4020 D wont start

Since were are talking about things starting, or not as the case may be. Its a 1971 4020D. I started it friday morning at daylight, about 28 degrees power was allready out so with a little whiff of ether it took off. It ran the gen. untill early saturday afternoon vitrually non stop. The power came back on so I backed the gen. in the cattle shed and took the tractor over to the diesel barrel to fuel up again in case of more power outages. I filled the tank then went on to other jobs for a couple hours and when I tried to move it, it wouldnt start, not even with ether.
I didnt have time fool with it, so it is still at the fuel barrel. I put the 1086 on the gen. where it sat for the next 38 hours and spent the folowing day fighting cold weather, -5, high winds 30 plus mph, and no power at the farm where the cows are, had to haul water to them.
It was about 30 degrees when I shut it off at the fuel barrel, I treated the fuel with anti gell when I put it in the tractor. The fuel shut off on the pump sounds like it is working. It ran fine when I shut it off. Do those glass filters freeze up that easy? How about those transfer pumps? I am going to try to get it going tomorrow so where do you guys think I should start?
bill

Are you getting any smoke when you try to start it? If not it is a lack of fuel problem. If it smokes but will not fire , it is too cold.

No smoke to speak of, except it seemed to when I put ether in it. The block was still warm when I was cranking on it.
bill

What is the "cloud point" of the fuel you are using, vs. the ambient temperature?

Does it "run" on ether and die or just nothing but roll over? If its not running at all on ether then something is going on, compression and turning over is all it needs to fire on ether, staying running after is another story.

my 7020 did that the other day but i hasd found a harness that was not letting my fuel pump work,is your tank outlet stopped up?take the line loose and blow thru it ,might not be dropping fuel out to the pump

Bill,

If you can get it, pour a bottle of Howes fuel conditioner(with anti-gel)into the fuel tank, then fill a new fuel filter completely with the fuel conditoner and install it while spilling as little as possible. Re-prime the filter housing and try starting the engine.............

*NOTICE* You NEED to use a fuel conditioner with antigel NOT a straight anti-gel additive since anti-gel additives have 0% lubricity and can cause major fuel system component damage if used in concentrated form..........

FYI, We've been using the Howes trick for years on mechanical engines AND newer electronic engines with unit injectors for gelling issues with NO problems at all.............

As for checking the fuel transfer pump, crank the engine over for a bit(10 seconds) with the fuel filter off. If fuel shoots out of the side of the filter housing, the pump should be good and will indicate that the fuel line between the tank and pump is clear...............