12V Conversion - and an OOPS

Hello all - first, thanks to all of you who contribute your time and knowledge here, especially Bruce & Dell. I would be lost without your help. Having said that, I need to draw from that fount of knowledge once again. I have had trouble starting my 8N (1950, with a front mount distributer) since the day I bought it. Going over the schematics, it was clear the wiring (12v conversion) was flat out wrong! First, I cleaned up the ground. Big help, much stronger crank when it didn"t start. When I finally rewired, replacing 16 guage wiring liberally with 10 guage, it started like a champ! Without the diode or light, it runs with the key off as advertised: I"ll fix that tomorrow - I"m hoping that Autozone"s Sylvania 194 meets the requirments of the "double contact blade type" side marker. If it is lit whenever the key is on, as a "Hey, dummy - turn off the key" reminder -- BONUS! Since I don"t trust the existing wiring - is there a way to confirm the P1 vs P2 contacts on the altenator?

Speaking of "Hey, dummy." Despite Bruce"s best efforts to warn me (Tip #9), I went out the other morning and the fuel flow shutoff was ON! Now, tip #9 has several "ifs." How do I know if I have filled the oil pan with gas? I can"t smell gas on the dipstick (ok - no cheap shots about my hands), so do I need to change the oil right away, or am I probably OK? Since I had a fuel system issue, I started looking and found a couple of other issues I don"t like. Right above the fuel sediment bowl, there is what appears to be a piece of cork with no gasket or screen. Do I need to pull off the cork (I will probably destroy it) or is the screen missing and should be installed below the cork?

I also pulled the elbow through which the gas travels into the carborator. I did not find the "screen" which is supposed to be there. Should it be attached to the elbow, is it probably trapped in the carburetor, or is it probably missing entirely?

Since I"m on a roll - the next project is to troubleshoot the mechanism that keeps the bushhog in place. As I cut, the bushhog settles lower. The previous owner removed the guard over the handle that raises and lowers the bushhog because the handle has to be moved well behind the guard to adjust the height of the bushhog. Do I need to rebuild the hydraulic pump, or chase after another issue?

Thanks again, all, for your help.

Art

Art........the answers to some of yer questions are;......

1) you write......."Without the diode or light, it runs with the key off as advertised: I"ll fix that tomorrow - I"m hoping that Autozone"s Sylvania 194 meets the requirments of the "double contact blade type" side marker.".......#194 is standard "idiot lite" type. Me? I recommend a trailer lite replacement that already has "wires". Eazy installation, eh?

Use Delco alternator #1 excite blade (L/H side) to ignition switch ON terminal. Use a short 3" loop from #2 voltage sense blade (R/H side) to the BIG STUD alternator output which also goes to yer 12v battery solenoid stud. Simple, eh?

2) you ask....."How do I know if I have filled the oil pan with gas?"......iff'n yer oilpan dipstick is OVERFULL and oil looks clear. Gas floats on oil. Note: a little gas does no harm and will evaporate with HOT OIL temperatures. (1-hr of running to gitt oil HOT)

3) you ask....."Right above the fuel sediment bowl, there is what appears to be a piece of cork with no gasket or screen. Do I need to pull off the cork (I will probably destroy it) or is the screen missing and should be installed below the cork?".......screen to the tank side, cork to the glassbowl side Many are using the NAPA #730-9506 neoprene O-ring instead of cork.

4) you ask......"I also pulled the elbow through which the gas travels into the carborator. I did not find the "screen" which is supposed to be there. Should it be attached to the elbow, is it probably trapped in the carburetor, or is it probably missing entirely?".......3rd screen is permanently attached to the elbow. It most likely is "trapped" in the carb inlet.

5) you ask......."troubleshoot the mechanism that keeps the bushhog in place. As I cut, the bushhog settles lower"......you do know yer 8N has a little "flush" handle under yer right kneesie don't you? horizontal for draft (plowing) and VERTICAL for position control ...ie... brushoggin' height control.

You may need INTERNAL adjustments via Zane's Jig (handle behind the guard) ...or... buy some chain stay-height to support the brushogg from yer 3-point top-link. $20 (cheap) Simple, eh? .......Dell

David..............