12V Probe Tester?

Gents~
I'm going to go help a friend out with his '40 9N, 6volt positive ground. He had it hooked up to a 6v/12v automatic charger and thinks he let the smoke out somewhere, no power at top of front mount coil. All I have here is a 12v puncture wound tester, I know it'll be dim but see-able.

With key switch on, what should be hot? Both leads on switch? all 3 leads on Term. block? Both leads on the round regulator? Same with starter switch?

Not a lot of options on parts here, have to order them and it takes a week.

Thanks!

Marcus

(quoted from post at 17:04:47 03/14/21) Gents~
I'm going to go help a friend out with his '40 9N, 6volt positive ground. He had it hooked up to a 6v/12v automatic charger and thinks he let the smoke out somewhere, no power at top of front mount coil. All I have here is a 12v small puncture wound tester, I know it'll be dim but see-able.

With key switch on, what should be hot? Both leads on switch? all 3 leads on Term. block? Both leads on the round regulator? Same with starter switch?

Not a lot of options on parts here, have to order them and it takes a week.

Thanks!

Marcus

Click to expand...

ll the above, except the generator lead on the cut out (round reg to you).

(quoted from post at 19:55:04 03/14/21)

(quoted from post at 17:04:47 03/14/21) Gents~
I'm going to go help a friend out with his '40 9N, 6volt positive ground. He had it hooked up to a 6v/12v automatic charger and thinks he let the smoke out somewhere, no power at top of front mount coil. All I have here is a 12v small puncture wound tester, I know it'll be dim but see-able.

With key switch on, what should be hot? Both leads on switch? all 3 leads on Term. block? Both leads on the round regulator? Same with starter switch?

Not a lot of options on parts here, have to order them and it takes a week.

Thanks!

Marcus

Click to expand...

ll the above, except the generator lead on the cut out (round reg to you).

Click to expand...

ot start sw to starter unless you push START sw

Edit:
forum didn't like poke tester, changed it to puncture wound )-:

Okay, so what do you and/or your friend know about Fords? Where did you connect a battery charger to? The battery? Yes, then probably didn't do any damage. DO NOT START BUYING NEW PARTS and REPLACING until you test and know old are defective. FACT: 99.98% of all non-starting tractors (vehicles) are due to mucked up electrical systems. You always begin testing/troubleshooting with the battery and I don't mean slapping a basic trickle charger on it. A weak or dead battery isn't going to charge it. The battery must sustain a full charge under load in order to functionally operate teh ignition and charging systems. Have it tested for specific gravity at a trusty local shop on their special bench test equipment. If it tests bad, now you can buy a good GROUP 1 AG Type battery from a good brand. Bargain house units tend to be a waste of money, offer poor lifespans, and can be junkers out the door. Shop guy can bench test the GEN as well. If bad, rebuild it, don't buy a junkie new one. While waiting for battery, invest in The ESSENTIAL MANUALS. If you do not have a roadmap to go by how do you know where you are going? You can do your wiring testing with your digital VOM. Set to CONTINUITY. Don't use a probe test light - it needs power, you don't want any power right now. Trace all wiring using diagrams. Take no shortcuts. If you don't know what a part is, don't guess and take the time to read the manuals and understand. All 9N and 2Ns use the same electrical system. The exceptions are the early 9N's with the small generators used up til 1940 and even then some have been switched out so don't place too much value on a model number. Chances are you don't have the 9N-A GEN that used a VR, and probably not a 9N-B either with the HI-LO slider button. ALL '39 - '49 Ford Tractors used the Front Mount Distributor with breaker points and has to be set and timed on your bench then tested before you mount it. It MUST BE mounted correctly on engine or else will break the base when power is applied. Do you know that? The 40-47 system also uses teh Ballast Resistor (Do you know that and how to identify?) a roundcan cutout circuit (not a Voltage Regulator) -did you also know that? The GEN is a 1-Wire/3-Brush 11.5 AMP 'A' Circuit Unit with a belt tensioner and uses teh roundcan cutout; Starter Motor is a 1-Wire unit with NO Solenoid. The start pushbutton and switch, ignition switch, ammeter can all be tested if after you verify wiring is correct, dist is right, power to coil checks out and if it still won't start. What many guys neglect on their electrical systems is to have a fan belt tensioning device. Without one, you will never charge the battery whether 6V or 12V. Yeah, lotsa options here and replacing parts is not one of them. True root case problem solving is the answer. If you will need new parts, I can almost guarantee you will only need a new, good battery, a new set of tuneup parts (rotor, condensor, points, gaskets) and maybe a new coil. Get the manuals to start with. One more thing. Lights. If you have them, disconnect the circuit before you begin testing. Lights were only dealer optional accessories and many were connected wrong and often are the source of shorts. Once electrical is right and running, you can connect lights correctly.

FORD TRACTOR 9N & 2N, AFTER S/N 12500, OEM 6V/POS GRN WIRING:

FORD 9N-10505-B CUTOUT USED AFTER S/N 12,500 TO S/N 258504 ON 9N & 2N MODELS ONLY:

FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR 9N-12250 BALLAST RESISTOR:


WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR; OEM 9N & 2N ELECTRICAL SETUP:

FORD 9N/2N ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:

Tim Daley(MI)