Need your opinion on SC Farmall engine

I've miked each of the four wet sleeve>z
At top of ring travel, each mikes at: 3.127
At bottom of ring travel: 3.126
At bottom of sleeve, beyond ring travel: 3.1255

Are these sleeves suitable for re-installation without honing if I go back with standard size rings?

OR

Should I have a machine shop hone them out and then buy over-sized rings? If the answer is yes, what size should they be requested to go for?
 
Original diameter was 3.125, looks like they are ok to me, provided there are no deep scratches in the sleeves. However with it disassembled as far as it is, I would get new 3.25 sleeves, pistons, and rings, maybe stepped head pistons or fire craters. I think weberstractorworks.com has OEM firecraters.
 
I agree with CNKS The wear is reasonable and with the ridge removed at the top of the wear, and a bead type glaze break, it will run for a long long time. New rings with the gap set for the bottom of the ring travel. Jim
 
i just redid my sc motor, all i did was put in new rod bearings, honed the cylenders, and put in new rings after i found the right rings. ive got 3.250 flathead pistons

charlie runs like a top with very little blow by
bass
53superC
 
Just hone the walls and then new rings unless you want more power then go to 3 1/4 IF you have the block. Last price quoted was 53 a hole for sleeves,pistons and rings but you need the block that will take them. Those were hi-dome RED POWER.
 
So, if I have them honed out to say 3.130, can I still use the existing pistons with oversized rings? I plan to use new bearings for wrist, rod and mains.
 
Just bust the glaze and go with standard rings . You should pull the crank if you are replacing the inserts. Can you get rings 2thous over.
 
You don't need to remove .003" when you hone the sleeves, just enough to break the glaze and put a crosshatch on the cylinder walls, which will only be .0005-.001" Just use standard rings. The ring gap will probably be on the upper end of the specified range, maybe a little over, but you can't get perfect in a worn cylinder. If that concerns you, then spend the money and get a whole new rebuild kit.
 
I redid a B years ago that doesn't get used much anymore. Some sleeves had .007 -.008 wear. I lightly honed them & put in new rings. Still running fine with no oil use.
 
Not the best practice, Old timers with no money knurled pistons and fit them to an enlarged bore. It is best done when no new parts can be obtained. Few if any oversized pistons are made for IH letter series because they are sleeved engines. Loosening it up .005 will make it very noisy and probably break skirts on the pistons. Jim
 
I must be missing something. With only .0015 wear on the bore diameter, wouldn't there still be a lot of life left on those sleeves? If the tractor is not used heavily, there is probably a lot of years left in those pistons and rings too.

Was the tractor having problems before tear-down? Did a compression check or a leak-down test show any problems?
 
It was running alright when it was parked in the barn where it set for over 20 years. Rats packed clutch solid with sticks. Engine stuck. I'm not trying to make a puller, I just want it running good like it used to do.
 
Just use a hone to break the glazed cylinder walls
then clean the sleeves using a warm soapy cloth. Then dry the sleeves, then coat them with engine oil. Install new standard rings on the pistons and coat them with engine oil. I would measure the rod journals to see if they are worn. Install new bearings and assemble the engine. Hal
 
After the comments received on here, I believe I'll do just that. Plus new piston, crankshaft & main bearings. May have a machine shop shave a couple thousands off the head.
 
Have them check that crankshaft for wear. Buy your bearings from them. I would also install new seals for the sleeves. Clean that area well where the old seals were installed. Use a good
light to see if there's any rust or crud in that
block area under the seals. It may block the coolant flow causing over heating. Hal
 

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