I'm having a steering problem on my 1950 Farmall M. The tractor has power steering which seems to be working fine. The tractor also has a loader which I understand would make it a little harder to steer. For some odd reason, the steering has started locking up and it feels like there is binding somewhere in the bolster. When I take the weight off of the front wheels (either by jacking up or using loader), the steering works great. I've noticed about a 1/4" of play up and down in the vertical steering shaft (with sector gear). I've tried tightening the castle nut to try and reduce the up and down play but it seems the gear is as far as it will go on the tapered splines. I've also noticed there is a square key or woodruff key on the tube that travels up and down. When I had the sector gear off and jacked up the front end, this key tore into the felt washer. Why is the key there and how do you remove it? What could be causing the steering to lock up - maybe the mesh between the sector and worm gears? I've also noticed the bearing that goes on the worm gear shaft has lost some ball bearings but still seems to rotate freely.

Time to tear into it and see what is wrong.

Maybe post pics of this key you mentioned.

I rebuilt mine a couple years back, not a real big job.

Case IH has all the parts.

First simple thing to check is to remove the hex cap on the bolster front. Check the bearing on the front of the worm shaft. See if the bearing retaining nut is contacting the inside of cap. If that's not a problem drop the vertical shaft and check the thrust bearing on the shaft that supports the load. With it out you can check all steering parts in bolster. To remove shaft the gear on top needs the nut off and lower bolster removed. Remove the key. That was from when a cultivator shift bracket was used and they left the key. Up and down movement in vertical shaft is normal. Of coarse jack and block tractor up before starting. May take considerable force to get the shaft down out of the sector gear. I like to leave the lower bolster and tires on until the shaft exits the gear. Also easy to hold the bolt heads from spinning when removing the lower bolster after it drops a few inches.

If the bearing is missing balls, replace it. Go with the simple things first, and this is about as simple as it gets with the steering.

That bearing is responsible for keeping the worm and sector gears aligned properly, and if it's missing balls it can't do that.

the missing ball may very well be locking up the gears if it is being moved around and getting in between the gears when steering, like others have suggested its a good time for a rebuild

If the bearing on the worm shaft is missing balls, it's shot. It doesn't matter how well it spins. It's possible that the missing balls from the bearing could have caused some damage to the gears if they got into the wrong place at the wrong time in the gearbox. Look them over very closely. The worm shaft bearing is not a standard radial ball bearing. There are/were two types available from IH/CIH. One (ST225BT or ST225Y) appears similar to a standard ball bearing, the other (ST678) is a heavier multiple-piece bearing. Some may tell you that replacing the worm shaft bearing with a standard ball bearing will be fine, and for fartin' around fairgrounds and in parades, it'll probably do ok, but using the loader and carrying extra weight up front will stress that bearing even more.

The thrust bearing assembly on the vertical shaft can cause binding sensations, too, if it's worn out, pieces are missing/damaged, or is full of dried out grease. With as much play as you say you have, there may be an issue with this bearing.

If the woodruff key is on the vertical shaft behind the removable panel in the bottom of the grille, it is for an arm that was used for steerable cultivators.

AG

The ball bearing at the bottom of the bolster shaft is a likely suspect. The square (likely 1/2 moon or Woodruff) key is from the cultivator steering arm used with check-row planted corn. Take a diagonal cutters & grab one end of the key and pry it out. I ground off the side of my diagonal cutters so it would lay flat on a shaft to get a good bite on any key.

(quoted from post at 23:01:26 12/29/14) I'm having a steering problem . I've also noticed the bearing that goes on the worm gear shaft has lost some ball bearings but still seems to rotate freely.

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There's the problem, replace the bearing.

Replacing that bearing is priority one. it will jamb the steering every time. Be sure to use a deep groove heavy bearing. The same physical size is available and it will not last an hour. Spen the money to buy a bearing from German, Japanese, or USA manufacture, (not packaging, real production. Jim

i replaced the bearing on the worm gear and it definitely helped but did not completely solve the issue. I wiped out all the grease from the steering box - do I fill this back up with JD corn head grease or some other gear oil? I noticed there's a grease fitting on the bolster but it must be plugged as I wasn't able to pump any grease into it. Is that grease zerk going to a tapered bearing inside the bolster? I've been soaking that area (around felt washer) with PB Blaster to see if it helps. It steers easier to the left and hits a hard spot going right.

I have a couple other off-topic questions:

1) I have a IH #16 3 bottom trip plow and was wondering what to use in the trip mechanism gear box? I've tried 85W-140 and it seeps out. Also, two boards are missing the small curved plate that bolts directly above. Where can I buy these parts?

2) I noticed the water pump on the M leaks from the front where the packing nut goes in. Should I try tightening the packing nut or buy a new pump? What are the two grease zerks for on the side of the water pump? I put a few pumps of grease in each to see if that would stop it from leaking but no luck. What is the best source for buying a new water pump and radiator for the M?

The gear box should use a gear lubricant. Something like a SAE 90 or 85W140. If the seals and bushings are good/replaced on both shafts, the gear box should retain the lubricant.

The vertical/bolster shaft thrust bearing is not a tapered bearing. The original style used on earlier tractors was a 3-piece bearing with 2 races and a grouping of balls in a cage between them. The later style is a self-contained thrust ball bearing, and this type can be used to replace the 3-piece bearing. Both styles were made by Aetna for IH.

There's two bushings needed for the vertical/bolster shaft, and the large bottom bushing is usually worn out of round or can even be worn through. The shaft can be worn in the same spot, as well.

It's also possible that a power steering or u-joint issue could give a "hard spot" sensation.


Q. #1: The curved pieces above the moldboards are usually referred to as "coverboards". If they are IH parts, both steel and poly should be available from CIH. I think Wiese is an aftermarket option that has a coverboard available yet with the IH bolt pattern/ bolt size. If your coverboards are part of a complete aftermarket attachment, it may depend on the bolt spacing and bolt size to see if something is still available that will work. Yetter and a few other aftermarket/short line companies made coverboard attachments through the years.

I'm not really familiar with the later bevel gear style mechanical lift gearboxes on plows, so I'll let someone else tackle that one.

Q. #2: Some water pumps are stubborn when it comes to seeping antifreeze. Try tightening the nut. M's need a spanner wrench to tighten/loosen the gland nut. Old packing from IH looks like it was either lead or graphite impregnated, packing available today from CIH appears to be teflon. You can add another piece of packing if you can't tighten the nut any further. Some people use properly sized pump packing from companies such as Garlock, as well. There may be other internal issues, including, but not limited to impeller shaft wear/pitting/damage that can stymie your attempts at sealing it.

Your best bet for ending up with a quality radiator is having your radiator recored. If your tanks are good, your framework isn't damaged or rotten, and you have a trustworthy shop locally that will do the work, I'd recommend this route.

Your least expensive option for a radiator will most likely be an import from China. My best wishes in getting one of these posititioned to allow the sheet metal to fit fairly close while at the same time keep the steering shaft from rubbing where it goes through the top tank. Many, myself included, have experienced fitment and other issues with these radiators.

AG