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travz500 10-30-2009 19:12:03 138.210.230.84 341570 Report to Moderator	i know it is cheaper to rebuild myself but is it better to buy a rebuilt or new pump or just get the kit with the impellor and rebuild it i did one on a 4040 about 5 years ago not that bad if you have press [Reply]   [No Email]
Jim Knapp 11-01-2009 05:21:07 67.54.153.115 341672 Report to Moderator	Re: 4010 water pump rebuild or replace in reply to travz500, 10-30-2009 19:12:03   Radiator can be removed from 10-20 series tractors in less than 45 minutes. Saves lots of skin and possible rediator damage. Have always had dealership rebuild. Used to do them when I worked at a dealership in about 65. When waterpump went out on a Allis 301 diesel on a "F" Gleaner, two Allis dealers said the pump couldn"y be rebuilt without breaking it. Buy a new one for $400. Older man who used to be a Allis dealer said "sure, bring it over". He fixed it for $45.   [Reply]   [Send Email]
Gerald J. 10-31-2009 07:26:17 70.215.170.65 341606 Report to Moderator	Re: 4010 water pump. it is possible to mess it up in reply to travz500, 10-30-2009 19:12:03   I know from experience on my '68 4020 gas. First thing tried a pump from NAPA. Came with the wrong fittings for the bypass line, no good way to connect it. Sent it back asked for the right one. None to be had, none in the "system" of that model. So I bought the rebuilding kit and put it in carefully. Mounted the pump, soon as I filled the radiator, it passed water faster than before. So I pulled it apart. I had crunched the ceramic seal ring. Took it to a Deere shop. By then I'd also bought a new pulley since it was badly worn. Their guru put it together in a couple minutes. And NO measurements. I got in the truck and tried the new pulley. It had an air space at the flange when the pulley hit the casting solidly. Back to the Deere shop. Gear puller attachment for the press was broken so it took an hour to pull the flange out a quarter inch with an ordinary gear puller and pieces. Got it on the tractor (by now I've decimated the dealer's supply of water pump gaskets), wouldn't turn because the impeller was against the block. Took it off. pushed the impeller on a bit and made a new gasket from heavier gasket material. Worked fine ever since. Yes it turned more stiffly, but clearing the block was an absolute necessity. Also after that last built, I clamped it to a flat metal sheet with a gasket and filled it with water and watched it for a week to see if it still leaked. But it was a long hassle and I did all the pump swaps with the radiator in place. Working past the spot where the alternator had been, taken off for the water pump change. I hope to not do any more 4020 water pumps. I left flesh from my right hand in the radiator. Gerald J.   [Reply]   [No Email]
Tim S 10-31-2009 07:59:14 99.159.254.62 341611 Report to Moderator	Re: 4010 water pump. it is possible to mess it up in reply to Gerald J., 10-31-2009 07:26:17   Yes, I've heard this story many times. When I get started on re-building one the "first" thing I do is take a paint stick and make a mark on the houseing and measure from the hub to the mark and write it down,(If I'm takeing it off the tractor I 'eye' the belts and see if the pully is running 'true',if not I make the adjustment to my measurement so it 'will' run true when it goes back on)again you don't know if the last guy to re-build it checked the measurement. If I'm takeing it off, the radiator gets pulled, there is a large chance of makeing a hole in the close quarters, and it hurts less, If the custumer is not in a hurry it's a good time to send it to the radiator shop for a flush and clean.   [Reply]   [No Email]
Gerald J. 10-31-2009 10:46:04 70.219.230.126 341618 Report to Moderator	Re: 4010 water pump. it is possible to mess it up in reply to Tim S, 10-31-2009 07:59:14   It definitely would hurt less to remove the radiator, but that takes removing the hood and a couple OLD radiator hoses that probably should be replaced anyway. I think I finally learned to slip a sheet of cardboard between the fan hub and the radiator to save some of that flesh the radiator was otherwise gathering. I think I did that one water pump four times and it took just the right position to slide in from the right and not cut the gasket. Gerald J.   [Reply]   [No Email]
John Heine 10-31-2009 01:47:18 71.97.179.120 341593 Report to Moderator	Re: 4010 water pump rebuild or replace in reply to travz500, 10-30-2009 19:12:03   We always rebuilt our pumps.Did not put a new fan hub on everytime.I used to get sick of rebuilding them.A lot cheaper than new pump.   [Reply]   [Send Email]
Tim S 10-31-2009 06:54:44 99.159.254.62 341604 Report to Moderator	Re: 4010 water pump rebuild or replace in reply to John Heine, 10-31-2009 01:47:18   There are times when I'll do 4 or 5 a week,,then go for a week or two before another one comes in, I do a lot of 'walk-ins', They'er not bad to do once in a while you get a "real" tight one. The 2 cyl. ones are kinda ornery to do. Seeing a few fan hubs draw off the shaft and sending them through the radiator made me nervuos, some of these are pricey, so thats why I got in the habit of the new hub thing, mainly because I had no idea how many times it had been re-built in the past, I have had a few hubs split when pressing them off also, but a couple of those times I may have had the threaded holes in line with the press plates, which is a weak point...   [Reply]   [No Email]
Tim S 10-30-2009 19:20:43 99.159.254.62 341573 Report to Moderator	Re: 4010 water pump rebuild or replace in reply to travz500, 10-30-2009 19:12:03   I re-build a lot of them, if the houseing's not wore bad they work out good, I would change the fan hub, you don't know how many times it has been pressed on and off, I have seen they suck off the shaft and send the fan through the radator, I always figure one in with the parts, just to be safe..you will need the water pump casting number to get the correct kit..   [Reply]   [No Email]