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timing advance for my 300

1

1958johndeere620

Member
What would be a good advance to run in my 300
thats stock except a 12 volt coil and electronic
ignition? I set it by ear and checked with a gun.
Right around 30 degrees at 680 rpm and maybe near
36 or so at high idle 1960 rpm's. I use it for a
toy, pull it in the stock pulls. Looking for peak
power. I had a chance a few years back to dyno it
with stock ignition. Rated 39 hp then.
 
If your advance is in reasonable condition you should have very little advance at low idle and like other poster said, 22 degrees before top dead center at full throttle. Set static timing(engine not running) at top dead center and then if dist is good you should hit the 22 at full throttle. The important part is the 22 for good engine performance and engine life. The low idle timing will just make the engine sound crappy if it cannot be adjusted to close to top dead center.
 
Huh, thats funny. If its retarded that much, nothing at idle and 22 at high idle then the idle sounds labored. I had run it by ear back and forth at idle and got it to where it sounded happy. I checked it at idle and it was at the 3rd line on the pulley mark which in the book says thats 30degrees ( the kero setting ). I could put it back some, but it doesn't really sound happy there, and I am sure the power would be down too. Thanks for the advice.
 
Engines always sound like they are running much more free with timing over advanced and no load. That is why ear timing is not the correct thing to do. You might possibly have timing marks that are off as that is not unheard of but that is pretty easy to tell by observing piston through spark plug hole.
 
I will pull #1 plug and see if TDC mark is correct. If it is I will back it off some and do it by light to factory specs. For sure not getting any timing knock as is.
 
I also believe you need to check the marks on the pulley. One way to really be accurate is to make a piston stop out of a spark plug. Gut a used plug for the engine, leaving only the shell.
Find a piece of steel rod that fits in the shell and braze it in place sticking out an inch or so. Round the end of the rod into a dome (not accurate or polished, just not sharp edged). Screw it into #1 plug hole (all other plugs out)(with the piston going up, stroke does not matter) Using a hand crank, !!!not the starter!!! roll the engine till the piston touches the rod and stop. Mark the pulley at the pointer. Turn the engine backward (using the fan belt) till the piston touches the rod softly from the other direction. Mark the pulley there. Now use a tape measure to divide the two marks giving a very real TDC. Jim
 
Two different answers to your question. You are asking what to set time for the most power and getting answers for IH setting. IH didn't set those engines for total power. They set them to last all day with the throttle pulled back and plowing or other heavy work.
Depending on use, fuel grade, cooling, and fuel mixture setting you may get by with a higher time.
Some tractors have 4 timing notches. If you have 4 and count TDC as one. The 3rd notch is 22 degrees. If 3 notches the 3rd is 30 like you posted.
 
No long work for this tractor. Just pulling with the antique stock club. I wish I could tune it on a dyno, but no one around here has one. Not really worth paying big bucks to go to a shop for a dyno run. The club used to have one, but don't bring it to the pulls anymore. Thanks everyone for the input.
 
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