What Oil Viscosity to Use in A 1957 International Harvester

Commoner#5 · Feb 23, 2015

Curious as the what is recommended for oil
viscosity for a 1957 International Harvester
Model 350 Utility with a C175 engine. My
tractor is in Massachusetts. Recently
purchased it and it is time to change the oil
and filter. My Operators Manual suggests using
SAE-30 for warmer than 80, SAE-20 for 32 to 80,
and SAE-10W for below 32. I realize that oil
has improved since this manual was written in
1957 and would appreciate any thoughts. Just
want to do what is best for the tractor.

cool hand · Feb 23, 2015

I'd use 10w30, that would cover both extremes.

D7fever · Feb 23, 2015

I use 5 W30 in my Farmall 100,year round ,in MA.

Duner Wi · Feb 23, 2015

I have a 350 U that uses 10W30 forever.
Oil pressure holds good pressure when hot and starts good when below 0. I never have to add between changes either.

fastfarmall · Feb 23, 2015

10w-30 is a good viscosity, But i would use IHC low ash engine oil, And you will be covered with the normal zinc rateing also. The The ASAE lowered the zine in. regular car engine oil to almost nothing. Which u You need that in a flat tappet engine, like u have, or a 10w-30 diesel oil would suffice too.

Farmallhal · Feb 23, 2015

I use 15W-40 Rotella in my tractors year around - it is fine for me because I don't have to use them when it is really cold but would probably be fine there as well, Hal.

Jim in Ma. · Feb 23, 2015

I use 15W-40 Rotella in everything from the snowblower to my 1960s loader tractor year round Just north of Boston.

David G · Feb 23, 2015

I run 15W-40 rear round in all of mine, but they are kept in heated storage, would go to a 10W30 Diesel oil if not.

redgems · Feb 23, 2015

I use 30 wt. LOW ASH year round in my 300U and all 9 of my I.H. gassers & L.P.'s
15-40 in my later diesels
Tony

mkirsch · Feb 24, 2015

Low ash isn't as important in the older low-compression pre-1958 4-cylinder engines. It doesn't hurt a thing if you want to use it, but you don't have to go out of your way to get it if you don't have a CaseIH dealer close by. Any good quality engine oil will do just fine, especially since you probably aren't working this tractor to capacity day in and day out.

fastfarmall · Feb 24, 2015

Well i don't think the compression ratio is why the zine [ZDDP,] is so important. Its got more to do with dry starts on the tappets/camshaft. The low ash part of it was if u had a engine that burns oil, it doesn't leave residue on the valve face and stem,and make the valves burn faster. The newer oil is vastly improved except for this one little nich!

Paul A Young · Feb 24, 2015

If you are not planning on plowing with it for days on end, use a good quality 10 W 30 year round.

Commoner#5 · Feb 24, 2015

Thanks for the many replies. I am a rookie to tractor ownership, just purchased this last October. I will look into the 10W-30 and also the Low Ash oil? I really want to do right by this machine. It is a gas engine and runs pretty good as we speak and I want to keep her running well. As I was reviewing my Operators Manual and also Parts Catalog, I can't seem to find any part numbers for the air cleaner? I did locate the oil filter, but no air cleaner. It appears that I might be able to clean what is on my tractor? I have not taken it apart yet, want to have the parts on hand when the job starts. Do I replace the air cleaner, if there is some sort of element, or just clean the screen and air cleaner. Thanks again. And as another note, I will not be using this tractor hours on end, just basic homeowner stuff.

David G · Feb 24, 2015

No need to worry about low ash oil.

rhtx55 · Feb 24, 2015

It's an oil bath air cleaner, remove the bottom cup, clean & replace with fresh oil.

Commoner#5 · Feb 24, 2015

Thanks rhtx55, appreciate the quick response.
That is exactly what it looked like in the
Operators Manual and there did not seem to be a
part number for a filter or element. I will clean
up the air cleaner area, remove the bottom cup and
clean everything. After putting back together I
will add fresh oil the same as the engine to the
cup. Seems fairly basic, I did not want to be
missing something. Thanks again.

gene bender · Feb 24, 2015

Any 10-30 will work fine.

rhtx55 · Feb 24, 2015

When you get a chance and have access to safety kleen style parts washer, take the entire air cleaner off the tractor, take off the bottom cup & top & stick the assembly into a parts washer bin & & wash the "brillo pad" looking mesh out top to bottom flow, let it run until it comes clean, then turn it over & wash the other way until it runs clean as well. Blow dry with compressed air, let it sit overnight & dry again with compressed air. Put it back together, put it on the tractor & re-install the new cup & fresh oil.
Yours may be fine, but I have had an H & a previous F300 that you would not believe the dirt & gunk that came out of each of them.

Commoner#5 · Feb 24, 2015

Great thought, I will talk with a friend of my who
is a mechanic, maybe he has a parts washer?
Sounds like a wonderful way to be sure it is
clean. It looks pretty dirty looking into the air
cleaner so I can only imagine. Do I need to
replace the cup? Or just clean it in the parts
washer. Thanks again.

fastfarmall · Feb 24, 2015

You can take that air cleaner jar or bonnet off, the top and look from the top down with a flashlight and see the dirt. You can push a lot of that dirt out the bottom !

rhtx55 · Feb 24, 2015

(quoted from post at 18:02:55 02/24/15) Great thought, I will talk with a friend of my who
is a mechanic, maybe he has a parts washer?
Sounds like a wonderful way to be sure it is
clean. It looks pretty dirty looking into the air
cleaner so I can only imagine. Do I need to
replace the cup? Or just clean it in the parts
washer. Thanks again.

No, the cup will be fine, just clean it.

Farmallhal · Feb 25, 2015

On my Super C tractor the cup had rust through holes which were plugged with the crud in the cup bottom. Leaked about I filled it until I found the holes, Hal.

What Oil Viscosity to Use in A 1957 International Harvester

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