OK, got it up, NOW won't go down AAAArrrggg.

77amc

New User
Well if you read my other thread (F40 hyd wont go up) I installed a new rebuilt pump with filter (from the older one that didn't have the 'newer' filter) Got it all back together and it goes up fine but now won't go down.
This DVD I got about the rebuilding of the hyd pump and adjustments doesn't show what adjustment does what..
I had the r-leg cover off and the bypass was just a sprayin away..
Took it apart again, adjusted it again according to the vid (WHICH MY DRAFT CONTROL DOESN'T HAVE THE LITTLE DOTS, you can barely make out what is there.) and now i have a knocking wich looked like the cotter pin that holds that sleeve to connect the drive shafts might have been the other way.
TOOK it apart AGAIN and with the cover off there is NO knock. SO I think it is that sleeves pin.

Here's one question, WHICH WAY DOES IT GO?? Little drilled holes to the front or the back? AND what does that little cotter pin do? Just keep it fromsliding back and the tube disengaging the drive shaft right?

The other question is how much spring tension is needed on those two little fingers that actuate the pressure valve on the pump.
The vid says "not that much" (that's just GREAT INFO..) If done to thier instructions, there is about 15-20lbs pull to get them to move. If I loosen the two springs, there is only about 2-3 threads holding the nut on???
In that goofy IT manual, it states about the other adjustment for what is connected to the top mounting point of the 3-pt

This has to be the culprit because the bypass is telling me there is too much pressure.

If there is someone that is KNOWLEDGABLE on these adjustments out there that would like to walk me through this, PLEASE let me know. This tractor is just too heavy to throw..

Thanks again.. ERROl
 
If you give me your email I'll send you some stuff I got from Big Dean that may help. I hope you have high speed internet.

Don
 
There is one thing you can check. Remove the access plate with the dipstick and check that the levers coming down from the lift cover are in front of the control arms coming up from the pump. You usually have to guide them in place through the access hole when reinstalling the lift cover or they will go behind the control arms.

Don
 
(quoted from post at 17:20:08 10/01/08) There is one thing you can check. Remove the access plate with the dipstick and check that the levers coming down from the lift cover are in front of the control arms coming up from the pump. You usually have to guide them in place through the access hole when reinstalling the lift cover or they will go behind the control arms.

Don

FDR, LIke I said in the other threads.. "I tried tickling it too" Maybe I'm the first one to do that! Even with fresh lube..

DON, the Private messege is inop.. Email is [email protected]. (i market Amsoil on the side)
I have dsl, is that ok? OR I can send ya a cd or dvd to send back

According to this Vid, the actuating arms (that touch the valve arm) move the whole range in their perspective slots. I did have to take the arms off to hone the cyl and there is only one way that they go back in so I can't be that far off.

The DRAFT control arm cam doesn't seem to move anything..?? or have much of any tension on it.

NOW another question, What does this upper pivoting point for the 3-pt do? The TI manual said to screw in or out but "not to much" (GREAT INFO again) It doesn't look like it's gonna want to cooperate by the looks of it.


Are these 'top covers' the same for several different models?
Maybe I could get another that's in better shape.?

I'm tired, C-ya Errol
 
Fought this problem myself. Give me a call at 304-825-1264 sometime tonight (2nd) or tomorrow and I can try to talk you through it.

Aaron
 
First off, you need to use that IT Manual for a door stop or fire starter this winter, and get yourself a real original Repair Manual. The IT manuals tells you just enough to get into trouble. Tom
 

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