Topic: Re: 820 valve setting
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Hi again Toby,
Another thing to add to this since seeing that you were the guy with the injector sleeve issues and all...
Make sure you get back in there and re-torque ALL the head bolts after you've had a few heat up and cool down cycles. Two re-torques would be better yet. Second re-torque you could probably skip the bolts in the injector compartment. I've never had them move after the first re-torque.
Also... all the more reason not to get to worked up about your initial rocker clearance numbers as the rocker assembly will be coming back off at least once. And you'll need to re-set them anyway. If you keep pushrods and orientation all the same you're first setting should be good when you go and re-check them.
Also when tightening the towers and rocker assembly... You don't need to go with head torque on those bolts. I forget what head torque is right off? Something around 175-ish? whatever it is (check your book as it sounds like you do indeed have one) ... I'd suggest you back off on the bolts holding the rocker assembly on. It is possible to crush the towers and crack them at the gapped area where they grab the rocker shaft. (hmmm... how do I know that one...?) They don't need to be super tight. Also... I seem to recall not being able to find the recommended torque for those two bolts. They don't have the job to do that the head nuts do. Just give 'em a good healthy grunt with a half inch ratchet and no cheater bar on it and you'll be good to go. If you torque to same as head nuts with your big 3 foot torque wrench you'll have a good chance of craking the towers.
Last but not least... don't permatex your cover gaskets until you've done your re-torques. I've used my old gaskets in the past until I'm happy with my re-torques then put the new ones on and goop them up.
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