Right Side, Left Side, Steering Problem.

The weather has warmed enough for me to do a little work on my IH 340 utility. The steering has been giving me fits all winter. I have everything pertaining to the steering linkage tight and right. I adjusted the steering gear box the way it should be according to the manual. But still am having problems. Here is what happens. Having the steering wheel in the center position and both front wheels aimed straight ahead. When I move the steering wheel to the left just enough to make the left wheel move a little. The right hand wheel will jump to the left quite a bit. Then when I do the same moving the steering wheel to the right just a little the right hand wheel will jump back to the center position. When I back the tractor up both front wheels will toe in pretty bad and kind of dead along fighting each other. I have to be turning just a little so the wheels stop fighting each other. What in the heck is going on?

All new tie rod ends and spindle bushings should fix it.

(quoted from post at 16:00:14 03/10/15)
All new tie rod ends and spindle bushings should fix it.

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It doesn't need the rod ends or bushings. Everything is tight and right where that is concerned.

How is the axle center pivot?

I agree, check the center pivot for forward/reverse play. Enough play from wear could cause the problem.

(quoted from post at 17:08:29 03/10/15) How is the axle center pivot?

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That seems to be tight.
I know it's hard for anyone to see what I'm seeing. Writing a description of what's going on is tough. After thinking about this some more, I have noticed that the steering gear box has been opened up in the past. there is silicone gasket goop sticking out of the covers. I did fail to mention that this is a power steering unit I'm working with. I only need to move the steering wheel less than one degree to the left to make the right hand wheel move about ten degrees to the left. The left hand wheel will only move about one degree, which I think is correct. It's the behavior of the right hand wheel that's giving me fits.

Question, are the steering arms moving at the gear box when this right wheel moves that much or is the spindle moving inside of the steering arm up front. If the steering arm at the box is moving that far you have problems in the box. If spindle is moving in front steering arm that tells you the arm is loose on spindle. Just jack up front end and start shaking things around.

(quoted from post at 17:54:17 03/10/15) Question, are the steering arms moving at the gear box when this right wheel moves that much or is the spindle moving inside of the steering arm up front. If the steering arm at the box is moving that far you have problems in the box. If spindle is moving in front steering arm that tells you the arm is loose on spindle. Just jack up front end and start shaking things around.

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It has to be in the gear box. All other things are as they should be. There is absolutely no play anywhere else. But what in the gear box is causing this? And what do I heed to do to correct this? Or is there something going on with the power part of the steering?

If you look in the dictionary for odd mechanical problems you'll see my picture. Nothing ever seems to be simple anymore.

Also, thanks for any help you kind people have given me. It's nice to have some else to bounce ideas around with.

I would GUESS? that you might have a gear in the
gearbox that is really worn in one spot. On an M
this happened to me and I was able to re position
the gear and get perfect steering again. Good
Luck, Ellis

As a long time owner of a 340U, I would be willing
to bet it's wear in the gearbox. The power assist
steering helps to cover it, but the steering gear
box is under a big load on those models. Its much
less of an issue in the Farmall models. I think
it's geometry issue. If anyone wants to question
that statement just try driving a utility model
300 or 340 that doesn't have power steering. You
can tell those models by foot prints on the
dashboard where the operator braced his foot to
help turn the wheel.

(quoted from post at 19:20:03 03/10/15) I would GUESS? that you might have a gear in the
gearbox that is really worn in one spot. On an M
this happened to me and I was able to re position
the gear and get perfect steering again. Good
Luck, Ellis

Click to expand...

That might be worth trying. But which wheel is turning in the correct way? The left wheel that moves 1 degree when I move the steering wheel one degree. Or the right hand wheel that will move 10 degrees when I move the steering wheel 1 degree?
I just though of something to add. When I move the steering wheel 1 degree to the left the right wheel moves 10 degrees to the left. When I move the steering wheel to the right again the right one will jump back to center, and if I continue to steer to the right both wheels will move in unison. I'm starting to confuse myself with this. I'll run it through the pastes sometime tomorrow, and maybe take some pictures.

(quoted from post at 08:45:28 03/10/15)

(quoted from post at 16:00:14 03/10/15)
All new tie rod ends and spindle bushings should fix it.

Click to expand...

It doesn't need the rod ends or bushings. Everything is tight and right where that is concerned.

Click to expand...

Jack up the front axle so the front wheels are both clear of the ground and then check for play in the spindle bushings and tie rods. Either there is excessive wear, or something is broken. Maybe the main axle tube is broken at the center pivot?

I think you have either a broken tooth in the gear box on the right output shaft, or possibly a loose spline on one or the other box to arm spline. From going straight ahead with wheels aligned, stop. measure from the edge of the inner brake pedal to the rear drag link socket. Write it down. Then measure from the clutch pedal edge to the left drag link socket. Write it down. (they will be different, but it doesn't matter)
Now backup so the wheels go wonkey.
Measure again on each side. The side with the most change will be the side with a broken spline or broken tooth, or broken worn key . Jim

(quoted from post at 00:56:24 03/11/15) As a long time owner of a 340U, I would be willing
to bet it's wear in the gearbox. The power assist
steering helps to cover it, but the steering gear
box is under a big load on those models. Its much
less of an issue in the Farmall models. I think
it's geometry issue. If anyone wants to question
that statement just try driving a utility model
300 or 340 that doesn't have power steering. You
can tell those models by foot prints on the
dashboard where the operator braced his foot to
help turn the wheel.

Click to expand...

I know what you mean. I tried turning the wheels when the engine wasn't running and had to give up. According to the repair manual the 340 Utility uses the same gear box for manual steering and power steering. Why anyone would buy one of these without power steering is beyond me. You'd have to have a steering wheel three foot in diameter to steer the darn thing.

(quoted from post at 01:49:04 03/13/15) I think you have either a broken tooth in the gear box on the right output shaft, or possibly a loose spline on one or the other box to arm spline. From going straight ahead with wheels aligned, stop. measure from the edge of the inner brake pedal to the rear drag link socket. Write it down. Then measure from the clutch pedal edge to the left drag link socket. Write it down. (they will be different, but it doesn't matter)
Now backup so the wheels go wonkey.
Measure again on each side. The side with the most change will be the side with a broken spline or broken tooth, or broken worn key . Jim

Click to expand...

I know the splines for the steering arms are both good. I've had both steering arms off and had to use a puller to get them to move. These are tapered splines and they fit together really tight. I've come to the conclusion that I'm going to live with this problem until I can find a steering gear box for a replacement. I'm done fooling around with it.

While I've had good weather to work on it I've been fixing up other things on the tractor. I have been hearing a knocking sound coming for the engine since I bought the tractor. I tracked it down to the upper end and thought that there might be a stuck tappet . I removed the rocker cover and checked the clearances on all the rockers. They were all okay. That made me scratch my head. I put things back together and listened to the engine again using the garden hose as a stethoscope. I finally found the noise. There is a leak in the exhaust manifold in the center ports. What brought my attention to this, other than the sound, was the exhaust soot all over the engine block. DUH, how I missed that before is a puzzle. I'm also replacing the gas gauge. That has been an education too, but I'm sure it's the gauge and not the sending unit. Then I move on to the fast hitch. I'd really like to have the draft lever working. The control valve under the dash has a short lever on it to raise and lower the hitch. I'd like to be able to hook up the draft control linkage to this so I can use the draft lever beside the seat to raise and lower the hitch. Instead of having to bend over and reaching for that short lever. When I do that I can't see the hitch. This makes hooking up to anything nearly impossible.