gabeS.

New User
hi guys im new to the forums and have only had dealing with my old Long 360, so the IHC 340 is a new beast to me. however i bought it confident i could work on it. it smoked really bad but pulled great. it was slobbering out of the exhaust that someone had ran up instead of down and under the side like i believe it should be. this is a gas model i believe the engine is what is called a C135. i tore it apart today, removing the the carb, manifold,air cleaner, and valve cover along with pulling the plugs. i also did a compression test and all cylinders have about the same 140lbs so im thinking i don't need a rebuild. i did remove the valve spring that seems to be leaking oil and noticed NO VALVE SEALS. after looking at all of the valves i noticed none of the valves have seals.Maybe it was rebuilt and someone left the seals out? AM I MISSING SOMETHING HERE? I see the valve stem with a metal sleeve around it but no seal on top or anywhere else. Also is there anyplace to order the seals that im pretty sure are missing? thank yall so much
 
IH engines had no seals in that era. They need seals, and the seals can be purchased from NAPA or? to fit the guide and valve stem. Even umbrella seals are better than nothing. If a valve is allowing too much oil to get past the guide, it probably has more than .002" side to side play, and needs a guide, then the valve reseated. Jim
 
SWEET! Thank you so much! you gave me a starting point. is there different size seals (umbrella seals)?
 
It came without factory seals. Usually ok, but they can be added. With 140 compression, it has either IH fire crater pistons or aftermarket stepped head pistons. Original compression would be about 125. If it is a utility it has 28 inch rear rims, muffler can be up or down from the factory. If 36 inch rears (row crop) it think the the muffler is only up. I have seen a few 340's never owned one so take what I just wrote with a few grains of salt.
 
Hi gabeS. Keep the discussion board informed with what u find out,I got a 1961 340 utility [muffler up] i am 2nd owner it smokes the first 5 minutes,or so, but run like a dream,Let me know what u find out as far as seal's helping!!! My 340 motor has never been overhauled !!
 
Yes they fit snugly on the stem and are sized to the stem. They shed excess oil away from the guide. The Perfect Circle style have a teflon wear surface and meter the oil into the guide just right. Jim
 
Gabs you may rebuild the head and the bottom may live a while longer ? Oil pressure wasn't mentioned I like the 340 family as I have several they can be very useful and cheap to operate , these international engines require low ash oil and sounds like you may have found one that didn't get it . I don't won't to be the one to say you have to do something you know how deep your pocket is .
 
Janicholson, is there a tool, to charge the cylinder with air, to take the keepers out, and do it from the top, with out removing the head ?
 
Interesting comment about low ash oil I will do some looking into that as well. I'm gonna see what I can find in town in the morning as far as a parts dealer. May just order a valve rebuild kit. We will see I'll let yall know. Also I'm not sure about oil pressure I don't remember what it was but will check it when I can. Thank allot guys keep it coming every little bit of info helps. :)
 
I have a Farmall 340. I had it completely overhauled about 16-17 years ago. The one part that was hard to find were the 0-rings at the base of the sleaves. I think I eventually got them from a dealer in Tennessee who had NOS. Case-IH did not have them...at least at that time. The 135 engine is an evolution of the engine in Farmall A's, Super C's, etc....just bored out more. I think they used the in the Farmall 340 and in another tractor two but there was not a huge run of these engines. Good luck with the tractor.
 
(quoted from post at 20:08:25 02/08/15) Janicholson, is there a tool, to charge the cylinder with air, to take the keepers out, and do it from the top, with out removing the head ?

You can also remove the spark plug and insert a length of cotton clothes line rope. Use a screwdriver or other tool to push that rope in there good and tight, and then push some more in. This trick will work even if the valves are not sealing up.
 
Okay guys so I went to the Case dealer and told the guy I wanted to maybe add seals to the tractor he kinda argued that it couldn't be done. So after a few minutes I convenced him to try to locate me some that may fit, he looked up the tractor and found a breakdown that showed 8 valve guilds and 8 seals that go on them. I went ahead and ordered them it set me back 45 bucks They should be in today I will let yall know if they fit. He said since the breakdown shows them then they should be on the engine. We will see, 45$ is worth a shot.
 
alright guys so the dealer had the seals delivered yesterday because they never came in last week. So I put them on I think the spark plug boot would have done the exact same thing as these are just a piece of rubber that is tight on the valve stem and moves up and down with it. Oh well 45 bucks hope it helps I did get it all put together but apparently I need to readjust my carb now since I cleanded it and now the float is stuck. Hahahhaa it's always something with me. Lol. Also I found that my tractor is not a ih340 as I thought and was told by the guy I bought it from it is a ih 404. Oh well all's good I will keep everyone informed as to my progress I hope to have it running tomorrow morning after I pull the carb. Thanks for all the advice I can use I can get so keep it coming guys. FINGERS CROSSED IT WONT SMOKE. 😃 Thanks again
 
140 PSI on the compression is phenomenal. If the smoke clears up after a few minutes, I would just run it as-is and not get too worked up over it. It may improve over time as you run it, because the oil may actually be coming up around a gummy ring, even with the phenomenal compression.
 
got it started off of starting fulid just to crank it up carb still out of whack barely any smoke we will see tomorrow though. :wink:
 
Okay got it started and the smoking seems to have stopped for the most part. 45 bucks and I got the seals from case the part # is 386-192r1. Hope this might help someone else in the future.
 

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