David, south wales

Hay hay hay

Well-known Member
Do you have Haybobs in your area? If so, How difficult is it to remove the entire dolly wheel apparatus and tire from under the rotor?
Any tricks to it?
Sorry to ask a non-MF question on this forum, but thanks if you can help.
 
Hello, its a long time since I removed a wheel or rotor from a Haybob and as I recall that was on our own one. We had drain covers in one field and I Knew where they were. I think I must have dozed briefly in the heat and lost my direction to avoid one. Next thing BANG.......bent rotor!!!! In general PZ machinery is ultra-reliable to any work needed is rare.
Anyway, back to your question. The T handle is secured by one roll pin. Remove this and the handle and the wheel leg should drop out. This will depend on how free the leg is in the casing. Many people set the pin in the middle hole and leave it there so that the leg seizes over time and has to be driven out. That can be a further problem if you damage the end of the leg it wont pass through the casing. The rotor is retained by the large nut on the top. Hope this helps.
DavidP, South Wales
 
Thanks David. I am trying to install a new tire and wheel on the old Haybob. The bearings are seezed on the axle shaft and no amount of hammering will move it. It is almost impossible to get at it under the haybob with the weed shield behind the axle. So, if I can remove the entire wheel dolly apparatus I can get it in a press to remove the old damaged wheel. The dolly appears to be held in place by a large nut, but it must be splined or keyed or roll pinned to the shaft somehow.
My concern is that the wheel dolly is somehow holding the big drive gear in place and if I take the wheel dolly off, the gear will come out and I will have a bigger mess to fix. Hope my description is of help. Thanks for your feedback.
 
Yes, removal of the wheel leg will certainly make access easier even if you have to cut the tyre off. Check that the two lalves of the tyre rim are not bolted together......something in my mind that they might be. With the wheel leg removed you will need access to a press with a wide enough bed or maybe make up a puller to fit the rim. An alternative might be to drill two opposing holes in the shield allowing you to get a 5/8-3/4 punch through them and onto the wheel rim. Easier and cheaper to repair the shield rather than replace the rim or even the wheel leg.
DavidP
 
Thanks, do you think the wheel leg will come off without loosening the gear stack? If so that is my next alternative. Ofcourse, after 40 years it too may be stuck on the shaft? Ahh the fun of old equipment!
 
You should not need to loosen the big nut. Whilst it remains in the machine you have a degree of stability to work against. Clean any rust that is visible above the nut and file off any burrs that might make it tighter. If you can get a little movement, work in some diesel or spray and be patient whilst you keep it moving and hopefully gain a little more each time.
D
 

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