4020 D injection pump removal

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Looks like I may be removing the injection pump for a rebuild on my 67 4020d. Was wondering which rigid lines have to be disconnected to be able to pull the pump up high enough the clear the housing.

I plan to remove the supply line from the pump to the filters and unhook the return line at the pump. Can I leave the injector lines connected to the pump and just disconnect these lines at the injectors and have enough wiggle room to get the pump out? There is also a small rubber hose from the oil cooler to the head that may be in the way. Should I remove that piece of hose?
 
Don't forget to "time" it first,,then to remove it you can get by with removing the #6-5-4 lines to gain clearance to lift it out,,but try not to bend the lines it makes them tough to re-install, and can damage them,,like the old man said "The hurryer you go, the behinder you get"
 
Like Tim says.

I just removed all the lines on mine, it is much easier than trying to force anything out. I would take the injectors in with the pump and have them checked out.

Make sure to keep the lines CLEAN.

I would try to get brass compression washers for the seals on the lines going out of the pump. The steel ones can be a bear to get sealed and stay sealed.
 
David,

Did you remove the lines going out to the injectors one at a time or did you leave the brackets that bind various lines together and remove them as a unit. I do not at the moment see a way to remove them as a unit since there are things that appear to be in the way.
 
The only way you can remove them in one 'chunk' is by removing the top of the oil cooler, to gain room to lift them off...
 
Thanks Tim.

So you remove the metal brackets that bind the lines together running out to the injector and then disconnect the lines on both ends and remove them, right?

Do you remove the return line completely or just disconnect it from the pump and hold it out of the way while lifting the pump out?

Just trying not to remove anything that is not necessary...
 
Yes just hold the return line over to the side,,try not to jiggle them too much as the rubber boots will crack, actually it would be good to remove the injectors and have them tested also, and then use new boots going back together they can fail and shot your afternoon in the foot...
 
I would also have the pump turned up about 10%, makes a world of difference in power, but does not smoke. Most shops will go up to 20% over.
 
I replaced those aggravating boots about 6 months ago when one cracked and started leaking. Replacing the boot was not near as aggravating as trying to put those clips back on to hold the boots. There must be a special tool for those things.

Can I remove the return line at the pump and blow some air up it back to the fuel tank to clean it out or will that hurt the injectors?
 
There is a special tool for installing the clamps on the injector boots. It consist of a pair of ordinary pliers with the jaws notched out to hold the clamp ends. Works well. Bought mine at NAPA.
 

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