1-arm loader brackets.. cast iron?

the 'hip' or tranny brackets... are they cast iron? or something like cast steel?

Over the years I've accumulated a couple brackets with cracks in them. I decided to try out my welding skills on them.

cleaned em up, v-cut the cracks, got my sand box ready.. preheated the brackets with a torch.. made short welds and then peened the welds with my chipping hammer ( was told this can relieve stress as the metal cools. ).

had 2 brackets to do.. did one last night to see how it turned out. once done welding, I chipped and ground it to look good and then I kept it warm for a bit using the torch again, then left it to slowly cool in the sandbox.

so far as of this am.. no cracks.. either that means it's cast steel or a forging.. or it's cast iron and I got lucky.

will do the other one ( worse one ) on wednesday night. I'ts already had some welding repair on it.. but looks like it DID crack after that person welded it.

comments?

soundguy

Though I do not know, I would imagine that they are cast steel like the upper lift arms.

Dean

If they are cast steel.. then i probbaly went way overkill as cast steel isn't so particular to weld. Mighta wasted my time..

soundguy

http://shopswarf.orcon.net.nz/spark.html

This might help. From the load I see on mine, I would say cast steel

Fine line between cast iron and cast steel, actually its simply terminology. To make it short since Ford produced their own steel in their own mills they controlled its content and used only better quality materials and end products. I have not found any Ford castings that could not be welded using a MIG welder. I have not welded engine blocks but have seen it done and also seen many a welded block. Ford likely did not cast the loader brackets but whoever did would have had to use metals and procedures that met Ford specs. The steel produced in Fords mills that did not meet Ford specs was sold, usually to another auto company.

I used an ac buzz box ( hobart stickmate 235ACXL )

I did my root pass using 6011 cleaned it up and then did a pass of 6013. so far results are wonderfull.. no spider cracking or deformation.

I've played with cast iron before ( manifolds.. and have seen stress cracks right next to weld beads.. but non on these castings so far...

looks like that had more to do with materials than my skills..

soundguy

(quoted from post at 14:01:44 04/27/10) I used an ac buzz box ( hobart stickmate 235ACXL )

I did my root pass using 6011 cleaned it up and then did a pass of 6013. so far results are wonderfull.. no spider cracking or deformation.

I've played with cast iron before ( manifolds.. and have seen stress cracks right next to weld beads.. but non on these castings so far...

looks like that had more to do with materials than my skills..

soundguy

Click to expand...

6010 welding rods penetrate deeply but have high spatter. They are good for all positions, all types of steel, and almost any conditions and use DC current. (For better penetration on thicker steel over 3/8," bevel the edges and create a gap of about 1/8" wide; use 6010 for tack up and a root pass and weld the remaining passes and the "cap pass" with 7018.) 6010 welding rods need to be stored in a dry location, at room temperature, and in a sealed container.

6011 welding rods have all the characteristics of 6010, are used in all positions with AC or DC current, and work well on all types of regular or mild steel.

6013 has all the characteristics of 6010 but can be used with AC or DC current; it has less penetration and delivers a better-looking weld. Use 6013 on light sheet metal up to 3/16."

Use 7018 low-hy, low penetration, on all positions, with AC or DC current. Use the highest amp setting as practical. Use a straightforward "drag" progression with a "short arc." The low moisture make-up of this welding rod reduces chemical reactions in the weld itself and makes for the highest quality x-ray perfect welds. (Note - this electrode must be kept dry. If it's exposed to humid air or gets damp it must be dried in a rod oven before use. See Welding Rods Storage chart.)

Use 7024 high deposition welding rods for flat and horizontal positions. It's "easy" to use because its thick flux automatically maintains the correct arc length, which allows you to "drag" the rod.

http://www.rodovens.com/welding_articles/welding_rods_application.htm

The reason I chose the 6011 and 6013 were because I have an AC only welder. and yep.. the 6013 almost looks like a mig weld if you have a steady hand, of course, once the 6011 has done all the dirty work.

soundguy

You never waste time doing a good job.---lha

Can't argue with that one. for sure.

the bracket I'm gonna work on tomorrow has obviously bee welde dinthe past.. and they had worse luck than I did as it is cracked all over.. I'll see what I can do with it. Woyuld be nice to have 2 spares.

soundguy

Next time you weld cast iron use a gas barbecue grill to preheat the part,Weld it and put it back in the grill.reduce heat slowly.

(quoted from post at 12:00:37 04/27/10) Fine line between cast iron and cast steel, actually its simply terminology.

Click to expand...

Not really - the carbon content is way lower in almost any steel - whether formed by casting, forging, or rolling. Cast iron is distinquished by it's high carbon content - typically 2.5-4% or greater. Plain carbon steel on the other hand is less than .20% - e.g. 1018 which is .18%. A high carbon steel would be something like 1045 which is only .45% carbon. Common alloy steels like 4140 or 1144 are .40% nd .44% respectivley. The much higher carbon content in cast iron is what leads to diffculty in welding it. And welding even the high carbon steels requires additional steps (e.g. stress relieving, pre/post heat) to obtain maximum weld integrity and avoid embrittlement.

TOH

Do you have any sugestions for me. I'm going to work on the 2nd cracked bracket I have tonight.

I plan on doing the same routine.. ie.. clean piece, cut / groove out the cracks, preheat, peen/tap hammer after welding ( short weldes by the way followed with more torch heat to try to keep an even heat onthe work piece ), then lower post heat and slow cool down.

worked for me on the first one. crossing my fingers for this one as well. cracks aren't as deep.. but there are more of them..

soundguy

(quoted from post at 12:03:55 04/28/10) Do you have any sugestions for me. I'm going to work on the 2nd cracked bracket I have tonight.

I plan on doing the same routine.. ie.. clean piece, cut / groove out the cracks, preheat, peen/tap hammer after welding ( short weldes by the way followed with more torch heat to try to keep an even heat onthe work piece ), then lower post heat and slow cool down.

worked for me on the first one. crossing my fingers for this one as well. cracks aren't as deep.. but there are more of them..

soundguy

Click to expand...

Nope - sounds like you have it well in hand.

TOH

just finished the second one and It's inthe box slow cooling.

had to run to lowes to pick up another breaker.. the one my welder was on kept tripping.. new one works fine.. guess they don't last forever..

soundguy

just went out to check the brackets.. both are looking great.. no more cracks!

might have to track down some of that certanium ro.. or nickle rod or something one of these days.

soundguy