Author	[Modern View]
Fritz Maurer 09-24-2012 18:58:53 216.137.137.45 Report to Moderator	When the hub is seized to the axle, how can the rear wheel be removed? I have a 76 Cadet, a Cadet 60, and an early MTD, all stuck. Thanks, Fritz [Reply]   [No Email]
t.r.k. 09-25-2012 09:19:44 70.61.106.182 Report to Moderator	Re: 76 Cadet and others with keyed rear rims in reply to Fritz Maurer, 09-24-2012 18:58:53   Don't beat on the inside of it! You will really be in trouble if the snap ring inside the tranny lets go. You don't say why you need the wheel off. If you are just repairing the tire, fix it right there on the mower. You are gonna have to pry on the tire anyhow and the mower will help hold the rim down.   [Reply]  [No Email]
ShadetreeRet 09-24-2012 21:18:42 184.4.21.191 Report to Moderator	Re: 76 Cadet and others with keyed rear rims in reply to Fritz Maurer, 09-24-2012 18:58:53   Rear hubs can be a real PITA! It takes a lot of P&P. (Patience and Penetrating oil). And as referred to, using a little good old American ingenuity, one can often make a puller or other necessary tool that will work.   [Reply]  [No Email]
MNGB 09-24-2012 20:36:12 67.230.224.205 Report to Moderator	Re: 76 Cadet and others with keyed rear rims in reply to Fritz Maurer, 09-24-2012 18:58:53   On the Sears Suburban the hub is slotted with a 3/8" bolt clamping the hub to the axle, I soaked liberally with penetrating oil and then carefully drove a chisel into the slot to open the hub some and used a wheel puller, took some effort but it came off.   [Reply]  [No Email]
rustyj14 09-24-2012 20:32:22 108.39.209.74 Report to Moderator	Re: 76 Cadet and others with keyed rear rims in reply to Fritz Maurer, 09-24-2012 18:58:53   I have seen, on the internet, a rear wheel puller made by somebody who fixes the tires on those back wheels. To wit: They made two inch thick steel bars to fit across the back of the rim with enough sticking out to have holes drilled in the ends of the steel bars., then they made a steel plate, with an adjustable screw/bolt in the center of it. They welded bars onto the steel plate, then used the plate on the outside of the wheel. Those bars are drilled, too, to accept the large, long steel bolts that hold the whole mess together. In the center of the plate , they drilled a hole, and welded a nut to fit the center bolt in the plate, and that bolt is tightened against the axle stub that sticks out of the wheel. A caution about hammering on the end of the axle!!! It will swell up, and you will never get the wheel off the axle. BT/DT! The inventors say to tighten the center bolt very tight, then apply PB Blaster liberally, and let it sit overnight. I'd also apply heat to the wheel hub. I'd try building that puller, but i'm not going to be doing this stuff for veey much longer. And anything that comes in now had better not need the rear wheels pulled off! RJ PS. I can't remember where i saw that puller. I did make a drawing of it from memory. It was in one of the lawn tractor sites, about 6 months ago. Maybe somebody here can tell you where to look. Rusty J.   [Reply]  [No Email]