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450dieselfan 02-08-2013 21:43:53 174.124.200.130 Report to Moderator	just bought a 8000 its been sitting outside for 5+ years not stuck. i would like to start it and drive it home sould i be worred about if thier is water in the trans? also would else should i cheak? thanks [Reply]   [No Email]
RodInNS 02-09-2013 10:03:36 216.118.158.123 Report to Moderator	Re: ford 8000 help in reply to 450dieselfan, 02-08-2013 21:43:53   Like showcrop said... I think I'd pull the drains on all of the sumps before starting it... just to drain off whatever water is there and make sure that there is some oil in it... I'd not worry about it being up to spec for a short drive as long as it's safe. Changing the fuel filters and making sure there's a good flow from the tank is also a very good idea so it doesn't quit on the side of the road... Rod [Reply]  [No Email]
showcrop 02-09-2013 05:18:49 75.67.231.80 Report to Moderator	Re: ford 8000 help in reply to 450dieselfan, 02-08-2013 21:43:53   [quote="450dieselfan"](reply to post at 22:43:53 02/08/13) [/quot My 9000 had been in the weeds for seven years. We scrounged a wheel and tire, changed fuel filters and primed it up, put in a battery checked the oil and started it. We then drove it around to the shop, and did a full PM. There will be some water in all the housings. It gets there from condensation. I literally had gallons on my shop floor two weeks ago when the temp jumped twenty degrees in ten minutes. To remove the water, You don't say where you are, so I will assume it is water, not ice, just loosen the drains until water starts to dribble out, and when it changes to oil tighten it back up. You will need to slide the draw bar back to get to the back one. The fuel tank will contain all manner of contamination. There is a drain plug on the left bottom that you can remove to drain until it turns clear. The clear fuel will be good. Be sure as part of the PM to change the oil in the injection pump. Check the radiator for crud/mud. Due to the oil bearing tubes in the front they tend to get blocked. An hydraulic oil change will be advisable, but not until you can circulate the oil some to get it warmed up. A good way to do this is to operate an hydraulic implement for awhile. Moving and heating the oil will enable you to get some crud out with it. It probably has a half inch on the bottom. CHECK THE COOLANT SCAs !! Drain some off see how bad it looks. I strain and reuse half myself. When refilling include treatment. [Reply]  [No Email]