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WY JERRY 02-25-2013 06:25:28 72.21.72.104 Report to Moderator	I have a 41 B. The splines of the crankshaft where the clutch driver mounts are worn pretty bad. Can these be built up and re-machined? Would a machine shop need the original specs for the splines, and how would I get that info? Does someone know who does this kind of work? Or do I need to find a replacement crank, or give up on this tractor? It also has wear in the cylinder block, but has never been bored out. How much wear can you get away with, or where do you get .045 over pistons? These are my two major issues, the rest of the tractor seems to be all there and in decent shape. I don't mind spending some money on it, but it is just a hobby and I wont be 'working' it, so there does come a point where the expense is no longer justified. Any advice/opinions on what I might do? [Reply]   [No Email]
gtx1967jewison 02-25-2013 17:42:24 174.254.241.142 Report to Moderator	Re: Crankshaft splines options in reply to WY JERRY, 02-25-2013 06:25:28   There is one guy repairing them properly, advertises in green Magazine. Cost is $450 per end, whether its the flywheel end or the clutch end. A good crank & clutch driver can be had for $150-$200. Lots of them. Plenty have been simply mig welded & hand grinder/ filed to work.   [Reply]  [No Email]
Rwolfejr 02-25-2013 13:14:04 67.163.184.160 Report to Moderator	Re: Crankshaft splines options in reply to WY JERRY, 02-25-2013 06:25:28   Don't know about the B's but the R's 820's etc. are all a tapered spline on the clutch driver assembly. I would GUESS... that you should be able to come home with the splines you have but it would reposition your driver by whatever amount you're worn. If the tapered pair won't come home and lock up you need to see what is causing them to not go all the way home. Could be that a slight counter bore on the driver might allow the pair to smack up tight. Then you'd need to look at the assembly and see what effect that slighly different home point might cause for other components. For example it might have the driver running into the main bearing housing? Might need to dust the face and run the seal bore in a bit? I really doubt it'd move that far and would guess you'd be fine. The other option for a "once in a while" tractor... Would be to make shims for one side of each spline with bent tabs at the bolt down end. (To try to help them from being completely sucked in when tightening) Start the driver on loose... Stuff thin beer can shims along one side / same side of each tooth.... shims cut tapered so they don't hit the root (small diameter at the crank direction of the spline) of the splines... then run it home. Shim is a wonderful thing... !!   [Reply]  [No Email]
husker44a 02-25-2013 12:49:47 199.47.66.58 Report to Moderator	Re: Crankshaft splines options in reply to WY JERRY, 02-25-2013 06:25:28   I will correct myself on that Mark. I was thinking clutch driver but said flywheel. New clutch driver would be used in his case. Thanks.   [Reply]  [No Email]
husker44a 02-25-2013 08:01:02 199.47.66.58 Report to Moderator	Re: Crankshaft splines options in reply to WY JERRY, 02-25-2013 06:25:28   I've heard of crank splines being built-up and then put in a milling machine then cut the new splines. OR you can use a taper-lock flywheel. Which can get pricey. As for the over size pistons. Look here on YTMAG. Use Google too. Lots of places sell oversized pistons. Try oldjdforyou dot com or Steiners dot com . Good luck.   [Reply]  [No Email]
Mark-Ia 02-25-2013 11:24:36 207.177.117.7 Report to Moderator	Re: Crankshaft splines options in reply to husker44a, 02-25-2013 08:01:02   A taper-lock flywheel won't work for a clutch driver.   [Reply]  [No Email]