Well if you read my other thread (F40 hyd wont go up) I installed a new rebuilt pump with filter (from the older one that didn't have the 'newer' filter) Got it all back together and it goes up fine but now won't go down.
This DVD I got about the rebuilding of the hyd pump and adjustments doesn't show what adjustment does what..
I had the r-leg cover off and the bypass was just a sprayin away..
Took it apart again, adjusted it again according to the vid (WHICH MY DRAFT CONTROL DOESN'T HAVE THE LITTLE DOTS, you can barely make out what is there.) and now i have a knocking wich looked like the cotter pin that holds that sleeve to connect the drive shafts might have been the other way.
TOOK it apart AGAIN and with the cover off there is NO knock. SO I think it is that sleeves pin.
Here's one question, WHICH WAY DOES IT GO?? Little drilled holes to the front or the back? AND what does that little cotter pin do? Just keep it fromsliding back and the tube disengaging the drive shaft right?
The other question is how much spring tension is needed on those two little fingers that actuate the pressure valve on the pump.
The vid says "not that much" (that's just GREAT INFO..) If done to thier instructions, there is about 15-20lbs pull to get them to move. If I loosen the two springs, there is only about 2-3 threads holding the nut on???
In that goofy IT manual, it states about the other adjustment for what is connected to the top mounting point of the 3-pt
This has to be the culprit because the bypass is telling me there is too much pressure.
If there is someone that is KNOWLEDGABLE on these adjustments out there that would like to walk me through this, PLEASE let me know. This tractor is just too heavy to throw..
Thanks again.. ERROl
This DVD I got about the rebuilding of the hyd pump and adjustments doesn't show what adjustment does what..
I had the r-leg cover off and the bypass was just a sprayin away..
Took it apart again, adjusted it again according to the vid (WHICH MY DRAFT CONTROL DOESN'T HAVE THE LITTLE DOTS, you can barely make out what is there.) and now i have a knocking wich looked like the cotter pin that holds that sleeve to connect the drive shafts might have been the other way.
TOOK it apart AGAIN and with the cover off there is NO knock. SO I think it is that sleeves pin.
Here's one question, WHICH WAY DOES IT GO?? Little drilled holes to the front or the back? AND what does that little cotter pin do? Just keep it fromsliding back and the tube disengaging the drive shaft right?
The other question is how much spring tension is needed on those two little fingers that actuate the pressure valve on the pump.
The vid says "not that much" (that's just GREAT INFO..) If done to thier instructions, there is about 15-20lbs pull to get them to move. If I loosen the two springs, there is only about 2-3 threads holding the nut on???
In that goofy IT manual, it states about the other adjustment for what is connected to the top mounting point of the 3-pt
This has to be the culprit because the bypass is telling me there is too much pressure.
If there is someone that is KNOWLEDGABLE on these adjustments out there that would like to walk me through this, PLEASE let me know. This tractor is just too heavy to throw..
Thanks again.. ERROl