Distributor problem

Denteen · Feb 9, 2019

I have power to the distributor I can check for spark I have it. The next time I check for spark I don't have any. I have new plugs,plug wire,distributor cap,points,battery. I don't know what the problem could be. Any help with this would be very appreciative. I'm losing my mind. I have a TEA20.

Bob · Feb 9, 2019

If power to the distributor doen't fail, but spark is intermittant, you have "dirty" breaker points that don't make contact reliably, or a poor connection between the distributor's primary terminal and the points.

RARELY, there's a grounding issue somewhere between the stationary point, and the engine block.

Denteen · Feb 9, 2019

Thanks Bob,

Denteen · Feb 9, 2019

I took all the wires off and checked them out, they seem to be fine. I put my old coil back on but first I cleaned all the paint away where it bolts to the block. Checked all the wires. Rolled it over and got spark, then tried it again no spark. There has to be something simple I'm not seeing.

Charles in Aus. · Feb 9, 2019

New points sometimes comes with a film of lacquer on them to stop corrosion . Try filing the faces and washing with alcohol to remove this almost invisible residue . Otherwise , new capacitors are notorious for causing intermittent trouble or are just dead new out of the box .

Denteen · Feb 9, 2019

Ok, I will try anything now. Thanks for
getting back with me. I'm going to take a
break now. This has taken me to my knees.
I have talked to alot of guys about this,
and they are puzzled also. I will let
everyone know if anything works. Thanks
again.

Jerry/MT · Feb 9, 2019

What"s condition is the distributor shaft bushing in? If it"s badly worn you"ll get an intermittent spark because the shaft will wobble changing the dwell.

John Deere D · Feb 9, 2019

Check the amount of side movement of distributor shaft?

Bob...

Bob · Feb 9, 2019

(quoted from post at 15:38:21 02/09/19) I took all the wires off and checked them out, they seem to be fine. I put my old coil back on but first I cleaned all the paint away where it bolts to the block. Checked all the wires. Rolled it over and got spark, then tried it again no spark. There has to be something simple I'm not seeing.

Connect an unpowered test light between the distributor's low-tension terminal and ground, turn on the ignition switch and crank the engine.

What does the light do?

"ON" steady?

Never lights?

(BTW, coil does NOT need to be grounded, but distributor and breaker plate DO.)

Flashes as the points open and close?

Paul V B · Feb 10, 2019

I had same problem with my D17 so I converted to electronic ignition. Runs great now.

Denteen · Feb 10, 2019

If it's on the lobes no light if off
lobes light is on .

Denteen · Feb 10, 2019

No side movement on the distributor, the points do open and shut. Sometimes there is spark

Denteen · Feb 10, 2019

When I turn the key off it sparks on last lobe. But when in holding key on it does not spark.

Denteen · Feb 10, 2019

Should there be any slop on the rotor, I can turn it some in a circle?

Denteen · Feb 10, 2019

I had the key on (on ) there was good spark at the points so I jumped a wiring to the starter. When I did that I had very little spark at the points. I think I'm losing power at the distributor some how . Any ideas????

Denteen · Feb 10, 2019

When the guy put the tractor back together, could he have put the distributor back in at 180* off . Would that make me lose power??

Jim.ME · Feb 10, 2019

The rotor will turn some if you twist it by hand. That would be the travel in the centrifugal advance springs.

Did I understand this right? 1. You have good power to the points when the engine is stopped, sitting there with the key on. 2. With out changing 1, you jump the starter to make it turn the engine over and you lose spark.

A starter can pull system voltage down some, but I wonder about the condition of your battery cables and connections, then the condition of the starter and how much it is drawing. A weak ground could cause good power readings to drop when hit with a surge load, like the starter. Do you have a voltmeter to test the voltage on the ignition wire at the coil, instead of just a test light? The voltmeter will show how much it drops. What is the voltage on the battery cable at the starter when cranking over?

Also I wonder if your switch is getting worn out. Have you tried putting a jumper wire from the battery hot post (I don't see if your positive or negative ground or voltage) to the ignition side of the coil? That would rule out the switch and wiring between it and the coil.

Sorry to repeat this stuff if you have already been through all this, but I didn't see it.

Denteen · Feb 10, 2019

I have 10.6 volts at the starter , but I
only had .6 volts at the coil when trying
to start it with a jumper. So you are
right it must be the key switch. Thanks
a million. I'm going to try to start it
with the jumper. I will let everyone
know what happens.

John Deere D · Feb 10, 2019

Faulty Switch.............?

Denteen · Feb 10, 2019

Put a new switch on, that fixed that problem. Now I can't get gas. What are the settings on a zenith carburetor? And what is the thumb screw in the back for? I would like to thank everyone on all the help. Now it's the carburetor.

Denteen · Feb 10, 2019

I would like to thank everyone who helped me with my distributor problem. It's working the way it should.

Denteen · Feb 12, 2019

i want to thank everyone on my distributor problem . You guys know your stuff. What the problem was , the key ignition . put a different one on and it works . This is my first old tractor. now i have a question , i don't have a compression tester . when i try to start my tractor, it seems like it is turning over hard . i have a new battery in it . now it looks like i'm not getting gas , would that make it turn over hard .

John Deere D · Feb 12, 2019

Remove grounding strap from battery that connects to DASH.

Run as large (Diameter) a battery lead as you can afford from the battery to the BOLT / Fastener that attaches the STARER to the ENGINE.

Make sure ALL connections are sparkly clean in regards to power connections from Battery.

Does your Tractor have a 6 VOLT starter converter to 12 Volts?
Is your Tractor an original factory 12 Volt system or original 6 Volt factory system?

Remove all Spark plugs,place your thumb over the Spark Plug BOSS.

Turn engine over and note if you think there is an equal amount of compression blowing out passed your thumb? If NOT then there could be a problem within the VALVE TRAIN?

Picture off Internet......

I have seen several TEA-20's hesitate on the Starter....the CONTACTS that are in the START SAFETY SWITCH were corroded. This Start Safety Switch is activated when the GEAR SHIFT is placed in the "S" position.

Do you have a HAND CRANK?

Bob...Owner TEA-20 6 Volt...Electrical System...

Denteen · Feb 12, 2019

Thanks for all your help on my tractor . will it have any writing on the starter ? I'm at work now so I can't look at it . The guy I got the tractor from did not tell me all that was wrong with it . But anyways there is a ground cable going to the block . I will check all the plugs with a gauge if I can find one to see what the compression is . Also I bought it with a 12 volt system on it , or should have been . I will take the ground cable off and move it to the bolt you told me about. I don't have anything hooked to the safety switch that is on it , so I shouldn't have to use the starter on the shifter should I ? thanks for the help. I'm trying to find a service manual for my tractor .

John Deere D · Feb 12, 2019

Starter Identification...by mounting orientation.......Factory Installations

Bob...

Denteen · Feb 12, 2019

thanks Bob it is a long one , so it must be a 12 volt starter

Distributor problem

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Member

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Similar threads