12 V Chevy 1 wire alternator ???

Jay Bama

Member
I am using a Chevy 1 wire alt and since I rewired my system I have to remove the cable end from the + post of my battery when I'm done working.Otherwise the battery is dead when I go to start later.What could be dragging it down over night.It isn't the lights because I disconnected them to be sure.It had an auto ignition type switch on it when I bought it.I wired everything into that.If anyone can think of anything right off I'd appreciate the input.Thanks in advance! Jay
 
You have to have a diode to keep the electricity going one way:to and not away from the battery.Dell or Soundguy,or JMOR will be able to tell you more details.---lha
 
(quoted from post at 21:23:38 06/12/10) I am using a Chevy 1 wire alt and since I rewired my system I have to remove the cable end from the + post of my battery when I'm done working.Otherwise the battery is dead when I go to start later.What could be dragging it down over night.It isn't the lights because I disconnected them to be sure.It had an auto ignition type switch on it when I bought it.I wired everything into that.If anyone can think of anything right off I'd appreciate the input.Thanks in advance! Jay

You will need to isolate the drain, one step at a time. I would start by removing the one wire to the alternator. If that connect/disconnect makes even a faint spark, then the alternator is the problem & needs a test/ replacement. If that shows nothing, post back, but generally, you remove any potential loads one at a time to determine which is draining your battery. On an n, there are not many.
 
This sounds like the problem then.I started to mention that when I asked but didn't want to lead anything or anyone in the wrong direction since I wasn't sure.Thanks and both comments are very helpful. Jay
 
No such thing as a Chev 1 wire. That is based from a Chev alternator but then messed with by an aftermarket company which really messes thing up. Best way to go is a true Chev or nothing. the 3 wire set up is the best way to go
 
Jay.......the deceitfully desirable 1-wire alternator uses some internal electronic trickery to change the 3-wire Delco 10SI to 1-wire. Iff'n yer battery is discharging overnite, guess what??? Its yer ALTERNATOR internal guttz. Taker into autoparts place for "free" check-out and don't be surprized that they can't checker out. I HATE 1-wire alternators. .......Dell
 
Hi Old. I was hesitant in replying to you but I have been seeing quite a bit of bashing the pne wire systems and hpw dumb some of us are and on that point I will give in. I am using the one wire systems on two 8 ibz that I bought because the wiring was all mess up on one and torn out on the other. PLUS I am not anything close to a halfa---d electician. I have one system working well on my running 8n and it is regulaying and exciting like it is supposed to so I am wondering now if it is going to crater soon and gomup in smake. I bought the self exciting internally regulating alts 2 ea from ORiellys Auto Parts for 70 bucks approx ea and they have a life time warranty etc etc . I am just wondering what the reason for all the bad mouthing of these systems is and if I have been stupid to have put them on because it was within my skulls level and away from all the other things you need to know to do the 3 wire etc way. Maybe I should take it off and go with the other systems and not worry about them breaking down Watcha tink. Devious i Humble Tx
 
I am hesitant to come in behind Dell with a MAYBEidea but here goes. If you rewired it the little Diode in the wire going to Terminal 1 or two I forget might be backwards. I was warned that it would do that if I rewired and did put the diode in backwards. Just a thought. Devious
 
THANK YOU, old for telling it like it is, and trying to get the word out about just how damned worthless the aftermarket abomination "one-wire" units are!
 
1 wire , 3 wire , FoMoCo , ??? , best thing you can do is some internet research and learn how and why the electrical system works .

It might not all sink in at once and may take a few trips to the barn to tinker with the system , but once you figure out why it works then diagnosing is pretty simple .

You really could use a cheap volt meter with a needle gauge and not a digital .

Your system should have about 12.0 volts with the motor off and 14.0 volts with the motor running .

The good folks here can answer any question you have .
 
LOL ya those screwed up 1 wire things are a joke at best. I still have one tractor with it set up that way and when I run it you never know if it will work or not but since I only one it once a year or so it is not big deal
 
Well you see the problem with the 1 wires is they might work ok or they might not and then some will drain the battery if left sit for a week or more. Plus you pay twice as much for a 1 wire as you do the 3 wire and the 3 wire is so easy to hook up that if you have Bob's picture even a 10 year old could hook it up correctly
 
I agree, its a little extra work to add the diodde but it works so much better. Rebuilt alterntar is under 40.00 at O'Reilly with a warranty and dipdes are cheap at Radio Shack.
 
Well I read fairly well and do what I am told most of the time so what I don t get is if a 10 year old can set up a three wire and make it better than a one wire why are so ,any three wires coming onto the forum needing help when the three wire is not working or has burnt the diodes out of the alt or what have ya. Sorry I just think if a one wire will work for some of us non sparkie types then mebbe theres room for them in the wagon. Maybe if a good sparkie guy could do some thinking on the one wire and see what the problem is with it and just put it in words we could have better luck with them. When mine craters I will surely find out why at least I will try to figure it out . Mine might last me a longer while than most one wires tho because it will not be a working tractor every day and won t wear out whatever it is that is smokon the one wire setups. Best regards Devious
 
Well for one reason they do not have Bob's picture to go by and #2 a good number of people buy into the myth that you can check if an alternator is charging by pulling one of the battery cable off. Yep it does check them at the same time they are burning out. Plus do that can kill a person. But most people do not have Bob's picture and most do not look deep enough to find what they need to do before they do it
 
I have a One Wire system that came with the tractor when I bought it. I found that it was draining the battery very slowly. It did however charge the battery when running therefore I decided that the alternator was working. I installed a 12 Volt relay with high current capacity contacts that disconnects the alternator when the tractor is not running. This seems to be working fine for me. There is no diode in a One Wire Alternator system. There is a diode in the Three Wire system that would be in place of the dash lamp. I can never find the ideal solution just something I can live with. :D
 
(quoted from post at 09:12:52 06/13/10) Well you see the problem with the 1 wires is they might work ok or they might not and then some will drain the battery if left sit for a week or more. Plus you pay twice as much for a 1 wire as you do the 3 wire and the 3 wire is so easy to hook up that if you have Bob's picture even a 10 year old could hook it up correctly

Can you or someone post a link to Bob's picture? I am on the verge of converting my 49 8N to 12 volt alternator. Instead of a "kit" from ebay, should I buy the parts separate and put it together myself? Any special bracketry required?

Love this forum!
 
<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/424IH/Alternator%20Stuff/AlternatorHarness31.jpg">
 
Yep that picture says it all and even a 10 year old with this picture could wire one up.
Bob there is one thing you might add to it. On that one that says load side of the switch it could also read ignition side of the coil since a lot of times the coil is almost beside the alternator on some tractors
 

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