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12V Conversion on 9N; Charges at 25 amps?

D

Dale Klingbeil

New User
The system is from Yesterdays Tractors. I did not install and do not have a schematic for the wiring. The system has a Delco Remy alternator with one wire connection.
However, when the tractor is started and runs the AMP meter indicates 30 amps. After a couple of minutes the gauge drops to 20 to 25 Amps. This seems high. If I could obtain a wiring diagram, that would be very helpful. I would believe that the level of charge should be 2-5 amps.
Thanks for your help.
 
Dale.......its yer 1-wire alternator. Unlike the 3-wire alternator, the voltage sense is by-passed inside the alternator and therefore outputs what it thinks yer battery needs. Take yer alternator into a autoparts store for "free" checkout.

A wiring diagram ain't gonna tell you 'nuttin'. And yes, normally after a start, your amp-meter would indicate a fairly large "re-charge" to replace the use-up volts. And yes, normally, you'd see less-than 5-amps charge .......Dell, a 12v advocate for the right reason
 
I had the alternator checked at a rebuilder. He said it checked out ok.
Tell me if I need to pick up a different lead in the alternator for the correct amperage.
By the way, this is supposed to be the alternator that came with the new system.
Thanks,
 
Dale, if possible check the voltage across the battery terminals. The voltage should land between 13.8 and 14.5 volts. If it below 13.8 volts your battery may not be getting proper charge if is higher that 14.5 volts it will probably be a problem in your alternator and not wise to run too long in that state. If your battery has been run down from a lot of cranking or sitting around it will pull high current for awhile but should eventually drop close to zero amps when fully charged. My experience with the one lead alternators is that they do pull a few milliamps when the tractor is shut off. This could eventually drain your battery when not in use for along time. Good bad or other wise I installed a high current contact relay that acts as cut out relay and only picks up when the ignition swich is on. This solved my problem.
 
Dale.......I HATE 1-wire alternators. They've made a 3-wire into 1-wire by changing the internal voltage regulator printed circuit.

Normally, with a 3-wire alternator, you connect the external remote sense terminal (#2) to the BIG alternator output stud with 3" of wire. In the real automobile, the remote sense goes all the way back to the battery (+) terminal. And then by the magic of electronics, the alternator output volts are controlled to correctly charge yer 12v battery. In tractor conversions we don't do that. Not needed.

I know 8-ways to convert to 12v and they all work. I know a gazillion ways that don't work. Yer alternator is number gazillion +1.

Iff'n yer alternator guy is enny good, take it BACK and explain to him its the PRINTED CIRCUIT!!! .......Dell
 
I am assuming that changing the circuit board will do the trick. By the way, if I leave this as it is, charging at 25 amps, will I boil the battery?
The guy that put this system on the tractor claims to have used it with this arrangement for years. Am I missing something else?
Thanks so very much for your help.
 
25 Amps will eventually boil your battery if that where all the current is going. A good battery wil charge up in a few minutes at 25 amps. Does your starter crank normally or is it sluggish? Is your ammeter reading correctly? Does it return to zero when the tractor is not running? A battery with no charging applied should read around 12.5 volts.
 
2 things.. check yer battery.. one with a bad cell will make it charge at high current. specific gravity tester is cheap.. or swap in yer car battery for a quick test.

also.. some 1 wire alts can be made to work as 3 wire.

see if you have access to the #1 and #2 blade terminals.. usually hid under a rubber plug.

run #2 to the charge stud.. run #1 thru a 194 lamp to the switched side of the ignition switch.

post back.

soundguy
 
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