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12V Alternator Conversion

4

4x4dually

Member
Trying to install the conversion I bought from
Yesterday?s Tractor. I?m at the point where I?m going
to return it unless someone can tell me how to make
these Chinese junk brackets work. The
craftsmanship is complete crap. NOTHING fits
without modification. I did not spend over a hundred
bucks to sit in the shop til midnight making new
brackets. I?m fairly hot currently. Can someone shed
some light on how to make it work before I box it all
back up?
 
I had the same problem,I kept heating, bending, welding, cutting, grinding until the alternator fit properly and the belt ran straight and could be tightened correctly.
 
(quoted from post at 21:33:09 10/21/17) Trying to install the conversion I bought from
Yesterday?s Tractor. I?m at the point where I?m going
to return it unless someone can tell me how to make
these Chinese junk brackets work. The
craftsmanship is complete crap. NOTHING fits
without modification. I did not spend over a hundred
bucks to sit in the shop til midnight making new
brackets. I?m fairly hot currently. Can someone shed
some light on how to make it work before I box it all
back up?
Click to expand...

What tractor is it that you are modifying? I did 2 8ns with there kits for a side mount distributor and had no problems. well one hole had to be reamed out a bit.
 
Front mount engine with alternator on right side. If so I will send you a photo. I used YT's kit - no problem.
 
I understand you're frustrated, but we need to know what tractor
to help you out. Particularly, front mount distributor or side mount.
The two alternator setups are very different.
 
Not sure what I'm supposed to do with these craptaskic brackets. It's a '39 9N.

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto5051.jpg"/>
 
(quoted from post at 04:35:25 10/23/17) Not sure what I'm supposed to do with these craptaskic brackets. It's a '39 9N.
Click to expand...

I ultimately had to make my own upper bracket due to the poor craftsmanship of what was included in the kit. Surprisingly the only response from YT was "oh well".
 
Wow. I never even thought of using different head bolts than the factory bracket. I'll try to rotate it tonight and see if it will clear that tube where the wiring comes down to the distributor. If that works I'm gonna hit myself on the big toe with a hammer for being stupid. LOL

Thanks for the tip. I'll try it tonight.
 
(quoted from post at 10:03:07 10/23/17) The piece laying on engine under light....how about rotating it 90 degrees CCW?
Click to expand...

more proof here that a picture is indeed worth a thousand words :)
 
(quoted from post at 17:34:35 10/23/17)
(quoted from post at 10:03:07 10/23/17) The piece laying on engine under light....how about rotating it 90 degrees CCW?
Click to expand...

more proof here that a picture is indeed worth a thousand words :)
Click to expand...

And more proof that instructions that say "install bracket" need to be more specific and include pictures. LMAO

I guess I was more on the defense since everything I buy these days either comes in broken, wrong, missing, etc. Not from YT, but just in general. Somewhere in the US there is a group of Quality Engineers desperately seeking jobs.

For instance, the lower bracket. As many have stated, it can't be used out of the box. I had to clamp it in a vice and use a milling bit to get the hole wollered-out so the factory bolt would go through it. The centers of the holes weren't remotely close. One side was bend short than the other and the holes aren't even punch in the middle of the piece that was bent. When I saw "china" on it...I knew. Even the long arm bracket has a bow in it. I guess I'm just used to dealing to three decimals at work and we reject things that are out of tolerance by .010" Apparently the Chinese don't own calipers. LOL

I'll switch the bracket around tonight and see how much crow I can fit in my craw.
 
(quoted from post at 14:42:40 10/23/17)
(quoted from post at 17:34:35 10/23/17)
(quoted from post at 10:03:07 10/23/17) The piece laying on engine under light....how about rotating it 90 degrees CCW?
Click to expand...

more proof here that a picture is indeed worth a thousand words :)
Click to expand...

And more proof that instructions that say "install bracket" need to be more specific and include pictures. LMAO

I guess I was more on the defense since everything I buy these days either comes in broken, wrong, missing, etc. Not from YT, but just in general. Somewhere in the US there is a group of Quality Engineers desperately seeking jobs.

For instance, the lower bracket. As many have stated, it can't be used out of the box. I had to clamp it in a vice and use a milling bit to get the hole wollered-out so the factory bolt would go through it. The centers of the holes weren't remotely close. One side was bend short than the other and the holes aren't even punch in the middle of the piece that was bent. When I saw "china" on it...I knew. Even the long arm bracket has a bow in it. I guess I'm just used to dealing to three decimals at work and we reject things that are out of tolerance by .010" Apparently the Chinese don't own calipers. LOL

I'll switch the bracket around tonight and see how much crow I can fit in my craw.
Click to expand...

it's all good. hopefully, you're in business at this point.

ya, there's no excuse in my book for half-a$$ed instructions that make people guess.
 

PS: if u run short of crow, feel free to come here and take some of mine. PLEASE.
 
(quoted from post at 13:01:30 10/23/17)
I got a gallon of Whataburger Spicy Ketchup at the house. I can choke anything down with that on top. LOL
Click to expand...

The two that I installed on my 8ns really had no instructions to go by at all.
 
Well, I did what I said I wouldn't do, I started cutting and welding. The bracket will not work without modification. I rotated it 90 deg CCW. It would mount that way IF a person docked the corners off the back end of it; however, with the throttle bracket on that head stud, there won't be enough thread left to secure this bracket and the throttle bracket at the same time. Maybe if a guy took the throttle bracket off and milled the bottom off it so that it sets on top of the new bracket. Also, it won't clear the wiring tube...or whatever that thing is called so I hole sawed it.

So, I cut it, welded it back at 90 deg, and made this bastardized thing. The kids were asleep already so I'll grind it and finish it tonight so that I looks better. I did grind the galvanization off before welding, but this alloy welds like schidt. Some sort of high carbon, low oxygen, hydrogen free, non-mercury, Chinesium non-sense.

So, I think it will work, but when I pulled one of the head nuts off, it backed the head stud out and antifreeze went everywhere. Is it possible that it got in the cylinder and should I pull the plug and crank it to make sure it doesn't hydrolock? .....just another extra step in what should have taken an hour to bolt on. I swear. It never ends.


mvphoto5115.jpg
 
I guess I can't figure out how to get the other two pictures posted on here using the "upload photo" thing. Jesus....unbelievable.

Ahhh....its the filesize. I can't just post them from my phone, they are too big. Apparently 2Meg is the limit. Here's the dumb-downed version of the pics.

Adjustment is all the way out...but I think it is about right. I may have to lengthen that bracket too or drill another hole in the hard mounted "L" bracket to move the bolt out a tad.

mvphoto5116.jpg


mvphoto5117.jpg
 

Try moving the lower bracket out to bring the top in. BTW your work looks good... Most I see don't have a top bracket they put a short belt on it and let the manifold be the stop LOL....
 

You can't see it in the image, but I have the lower bracket rotated out and down as much as it will allow me unless I make a new one. The tabs that are bent over on it are bent so close, it barely clears the mounting boss....back to the quality I mentioned earlier. I could make a new one.....*beats head on wall.
 
In this day and age. There is no excuse for companies not to include good instructions with their products that show installing it on an actual tractor with digital photos.

Have you checked Steiner tractor parts for a video? They have how to videos on almost everything.
 
I just checked. Steiner does have a video for a front mount conversion. Their kit uses a different top bracket than the yt? Kit.
 
Got her all done. She will crank but not fire. I opted to install the extra resistor but maybe I need to bypass it and try it. The instructions say "if needed." Well....????? I'm assuming that the new coil doesn't need it but didn't want to risk it and burn it out. I'm assuming that is the problem. Just got an email as I'm typing this from another user confirming that is the issue.

All in all, it went easy. I just couldn't use the bracket without modification due to the set up on this tractor. I also bypassed the generator cut-out relay. It wasn't on any diagrams that I found so it is out of the loop. Now I just need 12V light bulbs. I figured I could just wire the two on the front in series but getting and extra wire between the two appears to be a PITA.

I'm gonna love the speed at which this starter turns now as long as I don't get it too hot. The one thing that I don't understand is... how I can switch the polarity of the starter motor and it not spin backwards? I'm an electrical guy but not an electrical motor guy...as in...I'm not savvy to the ways of the windings and all that magic. Just seems odd to run current backwards and get the same result as before. Am I gonna have 3 reverse gears and 1 forward? LMAO


mvphoto5215.jpg


mvphoto5216.jpg
 
In order to get starter to turn opposite direction, you would need to make current flow in reverse direction in either fields or armature, but not both. This motor has fields and armature in series, so reversing voltage polarity will reverse both. To reverse only one of the two, you would need to re-rwire fields inside the unit.
 

Thanks for the info. I'm pretty savvy until the wires get into the motor. That's out of my wheelhouse. Good to know. Thank you.
 
Hi 4x4dually

You said:
"Now I just need 12V light bulbs. I figured I could just wire the two on the front in series but getting and extra wire between the two appears to be a PITA."

I tried that. Unless the 6V bulbs are an exact match, one will burn brighter, the other dimmer. The brighter one will burn out sooner. My experience was a few seconds. Then when one bulb goes out, both go out, so best to stick with 12V bulbs.

But then of course you already knew that:)

later
deano
 

I didn't think about them burning brighter or dimmer since no two fillaments will be the exact same resistance. You are correct. Ol' Ohm and his laws. LOL

Good call. Mesh analysis is so handy. ;)
 
Removed the extra resistor last night. Tractor fired on the second revolution. This dang thing has NEVER started so fast. Praise the Lord. Very happy with the conversion although I sure thought it was going to be a few hour deal and not a week long deal. Show pigs and basketball kinda got in the way this week.
 
Has anyone tried these LED replacement bulbs for the 12V conversion? Looks to be 7Watts each instead of 36. It would reduce the current draw drastically. They are also rated for 50,000 hrs instead of the halogen's 5000 hrs.

Thoughts? I'm assuming any PAR36 will physically fit in another PAR36's hole.



https://www.usalight.com/US-PAR36-3K-7W-SP-p/PAR36-WW9W-30.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQjwm9vPBRCQARIsABAIQYdVSlCsQtSHgUl-HtE-4G4cAZ7lD6DeISo3E1R9AYn_ZtpRJGNEj7MaAi5KEALw_wcB
 
I ordered from SuperBrightLED.com. I've used their stuff before and have never had any issues with their quality.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/landscape-bulbs/weatherproof-par36-led-bulb-70-watt-equivalent-bi-pin-led-flood-bulb-lan/3647/
 
(quoted from post at 19:38:43 10/30/17) Just curious, but what kind of lights do you have that par 36 bulbs will fit?
Click to expand...

Well...I thought the OEM ones. Lol. I scoured google looking for part numbers of the 12V bulbs and found a cross to a GE bulb and it crossses to these. I figured if a=b, and b=c, then a=c. I guess we will find out in a day or two.
 
Well....wiss up a rope. That's what I get for trusting what I read on the internet. It is not a PAR36, it's a dang PAR46. 5-3/4" Dia x 3.75" deep. And I am having trouble finding any LED's that size. PER-FECT! LOL
 
After going through the Wagner catalog found here:

http://www.fme-cat.com/digipubZ/Wagner-Lighting-Spec-Guide/52AAA586CC974209F9170E0273E14C04/Wagner%20Lighting%20Spec%20Guide%20-%20digipubZ.pdf

I have narrowed down a few selections buy disqualifying anything that was the wrong voltage, too short of life, spot pattern, etc.

It seems any of these will work as a 12V PAR46 replacement.

First choice on paper seems to be the H7612 Fog/Halogen. It seems to be the best bang for the buck comparing the lumens/watt and life expectancy.

Others considered: 4459 (dual element), H7619, 4531, 4413, 4610


I sure can't seem to find an LED in a PAR46 and I really hate to scrap the factory bases for newer crap.

Any recommendations based on experience with these bulbs? I couldn't find any 12 V bulbs on yesterday'stractor's tractor parts page. Did I just miss them or what?
 
Cheapest I've found them. Local NAPA and other auto parts stores want $44+ a bulb for them.

$18.

https://www.bulbamerica.com/products/ge-h7612-lamp-37-5w-12-8v-par46-truck-light-bulb
 
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