12V conversion questions

Devintage

New User
Hi, I've got a '49 8n, front-mount distributor, converted to 12V by a previous owner. It's got an appetite for points - I've owned this tractor for 9 years and with light use (10-20 hrs/month) the points have never gone more than two years before burning up. Thanks to all the great info on this forum, I'm replacing all the old switches and wires, and converting the square can coil to a 12V round can, courtesy of Hobo's excellent <a href="http://www.theviperr.com/hobo_dnn/Default.aspx?tabid=69">guide</a>. The actual coil conversion went off without a hitch, but now some wiring issues have me stumped.

I thought everything on the 8n is normally grounded to the frame, but on mine there's a ground wire running from one of the two distributor mounting bolts to the negative battery terminal. The headlights are also grounded to the battery. Isn't this redundant for the distributor? Is it possible that the previous owner had trouble getting a good contact between the distributor and engine? As for the headlights, can I just connect the ground wires to the hood someplace instead of running them to the negative battery terminal?

The 12V round can coil I have (OD150 12V, MIT-015003) states "no external resistor required" right on the casing, and I measured a resistance of 4 ohms across it's pos and neg terminals. Based on the guides I've read, that's the proper resistance, so I ditch the stock ballast resistor and the ignition resistor - is that correct?

Finally, where's a good place to mount the new round can coil? I'm thinking someplace behind the dash/firewall, where it would be cool, relatively free of oil splatter, and would not require disconnection before removing the hood. Is it ok to run the high tension spark plug wire all the way from the dash area to the front-mount distributor? Any limit on the length of the coil to distributor wire? Any other reasons not to mount it behind the dash?
 
(quoted from post at 16:27:19 01/29/09) Hi, I've got a '49 8n, front-mount distributor, converted to 12V by a previous owner. It's got an appetite for points - I've owned this tractor for 9 years and with light use (10-20 hrs/month) the points have never gone more than two years before burning up. Thanks to all the great info on this forum, I'm replacing all the old switches and wires, and converting the square can coil to a 12V round can, courtesy of Hobo's excellent &lt;a href="http://www.theviperr.com/hobo_dnn/Default.aspx?tabid=69"&gt;guide&lt;/a&gt;. The actual coil conversion went off without a hitch, but now some wiring issues have me stumped.

I thought everything on the 8n is normally grounded to the frame, but on mine there's a ground wire running from one of the two distributor mounting bolts to the negative battery terminal. The headlights are also grounded to the battery. Isn't this redundant for the distributor? Is it possible that the previous owner had trouble getting a good contact between the distributor and engine? As for the headlights, can I just connect the ground wires to the hood someplace instead of running them to the negative battery terminal?
*****Often the tin doesn't provide a good light ground via bolted joints, hence, the ground wires. As for the distributor, I say no extra gnd needed.

The 12V round can coil I have (OD150 12V, MIT-015003) states "no external resistor required" right on the casing, and I measured a resistance of 4 ohms across it's pos and neg terminals. Based on the guides I've read, that's the proper resistance, so I ditch the stock ballast resistor and the ignition resistor - is that correct?
********yep.

Finally, where's a good place to mount the new round can coil? I'm thinking someplace behind the dash/firewall, where it would be cool, relatively free of oil splatter, and would not require disconnection before removing the hood. Is it ok to run the high tension spark plug wire all the way from the dash area to the front-mount distributor? Any limit on the length of the coil to distributor wire?
******ought to be fine........one of mine just like the mt location you describe. Use metal core wire, not carbon core resistance wire.
Any other reasons not to mount it behind the dash?
 
Hello Devintage – When I was a sprout working @ a gas station, one of the guys pulled a trick on our buddy who drove a nice, fairly new, big-block ’69 Camaro. That thing was the cat’s a$$!! He replaced the coil wire with a piece of vacuum tubing. At quitting time, we were all standing around grinning, when the guy went out, fired it up, and drove home! The next morning he pulled it straight in the bay and popped the hood (said it had a miss), but I swear that tubing had to be 8” long without a bit of wire. They just don’t make ‘em like they used to. GoodLuck - RounderRick
 
I spec a dash mount would b ok if its to your like'n,,, I mount in front of the oil filter using one of the oil filter bolts.,,, sorry no pic's,,, BTW you can buy a mounting bracket from NAPA # ICB15 used with a IC14SB coil the IC14SB is a tad small for a standard bracket like the one for a side mount,,, I normaly use tape rapped around the coil for a good fit are you can also buy the adapter ICA1,,, no presidential solution needed
 
I mounted my coil on all my 3 front mount distrubutor beside the oil filter.


<a href="http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g99/goldgander/179555/?action=view&current=100_1962.jpg" target="_blank">
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</a>

Stan
1949 8N 8N179555
1949 8N 8N197904
1950 8N 8N254079
1951 8N 8N362039
 
yep.. ditch the ballast ressitor.

yep.. redundant grounds.. but they don't hurt.. and int he case of lamps grounded to 50 year old rusty sheet metal.. I'd leave the extra ground in place.. or move them to the block...

soundguy
 

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