicker is, I wanted to check & see if the alternator was charging, so I pulled the neg. lead off thee battery & the engine dies. SO I believe the alternator was not charging. I took the alternator down to bench test, it passed. I called a alt. shop & they said the internal reg. could be bad & the bench test would not show a fault in the test. I took the alternator back & they replaced it, however same issue. Im 99.9% sure the wiring is correct. No different than an "N" series 12 volt conversion...SO, what's up?
- Thread starter Ronnie G
- Start date
unloading an alt by pulling off a bat cable is the 2nd fastest way I know to kill one.. first is reverse polarity.
put a volt meter on the battery.. 12.6v before start and about 14.4v after start and you have run the rpms up.
if it is a 3 wire.. hit the #1 terminal with bat power for a second see if it helps.
soundguy
Jubilee85 (VA)
Member
When you placed you leads - were they on the alternator stud or the battery? You sure the belt is tight too? If still no charge - take alternator to local advance/napa and have them check it for free.
On my initial post, it was a new one to begin with & it passed the bench test. I was told by an alternator repair /rebuild shop that the bench tests at the auto parts stores, the voltage regulator could be bad & still pass the bench test at the auto part stores. I replaced it with a new one. I told the auto part store the voltage reg. was bad. I did go back out and start it up again & rev'd up the engine to 2000 r.p.m.s., the volt meter was jumping around, "digital" meter. I shut the engine off, voltage was 13 & steady. I charged the battery for an hour so it would be hot, prior to me starting it up again...Anything else to consider?
t used to be done widely 60 years ago with DC gens & NO semiconductor devices, so these guys are making the 'giant leap' to same procedure with transient sensitive semiconductors everywhere and helping NAAPA, AZ, CarQuest, etc. keep profits up. Also, somebody, somewhere, once did it & nothing smoked, so conclusion was that it must be OK to do it anytime, anywhere......sometimes circumstances are everything.
Well I took the alternator to the alt. shop. Found out this model was NOT a 1 wire alternator like AZ told me. Put a harness on w/resistor from alt.shop. Charging 13.5 volts & amp. gauge is working.
Now I get to go back to AZ & slap the dog &*#!out of the person who sold it as such.
Now I get to go back to AZ & slap the dog &*#!out of the person who sold it as such.
Hi Ronnie I bought two ONE wire alts from ORielly Auto parts and they are actually one wires. I have insrtalled one and it does what it is supposed to do. They charged me 70 plus dollars ea. but they are a good warranty place so far for me. Don t know if you have a ORiellys close by your shop but I have found them to be good on the testing stuff also. Devious
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