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Pete, do you have a picture in a manual that shows how the clutch disc is installed or can you advise. I also need to know if you change the pressure plate and it's different from the one that you replaced do you need to replace the throw out bearing or the release bearing. If you or someone else could advise it would be greatly appreciated.

You didn't name the model. Look up your model on www.caseih.com, and it will show a diagram. If it has what looks like curved straps, they go toward the rear, not toward the flywheel.The pressure plate should not affect the release bearing, because as far as I know there is only one release bearing for each model but there can be more than one clutch. I am assuming you bought an entire rebuilt clutch. If not you may not be able to mix parts.

Farrell, It would help if we knew what tractor it is. However. I know of no Farmall that has the torsion hub springs in the disk on the flywheel side. The hub offset is always away from the FW.
Most replacements Pressure Plates are very similar in finger height. Adjustment is within the adjustability range. If the clutch has a carbon/graphite release bearing, a ball bearing type is a better option. JimN

Farrell, I'm going to crawl out on a long thin limb, because I think I remember your name when in a discussion about a Super-A. Here's the only pics I have of that process.
Here's my old clutch disc..



...and you can see the 'strap-like things' to which CNKS referred. This side of the disc faces to the rear. That is, the other side goes up against the flywheel.
And here's my old pressure plate...



I went into my clutch because my clutch was slipping badly on a downhill slope. You can see why. My pressure plate was warped, and only the shiny spots were making contact, maybe a shade less than half the surface. The darkened areas are grease/oil/crud, that I could scrape with my fingernail.

What I did was buy a new clutch disc, and a new pressure plate assembly, from IH. I thought maybe it was possible to get the old one 'turned', but decided against it, and as much for wanting to be sure I had new strong springs. It wasn't a good feeling, heading downhill, to have to be thinking about how I was going to 'ditch' off my tractor as it was heading toward the trees. LOL
IH took my old pressure plate assembly, but I can't remember if it was a 'core' thing, or if I took it just to compare, and they threw it away for me. Probably the latter.

Since I had gone to all the trouble of splitting the tractor, (and I'm not saying how long it took me, being my first time, and because Hugh will laugh at me, because he can split his and put it back together in an afternoon), I decided just to get 'new'-everything, including a new throwout bearing. My clutch disc still had a good amount of material on it, but for the cost, why not new? I thought- maybe the materials have gotten more advanced. Maybe not, maybe I got hosed.
But why put 'er all back together only to risk finding the old TO bearing going south in another week?

Here's a pick of my clutch put back together...



..and you can see those 'straps' peeking through toward the rear.

BTW, the new pressure plate from IH came with the clutch fingers already perfectly adjusted to height, and you can see the adjusting studs locked with some yellow stuff. All I had to do was bolt 'er on.

Also, you can see I put on a new ring gear (my old one was pretty bunged-up), and where I messed up. I didn't know there was a lip on the flyweel, and I broke a third of it off getting the old ring gear off, so I just ground off the rest of that lip. A rube mistake. Live and learn. (My best lessons have always been when I screwed up.)

Also BTW, couple of suggestions-
To avoid warping the new pressure plate, tighten those 6 bolts that hold it to the flywheel a little at a time, working your way all around.
Before you put your flywheel back on, think about a new pilot bushing in the end of the crank.
Also, if you get your flywheel refaced, have them do a 2-level facing like this...



...in which the surface on which the pressure plate sits stays the exact distance away from the surface on which the clutch disc sits. Maybe it's overkill, but that way there will be no reduction in designed-pressure of the plate upon the disc.

Any other questions, just fire away.

And if you're not talking about a Super-A, well then, um...never mind! LOL

Farrell, I re-read your post. No, I don't believe you absolutely have to change the TO-
bearing when you change the pressure plate, or the clutch disc with the pressure plate. It's just making sure all three are healthy, and deciding cost/serviceability versus having to go back in anytime soon.

Anybody else have thoughts about this?

Pete: I have probably changed a dozen or more clutches lifetime. I always change disc, pressure plate, release bearing and pilot bushing or bearing. Bear in mind most of my changes have been on working tractors on a busy dairy farm. It was just not worth the chance having to replace any one of those single items at a later date.

It's been my experience that most of those items are very well worn at the same time. Put it this way disc and pressure plate are a must, and release bearing and pilot bushing are not huge percentage of cost.

We hear folks on YT almost weekly having to plane a flywheel. I believe most of that is caused by reusing pressure plates. I have never had to plane a flywheel. I firmly believe a new pressure plate with each clutch disc will prevent that.

And yes, 4-6 hours is about right, big tractors are faster than these offsets.

Excellent write up! Too many times the flywheels dont get turn right, and then someone cant fiqure out why it wont adjust right.Also, Ill add this, NO MATTER WHERE you get the pressure plate, you should always check the finger height.Ive bought a couple from IH that werent set, and some aftermarkets that were.

Amen on checking the adjustment before putting it in. Maybe I've been lucky, every one I've gotten for myself has been good right out of the box. But I've been up underneath a couple of tractors the last few years helpin' guys with just that problem, and there's been a few posts around here lately where that sounds like a possibility. I call it the floppy finger syndrome.

Yep, someone respected on here once made te statement concerning NOT needing to check them. I argued with him about that, and insisted it should be checked, and he rants off on one of his, "Im holier than thou" attitudes, so a week later he came on and appoligized to me since he had gotten one from his famous supplier that wasnt right and had to tear it back down!!

John and Scotty, good point!

Guess there's always the pressure-plate assembly-dude who put the very one you're buying together on a late Friday afternoon within an hour of quitting-time, with his eye on the clock and his mind on a beer and a stogie and his girlfriend!!

Can you please advise how to adjust the fingers on the pressure plate if I can do it myself and what the adjustment needs to be?

Okay, but this all provided you have a Rockford-type clutch cover, which will have six springs in it. IIRC you have a SuperA.

With the pressure plate laying on a good flat surface, the new specs are as follows:

From bench surface to underside of cover: 27/32" (good for a or SuperA)

From bench surface, measuring through the center, to the upper surface of each finger: 2-23/64". For an A, it's 2-3/8" (1/64" more).

What's more important than the actual measurement, at least in evaluating where you stand, is the uniformity of your measurements. The stem end of a vernier or slide caliper can be locked down to give you a fixed point of reference.

The adjustment is made by turning the bolts (you'll have to loosen the jam nuts) at the outside end of each clutch finger. Move the first one until you get the cover within a 64th of where it should be from the surface. Then do the other two and recheck all around and adjust as necessary to get them even. Next check the height of your fingers. If they're uniform, that's a good start, but count on them being out by more than the pressure plate -- with the leverage they might be off by an 8th of an inch or more. Not a cause for alarm -- that's why you have a freeplay adjustment.

There is some latitude to be had, though I can't find a service limit/wear spec in any of the books I have.

Measure up and let us know what you find and we can go from there.

Best thing to do is to buy a kit, containing the pressure plate, disk, and release and pilot bearings. The one for my 460 was $230 from Hy-Capacity, sold by Steel Wheel Ranch.

You can do as Scotty says, but only if you need to. If you are installing a new, or old, (better new) pressure plate, just measure the height of the levers from the housing surface (with the clutch installed on the flywheel), and adjust the one that is off to the same height as the other two, not likely all three will be off on a new plate. The finger to release bearing clearance is supposed to be set with the clutch linkage, not the fingers. Mess with the fingers only if you cannot get the clutch to release properly -- and it probably won't do any good then (been there, tried that) The main thing is to make sure the fingers are at the same height from the pressure plate, or have exactly the same clearance from the release bearing.

Thanks for the information. The problem that I'm haviing is that every time I engage the clutch it grinds and won't go in gear. I adjusted it yesterday and finally got it where it would go in gear but, everytime it went into gear it would start rolling with me. I, then adjusted it some more and it started right back doing the same thing. I went as far as I could with both adjustments and it didn't seem to help. I know I have the clutch disc in right and the pressure plate. There's no play in the clutch pedal even before and after adjustment.

Hi If you feel there is a need to adjust the 'fingers' every clutch pressure plate has specific settings. Yes you can get away with "thats about right" but it isn't. This was under discussion a while back and someone kindly gave me the correct settings for my M, (H I already had) So if you wish to obtain the correct setting then I'm sure that someone on this forum has a blue book with the info relevant to your specific clutch. THEN you start from the correct point. New plates are very unlikely to need adjustment but still worth a five minute check, don't want to split it again in a couple of weeks. MTF

You just touched off the warning lamp.

Yours is the case that sounds as if you might have the friction disc in backwards. (Apologies, it's only been a couple of days but I feel like I've been talking about clutches for a coupla weeks - but then that's my fault for bein' so accursedly long-winded!)

With what you've described again, you have either a reversed friction disc, a badly bent clutch release yoke/fork, or a clutch cover out of adjustment. Hate to be the Bad News Bubba, but the best way to sort that all out is with a split and check it all out.

Thanks Scotty. I was afraid that would be the situation. I've been thingking the same thing as in break down. I appreciate the information.