12V Conversion (nearly done)

<<< Not my image. This is one I found on the web>>>

Gentlemen, I hope this is a fairly simple question. I've completed my 8n conversion to 12V using the kit. The only connection I have to the alternator is battery; there is nothing on the "INDICATOR" or "SENSE" terminals of the alternator. Is this normal?

Some of the conversions I've seen do have these connections (see image).

<<< Not my image. This is one I found on the web>>>
12volt-2005-1105-0019.jpg
 
Rusty.......zattzahookey. As you look at the alternator rear as per picture; #1 (excite) is the lefthand blade terminal. #2 (v-sense) is the righthand terminal. (its a 3-in wire to the BIG STUD alternator output) Neat thing about that white plastic plug-in, makes it so eazy to wire-up. .....Dell, a 12v advocate for the right reason
 
Hi,Dell. You're saying I should also hook terminals #1 & #2 to the alternator output?

Then that's to the + side of the ammeter, right?

Thanks!
 
I should have also noted: the kit did not come with a plug for the alternator, and the wiring diagram that came with the kit is not showing any connections from terminals #1 and #2. Thanks again!
 
(quoted from post at 19:15:03 06/20/09) I should have also noted: the kit did not come with a plug for the alternator, and the wiring diagram that came with the kit is not showing any connections from terminals #1 and #2. Thanks again!
ould it be possible you have a one wire alternator? David.................
 
(quoted from post at 19:26:14 06/20/09)
(quoted from post at 19:15:03 06/20/09) I should have also noted: the kit did not come with a plug for the alternator, and the wiring diagram that came with the kit is not showing any connections from terminals #1 and #2. Thanks again!
ould it be possible you have a one wire alternator? David.................
f not a one wire then connect as below. David.............

The 10-SI alternator has three terminals, however only two of them get connected to the tractor. (Thus, the 10-SI is sometimes referred to as a two-wire or three-wire alternator)


The “Bat” terminal should be connected to the ammeter with a 10 gauge wire. If a voltmeter is used instead of an ammeter, the 10 gauge wire can be run directly to the stud on the starter where the battery cable connects.
The number “1” terminal should be connected to the ignition switch with 16 or 18 gauge wire so the alternator only receives power when the tractor is “on”. A one amp / 50 volt diode should be installed between the ignition switch and the “1” terminal to prevent backward current flow through the alternator when the ignition switch is “off”.
The number “2” terminal should be connected directly to the “Bat” terminal (16 or 18 gauge wire) on the back of the alternator
 
The alternator looks just like an AC/Delco alternator on GM vehicles, with terminals 1 & 2.

I've posted the wiring diagram that came with the kit. I'm kind of puzzled why they are not specifying this connection.

Thanks again.
12v_conversion.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 19:49:10 06/20/09) The alternator looks just like an AC/Delco alternator on GM vehicles, with terminals 1 &amp; 2.

I've posted the wiring diagram that came with the kit. I'm kind of puzzled why they are not specifying this connection.

Thanks again.
12v_conversion.jpg
ne wire alternator diagram. David.....................
 

Rusty, the diagram is for the ONE_WIRE Delco 10-SI. The #1 &amp; #2 terminals are unused on the ONE-WIRE regulator application (sometimes they have a rubber cap over the pair). If once up &amp; running, you are unhappy at the initial speed you have to run your engine to initiate charging, then you can add the #1 excite wiring &amp; diode that has been mentioned in GA Dave's post in order to make it start charging at a lower RPM.
 
Rusty........you posted a picture for a 3-wire alternator conversion. And I explained how to wire for a 3-wire conversion. NOW yer posting a pictorial diagram for a 1-wire alternator conversion. Deceptively desirable ...except... it don't start charging until you've goosed yer cold engine to about 1800rpms. Once goosed, it'll charge at 600rpms like the 3-wire conversion does without being goosed. 1-wire conversions make a lotta sense for automobiles and marine engines. Dunno about you, I don't like goosing a cold engine to 3/4 throttle, do you? And iff'n you don't goose it, it will NEVER CHARGE even iff'n warm engine. .......Dell, a 12v advocate for the right reason
 
Sounds like you have the one wire 12 volt conversion kit. I purchased a one wire kit for both my side mount 1950 8N and my front mount 1949 8N. The pulley supplied with both was small enough compared to the crank pulley that they start charging well below 1000 rpm. I never checked the exact rmp. I am completely happy with how they work. I would suggest that you hook it up as a one wire per the instruction. If you find for some reason you don't like how it operates you can get the additional items to make it a three wire installation.
 
Thanks much to all who responded. This is my first 8n, so I wanted to make sure I had everything right before I put battery to it after the 12V conversion.

It sounds like the one-wire setup is right, but I do have the option to hook up the excite terminal, if I discover I need it.

Thanks again. I've posted a picture of "my" conversion alternator that shows the terminals, which led to my initial concern.

Thanks again everyone!
My8NAlternator.jpg
 

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