H Grinding Going Into 1st or R

FBH44

Well-known Member
1950 "H", have had some problems in past, when I installed the wavy=4-bolt coupling thing in the drive shaft backwards. [And yes, it will fit in backwards...]
Anyway, 4 months ago, the dealer split the tractor, ground the flywheel, put in a reman pressure plate, kept the same clutch plate same thickness and looks just like a new one, kept same thro-out bearing looks buttery smooth and perfect thickness, looks like new one. I have the pedal arm rod adjusted to be 1 1/8" away from the transmission cover. Cannot figure why it has begun to is grind going into 1st or R. Everything ought to be perfect, but after driviing it only 25 miles, with no hard work at all, this morning it grinds bad going into 1st or reverse. Grinds one time, then it will not do it again until shut down, when it will grind bad again.
Stumps me. Any ideas, guys? I'd really appreciate it.
 
(quoted from post at 13:48:48 02/07/15) 1950 "H", have had some problems in past, when I installed the wavy=4-bolt coupling thing in the drive shaft backwards. [And yes, it will fit in backwards...]
Anyway, 4 months ago, the dealer split the tractor, ground the flywheel, put in a reman pressure plate, kept the same clutch plate same thickness and looks just like a new one, kept same thro-out bearing looks buttery smooth and perfect thickness, looks like new one. I have the pedal arm rod adjusted to be 1 1/8" away from the transmission cover. Cannot figure why it has begun to is grind going into 1st or R. Everything ought to be perfect, but after driviing it only 25 miles, with no hard work at all, this morning it grinds bad going into 1st or reverse. Grinds one time, then it will not do it again until shut down, when it will grind bad again.
Stumps me. Any ideas, guys? I'd really appreciate it.

First thought is the clutch is not fully releasing. Are you sure the free travel is correct? Second thought is that maybe you have the incorrect fluid in the trans/rear end. Too light of a lubricant might allow the gears in the trans to just keep spinning?
 
try the free play at 3/4 inch.as long as the fingers are not riding on the brg. when at full throttle it is good.
and also if the flywheel has step it needs to be ground the the same as clutch surface.
 
To get by for the time being (assuming the material in the other responses didn't help) start the tractor with it in gear(fifth) with the clutch down (BE careful). This will free the clutch plate from the Flywheel or plate. Another suggestion is to park it with a block of wood holding the clutch pedal down to prevent sticking. Jim
 
The easiest way to tell if you are getting a good release on the H is to take the plate off underneath behind hydraulic pump. You can reach up and turn the clutch shaft while depressing clutch pedal. Transmission in neutral and engine NOT RUNNING OF COURSE, A good clutch will release well before end of pedal travel. Just one finger being misadjusted will cause your problem or disc not moving feely on the splines. At least you can satisfy yourself if clutch actually releases properly. Like someone else said, just light oil in transmission will make those gears coast a lot longer. A little burnishing of the clutch may also help like suggested. My old '37 ford had to be run up against a tree every once in a while to polish up the clutch.
 
Could be the flywheel is rusting a little and the disc is sticking a little.
 
Not normal for an H clutch to drag for more than a second or two. When you get into the tractors with independent pto and TA that is a totally different matter.
One thing we always did as kids at home on the H if we were in a hurry to shift was to pull the hydraulic lift handle. That puts a load on transmission input and stops it right now.
 
Did they check / replace the pilot bearing in the flywheel ?
Before putting it in First, hold the clutch ALL THE WAY down, and place it into 5th, once it goes into fifth without any grinding, keep the clutch down THEN go into first & reverse.
 

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