KTA Governor repair

Tom RS · Nov 25, 2023

On my 38 KTA, the governor isn't working.
Anything to know before I pull the
assembly out of the block?

53ZBU · Nov 25, 2023

Someone updated it to a new style U governor, I'd pull it out and take the cover with the 4 screws off, hold it and spin it by hand and watch the inner motions and see what it is not doing, they're pretty simple and self explanatory governor and usually you can tell what's wore or stuck.

Duey C · Nov 25, 2023

Only thing I can add is wiggle, jiggle and pull.

molinegb · Nov 25, 2023

9 1/2 times out of 10 it is never governor problem. U or G is the same governor.

T.R.K. · Nov 25, 2023

The pins in the flyweights wear. Back in the '90s when I was fixing them, those pins were still available from Moline parts suppliers.

I used to replace the bushing on the lever that worked the carburetor throttle.

I may be confusing the Z and U governors, but:

If I recall correctly there was a sleeve with a spring inside that had to be free to move back and forth in the housing. The lever from the hand throttle pushed that sleeve inward to increase speed. The spring pushed it back. So it had to move freely. There was a rod that ran through the center of the spring that worked the lever that was connected to the carburetor throttle.

Also look for wear in both the sockets around the ball bearing. (I know this was in the Z governor, I can't remember if it was in the U governor or not.)

Both the operating levers and the finger that pushes the sleeve back are held in place with taper pins. Be sure you drive the pin out from the small end. If in doubt, file both ends flush, then measure the diameter with calipers. It is possible to drive the pin out the wrong way but that creates extra problems with loose levers you will have to deal with.

Tom RS · Nov 26, 2023

OK thanks for the advice. I ve been running it with a straight rod to the carb and it runs fine but I'd like to go back to the governor control if I can.
I know top end RPM was set or rated at 1200?
Is it a big concern if I exceed that on these old engines?

molinegb · Nov 26, 2023

You have used a later manifold with 1 inch throat for a 1942 or later U. By using newer jobber manifold the geometrics of governor linkage will be out.

Tom RS · Nov 26, 2023

Yes I had to modify the flange holes to make the carb studs work.
Sounds like I should just run my throttle as I've been doing w/o governor.
Back to the rpm question. Is running it higher than 1200, say at 1500 a concern. For road travel?

Duey C · Nov 26, 2023

What's the cure for that GB? Change the length of the gov rod to the carb? There's a story behind that perhaps.
Tom, one sure thing can happen overspeeding the FE and KE engines, at the least with original governors is the weights fly out too far and start to rub on the block.
Side note: (I have an FE engine that bears those marks. EXACT SAME FE GOVERNOR. That issue could also happen with the older TW and AE governors that share the gov weights but with worse results since the weights bear against the pot metal housing. Granted, in all situations stuff needs to be wrong enough for it to happen but it sure does.)
Not certain if the same would be true with the U governor.

This post was edited by Duey C on 11/26/2023 at 04:48 pm.

molinegb · Nov 26, 2023

No idea why anyone would run direct to carb. You are running a babbitt motor. Do not over rev or will pound babbitt out.

molinegb · Nov 26, 2023

Have spent many hours trying to explain.......

Tom RS · Nov 26, 2023

I will try to explain why I went direct.
When I finished doing a valve and head job on this motor this past August, it seemed like I had no control on the throttle when I went to start it. I have started and ran it now many times so I feel im getting to know its quiks. So maybe I'll try the governor again as is .
Maybe it will surprise me.

molinegb · Nov 27, 2023

If rod length is wrong you will have no control. It will go full throttle.

molinegb · Nov 27, 2023

Distance between bottom of carb to governor 2 3/4 and rod length 9 3/4

Tom RS · Nov 27, 2023

Thanks for sending.
I see there is a bar and bolt into the block where the linkage connects from the throttle linkage from the rear of the tractor. Mine does not have this.

molinegb · Nov 27, 2023

Original linkage had a small chain rather than solid rod..

MMDEL · Nov 27, 2023

According to your first picture you gov is all screwed up. The arm that the throttle rod is hooked to is hindend backwards. Either some one put it together wrong or there is a pin sheared.
MMDEL

Tom RS · Nov 28, 2023

You're right. I just noticed that.
I guess I've got a lot to look into with
this.
Thanks

molinegb · Nov 28, 2023

Original KT slide type governor.

Duey C · Nov 28, 2023

Or was Tom's governor control lever turned opposite direction simply to keep the "push forward on the throttle" to speed it up?
*The F's and K's push forward on the throttle rod to speed up. Parts book shows the rod on top with the lever. The F, K and M's here would support that.
*The U's pull back on the throttle rod to speed up. Just looked at 1950 UTS, rod is on the bottom of the throttle lever.
GB's pic from Monday seems to support this with the simple flat bell-crank to keep the operator happy.
Pull back, throttle down. Push forward, throttle up.
Nice pics GB. Thank you.
Ooh, I see your M-1 and mine have the automotive choke assy. Neat detail. AND, do you have a pic of the throttle lever on the backside of the M-1? Kinda kidding. I might now what they look like. : - )
Rod length! 9-3/4. GOLD GB. Thank you!

This post was edited by Duey C on 11/28/2023 at 08:52 pm.

KTA Governor repair

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