DavidP, I need your help...

Chip812 · Sep 12, 2013

Can you post a picture of a rear oil seal (or send me a link to a web page or something)? I'm finding some of these people don't know what they're talking about or can't figure out what I'm talking about... so frustrating... Or [i:b05cd1e073][b:b05cd1e073]anybody[/b:b05cd1e073][/i:b05cd1e073]? Help!

1961 MF35 AD3.152 Perkins

P.S. I've been told it is a two part, fiber seal. I've been told it is a 'traditional' rubber with steel enclosed seal. I've been told it is a one-piece, rope-looking, old-time-ee seal...

samn40 · Sep 12, 2013

Maybe I can butt in here until David can post a picture?....The
older Perkins engines had a two piece rope seal. the alloy
housing was in two halves each half held on with 3 short bolts
into the rear of the engine casing with just enough room
between the casing and the crank-shaft flange to get them out!
You need to soak a new seal in engine oil for at least 24 hours
before fitting and use a round piece of dowelling to roll each half
of the seal into the alloy housing before fitting. Never ever trim
the rope seal. Tighten the 2 long clamping bolts on either side of
the housings before tightening the 6 mounting bolts (3 in each
half) and a smear of sealer on the mating surfaces will help. The
later engines....mostly with a 4 bolt fuel lift pump mounting.
used a one piece rubber lip seal. The rear of the crank was not
stepped but parallel to accept this seal...Everything was different
and will not interchange, including the sump. Your tractor will
have the rope seal as it is 1961, the lip seal started around
1974...ish?
Hope that helps.....Sam

mike paulson · Sep 12, 2013

The only reason I can see for you wanting to know what kind of seal you have is because its leaking. Then why not just rip it apart and see for yourself, rubber, rope or chicken feathers its gotta be changed right. Then when you get it apart just go and get ya one and throw it on in. It's all available stuff.

Chip812 · Sep 12, 2013

(quoted from post at 18:03:06 09/12/13) The only reason I can see for you wanting to know what kind of seal you have is because its leaking. Then why not just rip it apart and see for yourself, rubber, rope or chicken feathers its gotta be changed right. Then when you get it apart just go and get ya one and throw it on in. It's all available stuff.

Because I'm likely not doing the work myself. I want to deliver my tractor and the proper seal at the same time.

Chip812 · Sep 12, 2013

(quoted from post at 17:21:47 09/12/13) Maybe I can butt in here until David can post a picture?....The
older Perkins engines had a two piece rope seal. the alloy
housing was in two halves each half held on with 3 short bolts
into the rear of the engine casing with just enough room
between the casing and the crank-shaft flange to get them out!
You need to soak a new seal in engine oil for at least 24 hours
before fitting and use a round piece of dowelling to roll each half
of the seal into the alloy housing before fitting. Never ever trim
the rope seal. Tighten the 2 long clamping bolts on either side of
the housings before tightening the 6 mounting bolts (3 in each
half) and a smear of sealer on the mating surfaces will help. The
later engines....mostly with a 4 bolt fuel lift pump mounting.
used a one piece rubber lip seal. The rear of the crank was not
stepped but parallel to accept this seal...Everything was different
and will not interchange, including the sump. Your tractor will
have the rope seal as it is 1961, the lip seal started around
1974...ish?
Hope that helps.....Sam

Thanks, Sam...
Still not sure what a 'rope' seal looks like, but from the description, I assume it is one piece and there are two metal 'brackets' that hold it in place. I'm not having any luck locating the proper seal. My AGCO parts guy tries, but for some reason, can't come up with the correct part number (that I got from DavidP).

Chip812 · Sep 12, 2013

(quoted from post at 18:03:06 09/12/13) The only reason I can see for you wanting to know what kind of seal you have is because its leaking. Then why not just rip it apart and see for yourself, rubber, rope or chicken feathers its gotta be changed right. Then when you get it apart just go and get ya one and throw it on in. It's all available stuff.

Mike, you may be on to something there. Just heard from the Accounting Department that we, currently, do not have enough liquid assets to have this done. May have to do it myself... Over the winter (because I ain't got a lot of time for stuff like this, even though I enjoy the heck out of it)... Oh well, off to start cleaning out a spot in the garage... I hope she doesn't mind getting into a cold car this winter... hehehehehe....

Tony in Mass. · Sep 12, 2013

OK.... how familiar are you with salt water? Pirates? no parrot on your shoulder matie??? know how to build wooden ships? A twine rope called oakum, a huge mallet, a wide chisel, eventually the planks are watertight although it doesn't seem possible.
... I use a short piece of 1/8" welding rod and a small brass hammer, a can of beer and allow a couple hours. The perfect job of installing the rope seal is to have very little left from the length of twine in the kit. Hey search rope seal in the archives here and Fergie forum. There was a long thread about this a couple months ago. People debating whether or not to soak the twine with oil, rtv etc- or nothing?
Here's another off the wall idea. While- if the engine is split, prop it up with lumber underneath, wooden wedges to keep it upright... while it sits there and runs a few hours before you go thru the whole ritual of mating up to the clutch again...

Anonymous-0 · Sep 12, 2013

1961 would be an indirect injection A3-152 or 3A-
152. The AD3-152 came out in limited quantity in
1963 in the 35X but really came to be in 1964/65 in
the 135. Perkins 3 cylinders are legendary for their
durability and fuel efficiency.

samn40 · Sep 13, 2013

I hope David doesn't mind me chipping in again? ....I simply went to yahoo images and put in Perkins rope seal kit and got you these pics...... top one is the two halves of the fixing bracket, bolted together and the bottom pic is the two halves of the rope seals.... Hope that helps
Sam
Ps You will be able to get these seal in the US or even on this site. If
you are stuck I can send them from the UK, jUST DROP ME AN
EMAIL.

Chip812 · Sep 13, 2013

(quoted from post at 21:42:42 09/12/13) OK.... how familiar are you with salt water? Pirates? no parrot on your shoulder matie??? know how to build wooden ships? A twine rope called oakum, a huge mallet, a wide chisel, eventually the planks are watertight although it doesn't seem possible.
... I use a short piece of 1/8" welding rod and a small brass hammer, a can of beer and allow a couple hours. The perfect job of installing the rope seal is to have very little left from the length of twine in the kit. Hey search rope seal in the archives here and Fergie forum. There was a long thread about this a couple months ago. People debating whether or not to soak the twine with oil, rtv etc- or nothing?
Here's another off the wall idea. While- if the engine is split, prop it up with lumber underneath, wooden wedges to keep it upright... while it sits there and runs a few hours before you go thru the whole ritual of mating up to the clutch again...

Awesome idea Tony, thanks... Since I'll probably end up doing this split myself (virgin splitter), I'm gonna need all the help and advice I can get... Hopefully, most of it won't be contradictory (or confusing)... LOL!

Chip812 · Sep 13, 2013

(quoted from post at 23:36:00 09/12/13) 1961 would be an indirect injection A3-152 or 3A-
152. The AD3-152 came out in limited quantity in
1963 in the 35X but really came to be in 1964/65 in
the 135. Perkins 3 cylinders are legendary for their
durability and fuel efficiency.

See, my problem is I don't know [b:ad7d2beda8]EXACTLY[/b:ad7d2beda8] what year my tractor is. All I can go by is the casting dates on the parts (which is 1961)... So I know it can't be any OLDER than that, but it can be newer (probably not by much). [casting dates on pieces on front and back of tractor are consistent and within a few months of each other, so I don't think it is a 1961 rear-end mated to an earlier (or later) model.] It is also a DELUXE model based on some of the features (I assume that 35X = DELUXE)...

Chip812 · Sep 13, 2013

(quoted from post at 02:12:07 09/13/13) ...

This is one of the types I was seeing as an option. I guess I'm just going to have to split it and see exactly what it has/needs before I order it... It always seems to come down to a trade off between time and money...

Tony in Mass. · Sep 13, 2013

Good news.. and more good news. Sam's pic shows that this is 'rope' but formed in a half circle and stiff as a dead rat, rather than the rope seals in a continental kit, which is just meat cutter's string... then you'd need the welding rod and beer. This will be a sinch.. except the split yeah. OK, you must have gear head friends and neighbors? They don't need to be MF or even tractor experienced, just a guy who has pulled engines and done clutches before, model A or muscle cars, the basic process is the same.. again, search archives here and fergie forum for splits, clutch, how ever we worded it...
I hate to sound dismal.. but as these guys say, this is suppose to be a bullet proof unstoppable engine... so.. you need to find out what started this leak. The last repair, faulty part, hopefully nothing worse than that. Good luck!

Chip812 · Sep 13, 2013

Thanks, Tony... Yeah, I've pulled transmissions out of my own cars before... I don't like it. They are heavy and it hurts when they land on your chest or, even worse, your hand... I had to do it multiple times (I was young, kept busting the transmission) and it is really hard to do when one hand is broken. Wrenching is fun when it goes right and not so much when it don't. One of the things I [i:b1bbb7c2be][b:b1bbb7c2be]REALLY[/b:b1bbb7c2be][/i:b1bbb7c2be] don't like is trying to get the clutch to line back up... And you need special tools for the whole thing... And I don't have a splitting stand... etc, etc, etc...

DavidP, I need your help...

Chip812

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samn40

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mike paulson

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Chip812

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Tony in Mass.

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Anonymous-0

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samn40

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Chip812

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Tony in Mass.

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