Couple Questions on MF135

Last year or so, my 135 has been hard to start. Even having to choke it during nice weather. Had the carb rebuilt (It would leak gas from time to time) and installed it last night. Didn't help much. What else can i look at to help.
Also, this tractor has a loader on it the runs off a front pump. I plan to take the loader off, but keep the pump to run some remote hyd. since the tractor isn't equiped with any. Wonder what would be the best way to plumb the pump. Been thinking of running a supply line from the rear end to the pump then from the pump to they Hyd. valves then return to the rear end. Only noticed one possible place to plumb into the rear end, and that looks to be the drain plug. Would like your guys opinion (Pics would be helpfull) Figure this would be cheaper than getting the after market peices to run of the internal pump for the 3-point pump.
 
You may want to remove the top cover of the tranny & rear end to do this but this is what I did to mine: First be sure of where you are drilling so you don"t damage anything inside, then drill and tap 2 holes low on the right side of the trans case. 1" NPT thread. Then plumb your pump suction to 1 and return from control valve to the other. It has been working great for me for years. The side of the case is about 3/8 thick so you can get plenty thread to seal the pipe in it.
 
Correction to my original posting on this topic: The holes are in the rear housing just ahead of the round dipstick cover.
 
make sure the cab float level is set correctly. Whoever rebuilt it should have done that correctly. Shut the tank valve when the tractor is not being used toquit from losing your expnsive fuel.

When you remove the loader you"ll generally need a reservior to use the front pump. If you want to use the tractors sumps for a reservior, you"ll most likely have to tap the bottom of the sump for the front pump supply. If you tractor has access holes on the side of the tractor hydraulic compartment, you can drill and tap one of them for a return line. just some thoughts.
 
I plumbed in the hydraulics on our 165 through the PTO plate. I used a 90* JIC bulkhead union to pull the suction(a 90 fitting inside to drop it down into the oil), and another fitting for the return that puts it in below the oil to prevent foaming.

The tricky part is to make sure it clears all of the stuff inside, including the PTO shifter and gears.

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Here is a lnk to more pictures of what I did.

http://s209.photobucket.com/albums/bb41/djn125/165 hydraulics/?start=all

Donovan from Wisconsin
 

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