12 V Conversion problem

Sirs,
In reading Dell amd soundguys replies to elec problem I may have found my problem but I need to have two things clarified.

Original post for this no fire problem was in 2004.
I installed new wiring kit per a 12 V conversion diagram. However I did install a new 12 V square Coil on top of distributor (Front Mount). I can turn the motor over but no fire. In the post you said you dont need the inline ceramic resistor Is this correct. Also the wire from the 12 v coil goes to left side of terminal block where the resistor is under dash. Is this correct? it sounds as if not. Also ammeter does not function. It is new.
Thanks for any help
Bill

if the new ammeter don't function.. it's likely wired worng.

the 12v square coils DO need the oem ballast resistor in line.

power from key to one side of resistor.. other side to coil.

ps if the ammeter is wired wrong.. you may not be getting power to the dash..

soundguy

Soundguy,
Thanks for the info. I have tried the ammeter both ways. I have ammeter wired to bottom of terminal block and one wire to starter solenoid. Is that correct. Then you are saying to take the wire with the in line resistor to the top of the coil (which is where I have it) and then hook the other side directly to a key switch wire. Does it matter which wire from key goes to the resistor wire.
Thank you very much for your help.

Cloudy.......you ask....."I have ammeter wired to bottom of terminal block and one wire to starter solenoid. Is that correct"......YES, the BIG stud on the battery connection of the 3-terminal starter solenoid is very convenient to supply battery power thru the AMP-meter to the 3-terminal power block.

It should be obvious that you want 1-wire from the bottom of the "T"-block (which is battery HOT) goes to ignition switch IN. Then the ignition switch ON wire must go to one-side of the "infamous ballast resistor". It should be intuitively obvious that he other side of the HOTTSIE-HOTTSIE ballast resistor goes thru the tube to the top terminal of the squarecan ignition coil. (yes, new resistors smoke)

Interestingly enuff, the electrons don't care which ignition switch wire is power IN or out to the ballast resistor. Isn't that amazing??? .......respectfully, Dell, a 12v advocate for the right reason

OK.. I can tell you've got some real hairy wireing.

I see you mention start solenoid.. so i am assuming a 8n front mount.

here's a super ez wire setup:

1 wire from safety interlock tranny top mounted thumb start button to 3rd terminal on the solenoid.. the one that faces the block.

big terminal on solenoid next to starter stud attached with copper transfer bar... other big terminal goes to battery positive ( if alternator ).

also, there will be a wire from here to one side of the ammeter, other side of the ammeter has a wire that goes to the charge stud on the alternator.

now.. the side of the ammeter that is attached to the alternator, run ne wire from here to the key switch, other wire from the key switch to one of the top terminals on the ballast resistor.. other top terminal on the ballast resistor to the top post on the coil
If your alternator is a 1 wire.. this is all you need to make the tractor run and charge. if you have lamps, run another wire from that same lug on the ammeter where the key switch is wired and the alternator, and run that to a fused lamp switch, and then from the lamp switch to the lamps. I like to run ground wires for the lamps so that they don't have to ground thru 50 year old rusty tin.

post back if you need more help.

soundguy

okay guys i think i understand (Maybe) I will try. Soundguy the alternator is a 3 wire/ Does this make any difference to you. I will look at your and Dells and see how they go. The new wiring i did from a diagram on another web site.
Againthanks guys.

quick question. what is best way to check for spark. I usually take plug out and check as i am turning motor over. any suggestions?

okay guys I rechecked all and did wires both diffrent ways. Soundguy and Dells. No fire but I dont know if i am checking for spark correctly. So I read here to take off dist was easy. So i did brought it open and opened and found metal plate on rotor that makes contact with dist cap is broke. Could be part of problem.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks

Cloudy.......you write......."I read here to take off dist was easy. So i did brought it open and opened and found metal plate on rotor that makes contact with dist cap is broke. Could be part of problem".......oh yeah, BIG problem. New rotor $4, cheap.

Howsomevers; mostta the time, ya haffta buy the full "tune-up kit", including points and condenser and sparkplugs. ......Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

Dell, thanks thats what i will do. Do you have a suggestion as to the best way to check for spark.
You guys have been very helpful.

Dell;, also there is a wire hooked up to same post condenser is on inside the dist.That wire runs out top right side and use to go to a round can coil someone put on side of oil can. Then then top wire from that coil went to and down inside the old square coil on top of dist. I have a new sq 12v coil on dist now. I think this must have been farmerised somewhat. Correct or do i need that wire for something.
Also what exactly does the spring on bottom of coil supposed to touch inside dist.
Again my sincere thanks

Cloudy.......I recommend my "calibrated" sparkie tester. Take enny ol'sparkplug and bend the side electrode out fer a full 3/16"-gap. Then clamp the metal shell to enny convinient bracket. I use a BIG battery clamp, use ennythang thats handy so you don't gitt-bitt. Then plug enny sparkie wire to the top of yer calibrated tester. Turn ignition switch ON, and crank yer starter motor in NEUTRAL. Watch yer sparkies jump the gap. Are they blue-snott HOT? ...or... weak orangish-red poor excuse???

FYI, my eazy starting 6-volt 5-nipple roundcan 52-8N sparkies will jump a full 3/8"-gap. It can be done.

As fer yer extra wires inside yer distributor, they don't belong there, take them OUT. The springy-thingy supposed to touch the hollow head condenser screw. Don't try to put the insulated condenser wire thru the same hole.

And Cloudy......start a NEW THREAD at the main page iff'n you have more questions. .......Dell

that all sounds good we will see what happens and I will start new thread if needed.