Thanks to all those who gave suggestions. Took the carb off of my dad's cub and put it on mine. Runs like a sewing machine! So now know it is a carb problem. Soaked mine in a gallon jug of carb cleaner for about an hour, washed and blew it out. Now will idle without choke but air screw is only out about an 1/8 of a turn, and does not run as well as it did with other carb. Should I soak it again, maybe overnight this time? Carb kit maybe? Again thanks for the great advice. Dad and I have 20+ antique tractors and this sight has been a great resource! (latest purchase is a 1948 oliver 60 standard-we like all the colors!)
- Thread starter mpriar
- Start date
notjustair
Well-known Member
You have to tear that thing down to bare bones (even if you have done it 17 times) and clean it good. Soak it for a day or two once it is apart. There is a passageway or two that is partially blocked. Soaking it with it together isn't doing any good. The stuff that is (possibly) coming loose cannot get through the small holes so it is staying in there. I've had a couple that I wasn't thorough enough the first time and needed to do again to be satisfied.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Soaking for an hour is not enough you need to soak one over night if not longer. Then you need a small wire or as I use a torch tip cleaner tool to pole out all the passage ways and a can or 2 of spray carb cleaner and air. you spray out the passage ways poke them out blow them out then spray them out again.
rustred
Well-known Member
when soaking completely disassembled, agitate it periodically. meaning have it in the proper strainer and just give it some up and down movement in the bucket or container. the old agitaters were hooked to air and did this in a 5 gal bucket. then after a wash in cool water when blowing out with air make sure you can see all passages are free. if you give a passage a shot of air you can see where the air comes out, thats if you dont have it completly dry. even if you give a little shot of wd40 you can see where it shots out with air. everybody worries about carb kit but soaking in carb cleaner is the thing that does it. you can always make gaskets.
I burn the paper off a twister seal, wipe clean the very, very small, soft, flexible wire inside and use that to clean out carburetor passages. Now I need to devise a non-messy way to set my gallon of carb cleaner inside my vibratory cleaner intended for cleaning brass cartridge cases. Agree with others, longer soaking is needed. Sometimes there are rubber-like gaskets that you want to keep out of the cleaner though because they may expand. Then sometimes there are gaskets, mostly cork-like, that will shrink if let dry out. While soaking the carburetor I keep them in a shallow little pan of gasoline or diesel fuel - in a safe place of course. The trick is knowing which gasket has which characteristic! That's what makes this hobby fun!
Carburetor work can be frustrating the first few times through. You'll pull the thing apart 9 times only to find the real problem on the 10th try.
It gets better as you learn though. Eventually you'll be able to dismantle and reassemble one blindfolded, and have the tractor run perfectly.
It gets better as you learn though. Eventually you'll be able to dismantle and reassemble one blindfolded, and have the tractor run perfectly.
Jim Becker
Well-known Member
Most of the aftermarket carb kits for the Cub are real junk. They cause more problems than they cure. Most don't even come with the right instructions. Last I knew, the only decent ones came from CaseIH, McDonald Carburetor and Steiners.
Jim Becker
Well-known Member
My first post of this comment doesn't seem to appear in "Modern View". If you don't know who the S company is, check classic view.
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