Old Farmall Super A

Willmckeel · Jan 4, 2015

My grandad had a Super A when he was living. I've decided I want to try to fix it up to at least working order. Where would be the best place to start? The engine is seized and had water in the cylinders. None of the tires are worth anything and is missing a front rim. The whole thing is pretty rusted up. Is it even worth the time and money? Where could I get rims and tires for it? Any particular advice would be greatly appreciated. I work at a car shop so the mechanical part isn't all that difficult but I don't have any experience with tractors. Thanks

Dalex · Jan 4, 2015

EBAY is full of new and used tractor parts , as
well as tires. Our hosts here on this site have
good quality new parts and fast delivery , give
them a try ....Look at the column on the left side.

DeltaRed · Jan 4, 2015

Yes!!!It is worth fixing...Haveing grandpa's tractor
is priceless! Start with the motor. Take your
time,no hurrys....Work on other smaller stuff as
well.Like waiting for parts/machine work.......Lots
of parts are out there-new;aftermarket;used.....And
lots of help from guys here.BTW,YT is a great place
to buy parts! Good luck with grandpa's tractor!!!!!

DeltaRed · Jan 4, 2015

Old tractors are easy.Easier than cars.Buy a service manual(about 40 bucks).Read,ask us as many questions as you need to. Dive in!

FBH44 · Jan 5, 2015

To keep me inspired fixing up my old H, I would grind and scrape and wire-brush ever so often, and spray on some rusty-metal iron primer, try and get it to where I could actually see progress. It kept me inspired.

El Toro · Jan 5, 2015

That tractor sounds like the Farmall A I bought in 1975. Engine was stuck, needed rims, tires, fenders, wiring, seat and steering wheel.

That engine has wet sleeves I would pull the cylinder head, oil pan and engine. I used a piece of 2 X 2 oak and a big hammer to drive out the sleeves. Some sleeves came out with pistons
and I used a torch to heat the sleeves as I needed the connecting rods for the new sleeve kit.

You can build a sleeve puller like Keith built, but you need the pistons out. I would have the block magna- fluxed for cracks and cleaned. I had the clutch rebuilt too. Buy a good shop manual. Separate the parts as you remove them
and identify on cardboard boxes. Saves a lot of time. Hal

Willmckeel · Jan 5, 2015

Thanks for all the advice. I need to get it on a trailer and bring it to my house and put in the garage so I can work on it when I have time

Willmckeel · Jan 5, 2015

Where is the best place to get a service manual from? Is Amazon.com a good place?

dej(Jed) · Jan 5, 2015

(quoted from post at 20:36:36 01/04/15) My grandad had a Super A when he was living. I've decided I want to try to fix it up to at least working order. Where would be the best place to start? The engine is seized and had water in the cylinders. None of the tires are worth anything and is missing a front rim. The whole thing is pretty rusted up. Is it even worth the time and money? Where could I get rims and tires for it? Any particular advice would be greatly appreciated. I work at a car shop so the mechanical part isn't all that difficult but I don't have any experience with tractors. Thanks

Lots of parts available for the A & SA's. How did it get in such bad shape? Doesn't sound like it was high on his priorities list.

Willmckeel · Jan 5, 2015

My grandad passed away in 1994? Maybe...nobody has looked out for it since

William Eccles - Jardine · Jan 5, 2015

don't over look fastener AND bearing supply houses ( outlets) for
such items as replacement bearings & seals & ALSO bolts and nuts. IHC doesn't have a
monopoly on these AND the prices may be less QUALITY may be
as good or better / many have a seal cover on the new bearings
on them that need to be removed before installation to the
tractor.
I bought very few bearings and seal from IHC because of this
reason. AM HAPPY WITH THE ONES from the supplier.
Keep us informed as to progress from take apart to cleaning to
painting ""O"" by the way check out Vna Sickl Paints on your side
of the border They gave me good advice for paint colours.
Wm.

NoNewParts · Jan 5, 2015

yes, save it
If you work on cars for a living, you will be able to fix that little tractor sitting in a chair watching TV at the same time.

Since it is in rough shape keep a hard $ eye on every sub assembly you are working on.
A/SA's are/were a very popular model.
Like the other posters mentioned, between ebay, yards, auctions,
you could build an entire tractor from good used parts if need be.
Cheaper too in many cases...than trying to repair a part that is just....too far gone

Have to swap out half of the major assemblies?....
don't matter a bit...it's STILL your grandads tractor...enjoy it

El Toro · Jan 5, 2015

Take some pictures during the engine teardown and rebuild. Have the crankshaft measured for wear at your local auto machine shop, also buy the bearings from them. It may only need polishing.

My crankshaft needed .002" undersize bearings and they furnished the new bearings. Hal

DeltaRed · Jan 5, 2015

Buy your service manual right here.YT sells
manuals.....and parts too.

bass · Jan 5, 2015

these tractors are simple to work on. if it was your grandpa's then save it. I missed out when my unckle passed. he had the frist farmall a sold in rusk co, texas after wwii. my mom learned to drive on it and so did i. the woman that my unckle was married to sold to after he passed for $200. the little tractor ran like a top.

keep the tractor in the family

Willmckeel · Jan 5, 2015

What all work should I get done on the engine? I will probably do most of the work myself besides for the machine shop work. Gasket sets? New Pistons, rings, bearings? Head?

khouse6 · Jan 5, 2015

you can buy one running for $1500 or so.

you can put the most of that expense into the engine, when you start to rebuild.

so weigh your options.

Willmckeel · Jan 5, 2015

Thanks! I went to the local tractor supply and bought a shop manual. Will hopefully read into the manual tonight.

El Toro · Jan 5, 2015

Your engine block probably has crud in the area where your sleeve seals are located. Could block the coolant flow. Also clean that area where the new seals are installed. I used an angle drill
with a wire brush. I steam cleaned the engine block too. I had the cylinder head redone and had new valves and guides installed. I pulled the engine found the clutch disc needed rebuilt. I had to place a wooden block under the drawbar so the engine wouldn't tilt backwards. I also unbolted the steering from the block and rolled the steering wheel and front wheels out from under the engine. There are dowels that maybe be a problem getting the engine free. I used a chain hoist and moved the engine block side to side until I had a space to insert a screwdriver to pry the engine off the dowels. I coated them with lubi-plate prior to installing the engine. Hal

Willmckeel · Jan 5, 2015

should I send the block to the machine shop? I have access to a steam pressure washer that has high pressure and really hot water

El Toro · Jan 6, 2015

That should, work we bought one of those when the steam jenny was outlawed. Hal

mkirsch · Jan 6, 2015

You're putting the cart ahead of the horse. On your way home from getting the tractor, stop by that steam cleaner and knock as much rust, crud, and old grease off as you can.

Get it in the garage, and start taking it apart. See what you have before you make a decision on what to do.

Unless you've got a buddy who will do the machine work at cost, the less you have for the machine shop to do, the better it will be. They'll beat the stuck pistons out, but you'll pay for it.

Try to identify tractor salvage yards within a couple hours' driving distance. It will help to have round black tires on the tractor for moving it around, not necessarily new, just round and black. If you can find a used rim at the salvage yard, and score a couple of wore-out 16" motorcycle tires for free from the local bike shop, that's better than any dolly.

Willmckeel · Jan 6, 2015

There aren't too many salvage yards for tractors around here. I know I'm going to have to replace at least 2 rims and four tires. I think I'm going to try dollies to roll it in and out of my garage as need may be for now. But hopefully not for long. I would be paying out my tail for machine work probably. I'll attempt to do as much of the work as possible though. I plan on pulling the motor and driving the sleeves and Pistons out. I'll get the whole engine disassembled then try to send what needs to be sent to the machine shop. What parts would need to be sent? I know the head is going to have to be and probably the crank. What else?

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