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4020 - Fuel transfer pump repair?

G

Glen D Anderson

Member
Good evening,


Found the old transfer pump off of our '65 4020 hiding "under the bench" while cleaning up today.

I recall reading some comments awhile back about preferring to rebuild the old style pumps over using the "sub to" RE42211 crimped / throwaway style pump.

Just checking to see if that's still the case or?



mvphoto74811.jpg


mvphoto74812.jpg
 
The thing about those old pumps is they
won't leave you stranded. If it goes out
in the middle of planting a hundred
acres field you can get back going in
twenty minutes with just a scrap piece
of inner tube. Of course you can get the
proper material for longevity but in a
pinch the plain old rubber tube will
suffice. BTDT many times in the old
days.
 
The pump you have pictured is a replacement pump not an original. The originals had a glass bowl on the top. There were some new replacements made like the originals on Ebay a few years ago and I got one or two. They seem to work fine. Tom
 
I recently purchased the pump that Glen pictured for about $50 to replace what I believe was the original glass bowl lift pump that
went bad. Its installed and works fine. I cant believe I will get 59 years of service out of the new one like I did from the
glass bowl one, BUT if you can buy a new one for $50 and the rebuild kits are over $100, I ll buy the new one. All that being said, like Glen, I stashed the old glass bowl pump under the work bench. Is there any value to the old pump or is the dumpster its final destination?
 
Thanks for the replies.


The reason I asked about rebuilding the old pump was that we had 3 failures of the new style non-repairable RE42211 pumps in row. Be lucky if we got a year's service out of each of them before they started leaking externally.

That said, I don't want to jinx myself but the last pump we installed was 2 years ago and so far, so good. Maybe the manufacturer built a bad batch and we were unlucky enough to get 3 of them?

Not too keen on paying double, let alone $180, for the cost of a rebuild kit VS new providing the new pumps stand up. I guess if the new pumps start failing prematurely again I'll revisit this.

Deiseltech, the idea of eliminating the pump altogether is interesting & I assume that you wouldn't suggest it if it wasn't a feasible option however the one downside I see is the loss of the manual priming function that comes in handy when changing filters or after opening the system for repairs.
 
The injection pump has a vane pump inside to pressurize the hydraulic head, and advance if fitted. It will pull a vacuum to draw fuel through the filters, and several
other makes with larger engines run fine, even with fuel tank BELOW the injection pump once system is primed with the and primer if used. Some models also work with
gravity only, no hand primer. Long as good filter service is done, no supply pump is one more leak problem that goes away. I'm planning on building a JD 4020 Power Shift
for the next tractor drive toy, and the supply pump will not be used.
Stanadyne/Roosa pumps used on AC, IH, Ford, MM, some Oliver, and White came from factory with no supply pump..
 
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