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Degree of Difficulty

C

Charles Park

Member
Posted a message several days ago about sleeves in a diesel motor. Response was I should rebuild. Have some friends willing to help with the project but they have experience in gas motors.

How difficult is it to remove the sleeves? Then the rebuild aspect? Any help or thought would be appreciated.
 
I just removed the sleeves out of my MF50 today. It was a breeze. I pushed the pistons up with a piece of wood. Two of the sleeves came out with the pistons. One came about half way out. I was able to pull it out by hand from the top.
 
Thanks. I would like to have some contact information for you. Now that you have done this what is the next step? Do you take the block for machine shop work or what?
 
I've got to order a rebuild kit. One piston had the compression ring grooves out of tolerance, one was at the maximum tolerance, and the third was OK.

No machine work should be necessary on the block. I'll just chill the new sleeves in the freezer, lightly coat with oil and slide them in.
 
There are no sleeve o-rings in Perkins 3.152 engines. The manual says to use a light coating of motor oil or dry. I split the difference and use a thin machine oil.
 
GeorgiaMF,

I did a rebuild on a MF65 Perkins diesel last summer the rings had colapsed, one sleeve came out like you discribed. When I assembled the engine that was the only sleeve I was able to install easy, unfortunately that sleeve sucked down into the crank shaft after about 5 hours run time. I found that these sleeve should have a slight press fit to them. I needed to use a permatext sleeve retainer PX#64040. I now have around 75 hours with no problems.
 
I'll have to keep that in mind, although, I've never had that problem. I wonder if the sleeves or bore were out of tolerance?
 
Charles,

The old sleeve are not the problem, there are a few ways to remove the sleeve. If they a tight some recommend using a stick welder and running the welder quickly up the length of the sleeve (taking care to not burn through the sleeve) in a few rows. This is a risky method. I took a hardwood dowel and small sludge hammer and drove them out. You might splinter the dowel but you won't damage the bore. The hard part is installing the sleeves. To do this you can take dry ice and chill them I did not have any luck this way. What I ended up doing was to use a length of althread (3/4-10),a section of draw bar and a flat plate larger than the O.D. of the sleeve with a hole through it for the althread. I use this rig to pull the sleeve into the block. These sleeves are fragile the chrome sleeve can bend or colapse and the cast one crack. I did not crack the cast one using the puller but did when I used the dry ice method. I hope this helps, good luck.
 
If the new sleeves are a very tight fit, it is a good idea to chill them well before putting them in. I found that plugging in the block heater for a few hours, or until block is nice and warm also was helpful. Make sure you have enough water in the block so you don't fry the block heater. To do a proper overhaul you should inspect the crankshaft and shells, oil pump, wrist pin bushings, to be safe it is a good practice to look closely at the crankshaft seals and if you have any doubt about them, now is the time to replace. Most times the head needs to be looked at as well, valve, seat, guide condition, also check for straightness. If the injectors have been in for a long time since they were last checked, now is a good time to check the spray pattern and cracking/drip pressures. Is the water pump nice and tight and doesn't growl when it turns? You should have a manual so you get the torques, sleeve protrusion, and valve adjustments, etc. right. Be careful not to nick to crank when you push the pistons/rods down. Make sure you clean everything well. Good luck
Bruce
 
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